Post up your K-series catch cans. I dont want to see a catch can that is environment friendly, im looking for the high boosted applications.

I plan on a basic catch can from the valve cover, but want to see other ideas before i weld on my catch can fittings.

I plan on using -10an line to a box where the battery goes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HickamHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Post up your K-series catch cans. I dont want to see a catch can that is environment friendly, im looking for the high boosted applications.

I plan on a basic catch can from the valve cover, but want to see other ideas before i weld on my catch can fittings.

I plan on using -10an line to a box where the battery goes.
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Your planning isn't good. You wont catch anything from the valve cover unlike b-series. If you want a performing catch can setup you have to hook up a vented catch can to the PCV valve and cap the intake manifold off.

 

Your best bet for an effective catch can set up is the T1 Race Development set up

http://www.t1raceparts.com/category_s/1.htm

And it comes off the valve cover and drains back into the block

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
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on your website there are 6 ports on the catch can but in this one below there are only 4 ports
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
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i was planning to buy one of your catch cans but don't know where to route the other 2 to the back of the block. do you guys have better pics of the kseries setup?

 

We can build the cans with any inlet/outlet configuration. That particular can was specific to that application, the customer wanted 4 -12 bungs. I can do it however you want.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">We can build the cans with any inlet/outlet configuration. That particular can was specific to that application, the customer wanted 4 -12 bungs. I can do it however you want. </TD></TR></TABLE>

did you know y he choose not to reroute it to the back of the block?

 

I have built a couple for myself and friends.

I made Tanners catch can on his red hatch. I'm sure you seen it Tony. I ran that on my old hatch before I sold everything on it.

I do like the idea of the -12an lines more than the -10an. I know that I want to route it just like that hatch has it, inline with the pcv and on the back of the valve cover. Just wanted more ideas

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HKSuperSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

did you know y he choose not to reroute it to the back of the block?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't remember that my K20 has those ports on the back of the block.

 

Would a good drain be to go to the oil pan kind of like a turbo return line?

 

yea i wasn't so sure if the k's have those two ports on the back of the block. i can't check mine cause its at a shop.

 

Well, I decided to go all 10an, just need my hose and fittings!

 

I would imagine the hose and fittings are the bulk of the cost, so why not just buy bigger bungs/outlet?Like 12AN

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HKSuperSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

did you know y he choose not to reroute it to the back of the block?</TD></TR></TABLE>


Not everyone wants the dirty, contaminated oil draining back into their pan and recirculating through their engine. You don't need (or want) a drain-back unless it's puking profuse amounts of oil into the can.

 

a quart in a quarter mile is not rare on a big power setup...

 

T1 can and be done with it

 

have one similar to t1

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Legion &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not everyone wants the dirty, contaminated oil draining back into their pan and recirculating through their engine. You don't need (or want) a drain-back unless it's puking profuse amounts of oil into the can.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i used to think the same thing but i got sick of that damn thing filling up so fast, i mean like 1 day! i discussed it with a friend and we came to the conclusion that the oil in the can is only milky cause it sits there being exposed to all the cc fumes, but if you drain it back right away it should stay clean, i added a -10 to th bottom of my can and tee'd it to one of my block ports and no more full can and my oil is still clean

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HickamHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">have one similar to t1 </TD></TR></TABLE>

post that **** up man

i'm not so sure yet but i might run a moroso http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku

but if i have more funds than i might run the t1 can and try to figure out how to drain it back to the block (if its possible but i doubt it) on a k24a4 block.