Batoutahell

The hondata installation last night went very smoothly, but tuning didn’t go so well. We tried a dozen base maps and variations with no success. The car runs very rough and will stall if I do not monitor the throttle at a stoplight. I can smell how rich it is running. The latest map(s) that we tried set vtec around 4400. When I reach that rpm, the car acts just like it’s hitting a rev limiter, shaking violently and not revving any higher. If we set vtec higher or lower, it has the same reaction at that given rpm.

We tried 2 hondata ecu’s with the same result. When we plugged in my factory ecu (without hondata) just to see what happened, the car ran like a champ (well, as well as you would expect a factory ecu to run with 440cc injectors and a supercharger).

Here’s my car: 2000 type r, s200 with boost, P28, RC 440cc’s, jrsc with 5psi pulley, intake, kami, carsound, 3” thermal, walbro (jr) fuel pump. We removed the jr fpr and my base fuel pressure is about 60psi. We also reconnected the factory map sensor (I had a 2 bar installed before). I believe the vtec cam is programmed right now to activate above 950 (approx.) millibar.

If anyone has suggestions on what we can check tonight, I’ll pass them on to my tuner/installer. THANKS

COLORPROS

back your fuel pressure up to 40 to 42.60 PSI is to much...And your factory map should work to a little over 11lbs so that shouldnt be a problem.Do you have a fjo a/f meter?

sharkcohen

My first guess would be that your fuel pressure is way too high. You should consider trying the stock fuel pump. There is no reason to be running anything more than stock pressure with your setup. What did your a/f look like when it bogged out on you?

Batoutahell

As far as fuel pressure, will swapping out the Walbro for the stock fuel pump lower the fuel pressure back to normal? I did bring my stock fuel pump to the shop last night, but my installer didn't seem too concerned about removing the high flow unit. The only fpr I have on the car at the moment is the 1:1 stock unit on the fuel rail.

We are going to hook a wideband o2 sensor on the car tonight and drive around with the datalogger attached.

COLORPROS

why dont you just use a FPR to lower.You need the supply of the walbro or should I say the volume but you just need to cap some of the pressure with a FPR

ekb18c

Sounds lke you are runnign too rich, bump that fuel down . I'm not talking about fuel presure either.

Use the the laptop

Batoutahell

Update: we solved the studder problem that felt like I was hitting a rev limiter. It turns out we forgot to relocate the map sensor to the manifold, and one the of map sensor wires may have been exposed and grounding out intermittently.

Now I have another problem, and it's a strange one. 50% of the time, the car now runs great and pull strong and smooth, so the fuel mapping feels really good (I'll verify with the wideband sensor soon). The other 50% of the time, it runs extremely rough, so bad that it stalls at idle. We can’t explain what causes it to run good or bad, it’s pretty arbitrary.

Another weird symptom is that sometimes when I turn the key to the on position, all the under-hood relays flicker rapidly on-off-on-off, and the engine cooling fans turn on-off-on-off in rapid succession. The noise of all the various relays throwing and the fans spinning on/off is real disturbing. It really feels like a faulty wire connection, but that’s just my guess.

The wire harness at my ecu is pretty butchered over the years, and perhaps there’s a bad ground or something in all the splices. In the past I’ve had a J&S, BTC, v-afc, and the Unichip spliced at various places into the harness. If all else fails, I may have to bite the bullet and buy a new harness at the ecu.