I have searched and only found one faint answer. I just bought a set of used ARP head studs and I didn't get the instructions with them. Can someone put and end to this topic. The question is "How do I install head studs?" How much do they need to be torqued? Thanks guys.

 

Not really a FI topic, but to my knowledge, you'll need to clean them very well, then apply their moly lube to the bottom threads, and screw them finger tight into the block (after you've cleaned the threads in the block). They don't get torqued down.

I'm probably wrong, but when I disassembled my engine in the fall, my ARP studs came right out with my fingers.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C_EJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not really a FI topic, but to my knowledge, you'll need to clean them very well, then apply their moly lube to the bottom threads, and screw them finger tight into the block (after you've cleaned the threads in the block). They don't get torqued down.

I'm probably wrong, but when I disassembled my engine in the fall, my ARP studs came right out with my fingers.</TD></TR></TABLE>


This is rather correct. Though you do not need ARP moly lube on the threads going into the block. The moly lube is to get a accurate torque reading when you torque down the head (prevents friction to get more accurate torque setting). You simply thread them in block with your hands until hand tight and pop your head gasket on, head on, and bolt down. Just make sure you put moly lube on the top threads where the nuts go BEFORE putting your head on obviously.

 

Torques as per ARP.

Torque the unts to 70 ft lbs for ARP MOLY ASSEMBLY LUBE or torque to 85 ft lbs with 30wt motor oil. ( I take them all to 50 ft lbs then to 70 ft lbs). Follow the factory torque sequence!

I highly recommend you use ARP MOLY ASSEMBLY LUBE due to the higher friction on the studs as well as inconsistecies in the clamping force of the fasterners when motor oil is used.

Also clean of the washers and nuts and studs with solvent before you install it as they come with a protective coating from the factory.

Be sure to coat the thread real good on the stud and run the nut up and down it three times. to spread it real good

Also be sure to coat both sides of the washer with lube.

 

do you even need to remove the head to install head studs?
i mean if your not replacing the head gasket, can't you just take the stock ones out and replace them w/ the ARP's?

 

You can do it but its not recommended. The first time i changed mine i did it this way and i never had any problems.

Loosen one head bolt remove it and replace it with a stud. Then torque the stud down to the factory recommendation. Then remove a second bolt and so on. Do this in the factory torque sequence. ONce you have all the studs in torque them down to what ARP recommends (70 ft lbs) This allows your head gasket to keep its seal cause if you brake the seal you will have to remove the head.

 

Thanks guys. I posted this in FI because I figured that more people use head studs with boost setups rather than all motor. Thanks again.

 

Make sure you replaced your head gasket...do it right the first time...