I just checked out a type s engine. Did a leakdown on it with results 20% in cyl. 1,2 and 4. Cyl 3 wax leaking 40%. Now, i would like to know if these are decent numbers, mind you, the engine is not sitting in a car and not a normal operating temperature. test was done with engine sitting on the ground. Im guessing the valve seals are fully expanded.

Also, there was an oil stain on the cardboard the engine was sitting on. Looked under the engine and saw (what i think) a chip where the tranny casing meets the block. The chip is on the tranny side and goes through the casing (oil leaking). What could have caused this?

please help out
thanks

 

help?

 

either way you look at it, 40% is not good. Try to find out where it's leaking at so you have a better idea of how bad the problem is.

 

The chip is prolly from when the idiot thieves dropped it while taking out of the 'donor' car.

Bad leakdown is likely a result of their driving when they stole it.

 

40% is not good but if you perform the leak down test on cyl 3 with pistons a TDC, you can find the leak. Simply use shop air and with that cyl being pressurized, listen at the muffler for air(exhaust valve), intake manifold(intake valve), or the dip stick or oil cap for possible rings.

 

could the numbers be low because the engine wasnt nearly close to being at full operating temperature (ie. valve seals NOT expanded might cause leak?)

anyways, gonna open up the oil pan and see what i could find.

Anybody else?
Thanks

Ps. if the motor is fucked, can i get my money back from the POS who sold it to me like by going to the cops or something?

 

How about you talk to the POS who sold you the motor and let them know how things stand right now? See what they have to say about it... they might be a reputable POS, with the best of intentions.

 

thanks
i will obviously try that first, but im just a little frustrated right now you know. Its not fun getting F***** over when you work hard for you money and have plans for the summer and then lose everything.

appreciating everyones help.

 

Yeah, I can understand the initial gut reaction of dropping a few thousand and then not having everything be perfect. Just take a deep breath, stuff happens, and approach them in a calm manner w/ the benefit of a doubt. I'd let them know how things are now, and see if they feel comfortable with you popping the engine open before they see it for themselves.

I'd also bring the engine up to full operating temperature before doing a leakdown test... I'd worry about the rings/pistons/bores being up to temp. A valve stem seal is rubber/nitrile which isn't affected by heat quite as much as metal is.

 

is there something i can do without openeing the engine? Like pulling out the spark plugs, and rotating the crank. How should the crank rotate if im using a wrench at the crank pulley, smoothly, free flowing, no noise, no resistance?

I tried turning it with the spark plugs in but at some points of rotation, it turns smoothly but at other points, it turns with quite a bit of resistance.

Thanks

 

I wish i could get it to operating temp but i cant, the engine is sitting on my garage floor.

 

You don't have to get it up to operating temperature to get a good leakdown test. In fact, I do all my leakdowns when the engine is cold.

The purpose of a leakdow in addition to checking the overall condition of the motor is to locate where the leak is occurring at if there is one.

What I suggest you do is, pressurize the cylinder with the 40% leak and check ex., int, oil cap, etc, and find out where the leak is most notable.

 

and what about the hole in the tranny casing?

 

So, for a cold engine, 20% could be normal since its in 3 cyl. but the 40% is a little off so probably not normal right? Ill check for leaks with the 3rd cylinder.

Thanks Mac.

Any ideas on tranny casing with a hole at the bottom?