porofek

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys. I originally posted in the JRSC thread (and have made some progress since then) but decided I should put this in my own thread. So before I begin here's my setup:

B18C5
JR 3.8 Snout
JR 5.95 Crank
MVM Stepper Pulley
LHT Intercooler with heat exchanger
Ported S-Tube
68mm Throttle Body
Walbro 255 FP
AEM fuel rail + FPR
DeatschWerks 1000cc
P28 + Hondata S300 v3
Hondata 4-bar MAP Sensor
BKR7E w/ .035" gap
NGK HE64 Premium Wires

I am using a basemap that is tuned for JRSC on 440cc and stock MAP at 7lbs. I've adjusted those parameters accordingly in my ECU since I'm using Hondata 4-bar and 1000cc injectors on my setup. Before installing the BKR7E plugs I would get a crank no start. However, after switching over to the BKR7E (from NGK PFR7G Laser Platinums) and gapped them to .035", I was able to get the car to start twice (in 12 or so tries) by pumping the gas pedal. When it did start though, the RPM was erratic and would die immediately if I didn't held steady on the gas pedal. Even doing so, it was very tricky and the slightest gas press shot the RPM way too high for my liking so I let off the gas and it just dies (doesn't even idle). It was very hard to balance the gas pedal to keep the car running without revving it too high. Do you guys think I'm not getting enough fuel or air? Tuning issues?

Things to note is that I did not calibrate my TPS since my 68mm throttle body did not come with one so I got a used one on there. Also, I haven't tried cleaning my IACV (though I didn't have idle issues before I did the JRSC install). Could these guys be contributing to the erratic RPMs? I will post an update after I get the TPS calibrated and clean the IACV for kicks. And one last thing is that my car hasn't been started for about 3 months now until today (if you count the few seconds the car ran for before it died). Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

BADBIDDY

I'm gonna go with the tune being off. Even just using the Hondata's injector scaling does always work. You will need to put in your injector dead time parameters - potentially even increasing / decreasing the cracking fuel percentages. Best bet would be to reach out to a local tuner to get a basemap / towed to their establishment to have it fully tuned.

porofek

iTrader: (1)

(I have this same post in another thread in the ITR forum but I feel this thread is more appropriate for the problem I am facing now....)

So I figured out the issue and finally got my car running! For awhile when I was trying to diagnose my crank-no-start issue I had on Deatschwerks 1000cc injectors. During this time I verified everything: injector pulse, fuel pressure, spark, grounds, TPS / MAP plugs are plugged in correctly ... all that jazz. I decided I should slowly put back stock components to diagnose the issue. First thing I did was put back stock injectors and stock ECU. I zip tied my bypass valve to make sure car will not see boost. No luck. I gave up (since it's been over a month diagnosing) and decided to take a break for a week or two. This past Monday my buddy came over and he had me check my spark. I was pretty adamant that I had spark (since I confirmed this about a month ago). We did our test and no spark. So we removed my dizzy and put it in his car (since we know his car will fire up) and his car wouldn't start so we know that something in my dizzy was bad. He took out the ignition coil from his dizzy and put it in mines and voila, his car started. So I run off to buy a new ignition coil. We put that into my dizzy and sure enough my car fired up. Finally! Now I can move forward with my build.

After successfully firing up my car on stock injectors and new ignition coil, it was time to put back the DW 1000cc injectors in. We calibrated my ECU to compensate for the new size. After getting them on, the car would not start. WTF! We tried to slowly add fuel but the car would just not start with these guys. So we thought about it and I had a hard time getting them in (I experienced this the first time I put them in three months earlier). I had to gently tap the fuel rail with a rubber mallet so that the rail would properly mount over the manifold studs and I can tighten them down. By doing so I believe the force is pushing the injectors too far inside the fuel rail? These injectors are brand new and I did check that I had pulse when I used injector clips. I tried spraying in starter fluid and the car started but it immediately died and could not hold idle. So it must be the injectors aren't able to deliver fuel because it's getting kinked?

So now I either have to find a way to get them seated properly or sell them off and try to get something closer to stock form (physically) like RCs? It's very disappointing since I spent a pretty penny on them and they aren't working out for me. I know it's not the clips and it has to be the injectors since I had to force them in. I'd like to try to make them work and I don't want to go with a different brand only to be faced with the same problem.

Has anyone ran into this issue with DW injectors on a b-series? Anyone have any suggestions?


PS I am currently back on stock injectors, fuel map is adjusted and car starts up fine.

JRCivic1

Are you saying you are using a stock GSR basemap in your s300 with stock fuel injectors and it starts up and runs fine ???

porofek

iTrader: (1)

Hey JRCivic1. We initially started with a GSR basemap and my buddy calibrated it so that the AFR will be at 14.7 at idle as well as making sure it's stable when it revs up a bit. I drove the car around the block but the AFR fluctuated quite a bit when stopping and letting off the gas pedal when it's in gear. There was a lot of white smoke coming out after driving around the block so I decided it was best to let the car sit for now until the fuel map is calibrated a bit more. Idle is really high though at around ~1400 rpm and I was told I needed to adjust the screw on the bottom of the throttle body to bring it down (we have the idle setting really low in s300). I just picked up a set of RC 750's so I'm going to run with those for now and get the fuel map calibrated for that. I still have a couple of parts I need to install before I take it to a tuner. I'll probably worry about the DW's when I decide to go E85.