Lets cut to the chase on Real Clutches!
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Lets cut to the chase on Real Clutches!
Hello fellow honda-tech members,
I have read numerous threads and topics on clutches. From "Oh I want a stock clutch feeling" to "I don't want to get twin disc because its not street friendly". I am tired of reading all these pointless clutch threads. So here is my argument / question.
I have a boosted b16 making 400hp 220tq. It is my daily driver, weekend warrior, and my drag/track star. I had a Competition Clutch stage4 sprung regular plate. It held fine for a year. I've been pretty satisfied with it for street use but it just doesn't shift in High REVS. I could care less if a clutch pedal is too stiff , or if engagement is harsh, I can deal with my legs being sore, But I absolutely cannot deal with not being able to shift into gears in high rpm's. No one has really gone over this in any of the threads I've read.
My last day at the track, my first run, I burn out, get ready for the pre-load, lights, GO, launchs fine, no slipping, I get to 9500 rpms no problem, I shift and it just doesn't want to go in, Finally i get it in, 2nd gear 9.5k here I come again, I shift and it doesnt want to go in again. The clutch doesn't want to disengage.
2nd run, same thing, 3rd time down the track it finally completely lets me down. I go down the track missing 2nd and 3rd and finally after trying for 4th, it won't go into any other gear at all. NON. IT absolutely will not disengage. So I shut my car off, and it smoothly goes into all gears. simple test, I put it in first with car shut off. and then tried starting it and the car starts moving forward. Figured out the clutch wont disengage. Drove home that day driving without the clutch, oh and was that fun.
I am looking into getting another clutch, I will be daily driving it and racing it.
I want to know :
-What clutch will handle 300+ tq / 400+hp
-What clutch will hold Rpm's , also shift smoothly in high Rpm's.
-Street Friendly as in won't be chirping off every signal or stop sign.
-I don't care if clutch pedal is going to be stiff, I got hobbit feet, and Reggie legs.
-Want something that will last long.
Would like feedback from people with good and bad experiences with a certain clutch, what symptoms, how long it lasted, and if it was worth every penny.
Thanks for anyone who puts there 2 cents into my hat.
I have read numerous threads and topics on clutches. From "Oh I want a stock clutch feeling" to "I don't want to get twin disc because its not street friendly". I am tired of reading all these pointless clutch threads. So here is my argument / question.
I have a boosted b16 making 400hp 220tq. It is my daily driver, weekend warrior, and my drag/track star. I had a Competition Clutch stage4 sprung regular plate. It held fine for a year. I've been pretty satisfied with it for street use but it just doesn't shift in High REVS. I could care less if a clutch pedal is too stiff , or if engagement is harsh, I can deal with my legs being sore, But I absolutely cannot deal with not being able to shift into gears in high rpm's. No one has really gone over this in any of the threads I've read.
My last day at the track, my first run, I burn out, get ready for the pre-load, lights, GO, launchs fine, no slipping, I get to 9500 rpms no problem, I shift and it just doesn't want to go in, Finally i get it in, 2nd gear 9.5k here I come again, I shift and it doesnt want to go in again. The clutch doesn't want to disengage.
2nd run, same thing, 3rd time down the track it finally completely lets me down. I go down the track missing 2nd and 3rd and finally after trying for 4th, it won't go into any other gear at all. NON. IT absolutely will not disengage. So I shut my car off, and it smoothly goes into all gears. simple test, I put it in first with car shut off. and then tried starting it and the car starts moving forward. Figured out the clutch wont disengage. Drove home that day driving without the clutch, oh and was that fun.
I am looking into getting another clutch, I will be daily driving it and racing it.
I want to know :
-What clutch will handle 300+ tq / 400+hp
-What clutch will hold Rpm's , also shift smoothly in high Rpm's.
-Street Friendly as in won't be chirping off every signal or stop sign.
-I don't care if clutch pedal is going to be stiff, I got hobbit feet, and Reggie legs.
-Want something that will last long.
Would like feedback from people with good and bad experiences with a certain clutch, what symptoms, how long it lasted, and if it was worth every penny.
Thanks for anyone who puts there 2 cents into my hat.
#2
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Re: Lets cut to the chase on Real Clutches!
I drive a Mk2 CRX, started out with a B16 and then onto a B18 (both turbo).
I'm running the cable box so pedal will always be heavy for me.
B16 300/220
1st clutch was ACT street xtreme, great on road and circuits, very good at drag strip on drag radials, lasted 23k.
2nd clutch ACT 6 puck sprung extreme, lasted 5k with a mix of above driving, absolutely killed the friction materials, I put this down to street use.
B18 380/270
1st clutch ACT 6 puck sprung extreme, lasted 4k, with mix of above driving, street miles killed the friction material, plus this time it damaged my flywheel and cover plate.
2nd clutch, don't ask it lasted less than 2k
3rd clutch replaced disc and cover with ACT 6 puck sprung extreme and it's dying
I'm at a total loss, like you I read all these so called success stories people have and I'm unsure.
YES, I would go twin disc IF I could find someone that makes one for a cable box that won't involve me selling a kidney.
I use my car on the road, circuit and drag so one clutch must suffice, I'm talking with SPEC (David), as well as some local clutch specialist.
I'm running the cable box so pedal will always be heavy for me.
B16 300/220
1st clutch was ACT street xtreme, great on road and circuits, very good at drag strip on drag radials, lasted 23k.
2nd clutch ACT 6 puck sprung extreme, lasted 5k with a mix of above driving, absolutely killed the friction materials, I put this down to street use.
B18 380/270
1st clutch ACT 6 puck sprung extreme, lasted 4k, with mix of above driving, street miles killed the friction material, plus this time it damaged my flywheel and cover plate.
2nd clutch, don't ask it lasted less than 2k
3rd clutch replaced disc and cover with ACT 6 puck sprung extreme and it's dying
I'm at a total loss, like you I read all these so called success stories people have and I'm unsure.
YES, I would go twin disc IF I could find someone that makes one for a cable box that won't involve me selling a kidney.
I use my car on the road, circuit and drag so one clutch must suffice, I'm talking with SPEC (David), as well as some local clutch specialist.
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Re: Lets cut to the chase on Real Clutches!
Cost
My Cable box already has a Quaife ATB and steel caged bearings installed.
If I swap for hydro I loose a front mount, meaning, I have to buy stiffer mounts.
I don’t have the room for a hydraulic set up, new pedal box, master and slave cylinders and associated mounts and pipes, so it will be a hydro conversion which will remain cable but with one less mount at the front.
No doubt at some stage I may have to bite the bullet and install a hydro and fabricate a new front mount for it but for now I would just settle for a half decent clutch that does the jobs I need.
My Cable box already has a Quaife ATB and steel caged bearings installed.
If I swap for hydro I loose a front mount, meaning, I have to buy stiffer mounts.
I don’t have the room for a hydraulic set up, new pedal box, master and slave cylinders and associated mounts and pipes, so it will be a hydro conversion which will remain cable but with one less mount at the front.
No doubt at some stage I may have to bite the bullet and install a hydro and fabricate a new front mount for it but for now I would just settle for a half decent clutch that does the jobs I need.
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#7
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Re: Lets cut to the chase on Real Clutches!
that is an internal transmission problem. Check the amount of travel the clutch release fork is traveling and shift selector fork / assy. I had a problem like that 4 years ago but can't remember how I fixed it. Not a clutch problem
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#8
Re: Lets cut to the chase on Real Clutches!
Im running a CC stage 4 unsprung in by allmotor b18 and i rev to 9k all the time no problems. Transmission is fully rebuilt with new sleeves, carbon synchros and new gears.
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Re: Lets cut to the chase on Real Clutches!
I have a comp stage 5 with upgraded presure plate. It does chirp but it will hold the power for sure.
My friends S2K had the same issue, the presure plate broke on his car and that is what caused it.
My friends S2K had the same issue, the presure plate broke on his car and that is what caused it.
#10
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Re: Lets cut to the chase on Real Clutches!
As to the original poster, ask a few shops what they recommended or use. There gonna have the most experience, but just might not want to bash other companies publicly. I'd suggest an Exedy clutch all day, then ACT would be a second choice.
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Re: Lets cut to the chase on Real Clutches!
I had a CC stage 4 and a CC stage 5 with upgraded clutch. I held power fine on the street. BUT, at the track it was a different story. Had a 450whp gsr spinning to 9.5k, one it would not shift and two clutch did not last more then a month. Transmission was brand new, nothing used in it. Motor had 2k miles on it. Worst single disc I personnally owned. I switched to a exedy twin disc and very first pass I ran a 11.0 with no problems shifting. No one I know that uses CC races their car every weekend like I do. I dd my car with the twin disc and race it every weekend with no issues.
As far as single disc clutch, I had luck with clutch masters stage 4 I have in my brother's car. He makes 375whp on his b16 and has no issues shifting.
As far as single disc clutch, I had luck with clutch masters stage 4 I have in my brother's car. He makes 375whp on his b16 and has no issues shifting.
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Re: Lets cut to the chase on Real Clutches!
I had a CC stage 4 and a CC stage 5 with upgraded clutch. I held power fine on the street. BUT, at the track it was a different story. Had a 450whp gsr spinning to 9.5k, one it would not shift and two clutch did not last more then a month. Transmission was brand new, nothing used in it. Motor had 2k miles on it. Worst single disc I personnally owned. I switched to a exedy twin disc and very first pass I ran a 11.0 with no problems shifting. No one I know that uses CC races their car every weekend like I do. I dd my car with the twin disc and race it every weekend with no issues.
As far as single disc clutch, I had luck with clutch masters stage 4 I have in my brother's car. He makes 375whp on his b16 and has no issues shifting.
As far as single disc clutch, I had luck with clutch masters stage 4 I have in my brother's car. He makes 375whp on his b16 and has no issues shifting.
Same here, held great on the street, on and off clutch daily no problems, just doesn't like the track or fast/hard shifting.
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