Posting for a friend, we are having issues getting his built d16z6. I will let him post engine specs and info later.

Right now we are having trouble getting the car to hold a steady idle. The car is being tuned on Hondata S300. We have tried a couple different iacv's, with no luck, and haven't found any vacuum leaks. The only other thing we have yet to explore is the tps is fluctuating at idle on S300, and isnt responsive on hondata.

Trying to get everything prepped for a proper tuner, but dont want them fixing a bunch of problems.

 

i have the same problem. my idle fluctuates while the car is rolling and when cold. in for info.

 

Thanks for the post eric.

Let me know what info/specs that are needed...hopefully we can get to the solution

 

Bump for some help

 

I guess nobody else knows...damn im screwed lol.

 

If the TB has the FITV it can cause that, sometimes it has to be blocked off. even the IAC on my car i had to block off due to never ending idle problems, it runs great now.

 

No fitv. Has a BDL throttle body if im not mistaken, mated to an Edelbrock intake manifold.

The manifold is missing 2 nuts due to the casting

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97grnrs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If the TB has the FITV it can cause that, sometimes it has to be blocked off. even the IAC on my car i had to block off due to never ending idle problems, it runs great now. </TD></TR></TABLE>

What do you mean by you had to block it off?...you bypassed it?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The Destroyer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No fitv. Has a BDL throttle body if im not mistaken, mated to an Edelbrock intake manifold.

The manifold is missing 2 nuts due to the casting</TD></TR></TABLE>

Correct.

BDL 68mm TB &gt; Edelbrock Performer X manifold. For some odd reason you can fit 2 nuts on the inner 2 bolts of the manifold (which im sure is causing a slight leak) although I doubt causing enough to make this erratic idle.

 

Specs for the head/block are as follows:

Head: Comp 59300 Cam
Crower Valves/Valvesprings/Retainers
BDL Throttle Body
Edelbrock Performer X IM
Cometic MLS headgasket w/ ARP Headstuds

Block: CP Pistons STD bore 9.0:1
Eagle Rods w/ ARP rod bolts
Benson Crank
ACL Bearings

Please let me know if you need any further info...


Modified by 1995Civic at 6:38 PM 9/15/2008

 

yes. completely bypassed and set idle manully with idle screw and my ecu, i always had a bit of a fluctuating idle and i did everything known to man to stop it so i gave up and bypassed it. works fine. been like that for a long time

 

Im wondering how that would run w/o the IACV...wouldnt it stall out down the road and not be able to keep a constant speed?

Are you running s300?

 

If I was to take a guess, it would be the cam that is an issue, unless you dialed in the idle AFR's. FWIW I have a 60mm D16 TB, and at 60mm those TB's have spaces between the bearings and butterfly, causing a 1200rpm idle with a stock ECU. In other words, a small leak can cause a big idle flucuation. When I tried ectune on it (very good IACV control) it can do about 775rpm idle. I don't want to say S300 is crap, but if it looks like a duck and walks like a duck, it usually IS a duck.

The procedure for setting idle is to unplug IACV when engine is warm, use idle screw to hit a 400rpm idle, reset ecu, then plug in IACV. You might have to do that with S300. I know you have to with Crome, but ectune has enough control where you don't need to.

 

What do you think the problem is with the cam? Adjusting the actually cam timing?

A/F ratio was set to 14.4 at idle, however it was still fluctuating pretty bad. The idle would jump to about 1500 and then back down to about 300 (roughly) and it would do that continuously until it just cut.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rota92 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would also say it's a leak. Spray some soapy water and see how much it bubbles up for ya.

And on the IAC, the car will run fine so long as you adjust the idle screw depending on weather. My car always ran fine, from 40 degree weather to 110, just had to tune the idle with the screw a bit here and there.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

When you say a leak, where are you thinking it may be?

Also, you just bypassed the IAC w/ Hondata?...do you have to constantly adjust the idle screw every time the weather changes? lol

 

Oh i gotcha...I have the BDL 68mm TB and there is a place for it, but I'm being told the only way you can NOT run it is by bypassing it (deleting it) on Hondata or some other program.

I'm really thinking the leak is coming from there as well...i dont know how it's not possible to get those nuts on there, but they wont go on