Srs. Some have preferences but to play like its a huge hassle is just reaching to be "right"

The gain is to help get the turbo up to speed faster. Holds the wastegate closed till the last second. Typically causes over boost.
This is easy to combat with a good ems.

 

So fast spool? Which all honda EMS's have

 

Yea but only the " stand alone ebc" controllers work right /shodan


Unless we can see some real time data logs proving which is better its all preference

 

There is now a much more affordable AMS 500 V2 and another one I am looking at called Boost Leash that get the job done at 500 bux. I am strongly considering going with the Boost Leash and the CO2 set-up.

AMS-500 V2

Boost Leash Boost Controller

 

Boost controller is only as good as the wastegate setup, and I think the general consensus about boost controllers has changed in the recent years. The turbo manifolds / knowledge in WG priority / better turbos (turbine/comp ratios) have made it much easier to control boost nowadays.

Most of the time now, I just use whatever is available for the car really. They all seem to work, from ECTune, Hondata S300, K-Pro, Haltech, Cobb, etc.. with a good turbo setup they all work great.

With larger turbo setups and extreme temperature ranges (+/- 40 deg C of change) or turbos literally maxed out, it is nice to have something easily tunable on the fly like an APEXi AVCR or Turbosmart E-boost. On a few of my cars that have turbos maxed out, the closed loop control just isn't aggressive enough to compensate for big changes regardless of system and still be consistent at the same time.

So multiple boost modes on a boost controller is simpler for those situations (e.g. my Supra and Camry have E-Boost-2 controllers). Say it's a hot humid night, I do a very quick squirt to verify boost. If it over-boosts or under-boosts, I just hit up the next level up or vice versa. That is in fact, way easier than busting up the laptop to make changes.

 

Since Hondata refuses to give us closed-loop boost correction, I usually setup a switch between two target tables for boost-vs-RPM-vs-gear depending on temperature/conditions. The lack of PWM temperature compensation in K-Pro is a HUGE pain.

 

Yeah I saw that too when I was looking at a friends Kpro tune. Makes zero sense to me

eCtune has closed loop but I dont use it because I;m lazy. The IAT correction table is good enough once its dialed in.

Technically you could have 3 presets. Off (Wastegate), low (for cold weather overboost situations or traction), High (for Kill)

 

In 2021 what's the go to electronic boost controller??

 

Seems that BBG and EMS controlled boost is the flavor of the times now.

 

I actually want to get rid of my BBG setup and just switch to a standalone boost controller separate from the EMS.

 

I'd probably stick with a golden oldie like the Greddy Profec, or HKS EVC.

 

what ems are you using currently?

 

True.
But also depends upon the purpose. Even time attack / circuit drivers will use independent control unless they have it mapped via GPS through the EMS to control boost levels, which some are learning to do.

 

I use to have a old greddy profec spec b. I loved the simplicity of it.

Hondata s300

Yeah I'd prefer to have a low boost/hi boost switch along with a adjustable know to set boost pressure in between both settings as well depending on my driving situation. I've looked at the never Greddy and HKS units but I think I'd prefer the older Greddy Profec Spec B II unit.

 

Whats the budget for a new boost controller

 

I'd say $600 roughly depending what features it has etc.

 

I'm actually eyeballing the new generation EVC myself.

 

oof thats a nice budget.. i would upgrade the ems personally and unlock a lot more features all around

 

they looks pretty fancy lol

Full standalone I assume? I see lots of people jumping on the Haltech Elite and FuelTech platforms. I'm not well versed enough to know which would benefit me more for just my little street car.

 

Those are both great options. You can even find used aem v2 for around 800 most times.

600 is a big budget for just a controller. I dont think any boost controller would outperform a decent ems.

 

I got the P1000 Haltech with most of the same features as the Elite (Just didn't want to spend the extra amount, really). BUT, I'd still keep the Profec Controller and use the Haltech for some of the other stuff like the Meth/water control, anti-lag, etc.

The newer Profec that was released a few years ago is actually quite nice!! Even has a logic feature that "learns" when the gain should be automatically set in..

 

yeah with OEM honda parts becoming more scare I've seen a steady rise in the cost of finding OBD1 chippable ECU's by the time you source an OEM ecu and purchase Hondata S300 with all the upgrades you are almost near $1000. May as well spend a few more dollars and just upgrade to a full standalone at that point. Wouldn't say I have a budget anymore with this car lol. More so what I'm willing to spend at that very moment depending how mad I am at the car haha.

Never heard of that Haltech model. Does Haltech have rolling anti-lag? Did you notice any gains power wise from just switching to a full standalone? I've heard people say going from Neptune or Crome or s300 to a full standalone the car made more power on the dyno and just drives better with nothing changed overall. The new profec does look interesting i'll have to do more research on it. A learning feature does sound pretty dope though.

 

This, lol.

 

Youre current budget of 600 plus what you can get for selling your s300 you have a nice amount of options.
Yes actual ems give a lot more resolution in every aspect.

 

Which EMS would you run? What do you currently run on your setup?