<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D-booster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

7 or 9 psi?.....you can do that with out a block guard

4th gear 19psi and a bad tune= priceless

lets think about this a bit..why would your engine blow on fourth gear and not other gears? maybe because your engine is exposed to a BAD tune longer?....An engine built for 300..400.500hp should handle what ever psi it takes to make that hp if its tuned right. Engines will almost always last for the first 3 gears on slightly bad tune but 4th gear pull will own you. Take a factory Evo or Wrx Sti and smash on it on 4th or even 5th gear they will not blow and they don't have aftermarket sleeves </TD></TR></TABLE>Who said I blew my motor in 4th gear? The damn sleeve gave way and crack..idiot. I don't know what the previous owner(s) of my motor did or didn't do with it. Don't be too quick to assume **** that I had a bad tune. **** do break down no matter what kind of tune you have. Think before you open your big mouth next time!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by powerofdreams8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They CAN be warped while the engine is apart. Don't give advice if you don't know what the hell you're talking about.</TD></TR></TABLE>


lol you'd be the one to talk. WTF are you talking about? Dont you say stupid **** unless there's common sense to back it up.

If you wanna get technical YES they can be warped but it's gonna take a lot more than tapping in a block guard to do it.

 

Ive got a z6 block over at Apex machine.... we'll see how the GE d-series blockguard goes. I'm expecting good things, because it fit in very well in an unmodified format. I'll post up a review once I push about 15lbs on a stock z6 block... with ge blockguard and vitara replacement pistons.

 

I've got a blockguard in my z6 and never had any problems. No overheating or anything negative from it. It's an older design too with not that many coolant passages compared the the GE or other brands.

 

I'd say get it welded...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NVturbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Who said I blew my motor in 4th gear? The damn sleeve gave way and crack..idiot. I don't know what the previous owner(s) of my motor did or didn't do with it. Don't be too quick to assume **** that I had a bad tune. **** do break down no matter what kind of tune you have. Think before you open your big mouth next time! </TD></TR></TABLE>

You cracked the sleeve b/c of too much boost. Blockguards are only meant for 12-15psi (max). When used properly, they tend to do a pretty good job. And before you start saying how wrong I am, read below. Info taken from Golden Eagle FAQ's page.

A block guard is a piece of billet 6061-T6 aluminum that is cut to fit around the cylinders to brace the sleeves and help protect against sleeve walk and sleeve cracking. This is a great inexpensive way to strengthen your bottom end, but if you want to boost more than 15 psi, we highly suggest sleeving your block with our Goldzilla sleeves.

 

just go align hone it and you'll be aight.

 

BLock gaurd are poo eh and they warp cyclinders eh right

Ive installed a few and brought 2 to my machine shop and they checked the bores before and after and they did not move at all.

Only way thet move is when idoits take a big punch and wack the things in there like as far as they will go.

 

What kind of block gaurd is it cause GE has holes in it and u can use a screw and some pliers and pull it out evenly. Or use a rad hose 90 pick to pull up on it

 

whamp whamp whamp.... stock sleves = and if blockguards sucked, i wouldnt be runing 22 psi daily for about a year now... i have a race eng. block guard, i put it in myslef and just got my block bored and honed after i instaled it... so far so good... got a few customers runing around with block guard making 15 psi on stock sleves, and also holding up

 

I put a block gaurd in my b16a2, then mic'd the bore to find out that they had ovaled on me with out a lot of pressure. It might have worked but i am **** about these things so i sent it off to Earl for the works (see sig)

 

Click the pics Bottom pic is an example of a bad design.

 

^^^I don't get that. Why would I file the blockguard and let the cylinders flex? The whole point of getting a block guard is to stop the cylinder flex that causes headgaskets to blow.

Plus I don't really trust anyone who has Vin Diesel for an avatar

 

I explain the whole thing in the pic.It allows the sleeve to flex(A good thing) but not much(A good thing). You grind the inside of the block guard so that it doesnt touch the cylinder sleeves.I keep it at about 0.20 of a gap all the way around.Allowing the sleeves to flex a minute amount.This keeps the cylinder sleeves from distorting or going out of round.Just tapping in a block guard with a hammer and welding it in will cause cylinder distortion and cause the sleeve to crack down the middle if it cant flex alittle.Let it flex just slightly will help eliminate sleeve shifting and stress.After your done grinding and fitting tack weld it in on the outside of the block guard only. Its always better to get the engine sleeved but if you cant afford it this is the best way to do it. If you tap in a block gaurd and weld it you will have to have the bore machined and honed.The way I do it eliminates it.Say you build an engine have it honed then decide to go turbo and use a block guard.Instead of getting the damn thing machined again just do it this way.Also only use a scalloped design(allows for max coolant flow)

Oh yeah by the way I dont trust anyone with a Noob avatar.


Modified by Clone at 10:09 PM 5/19/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Clone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh yeah by the way I dont trust anyone with a Noob avatar.
Modified by Clone at 10:09 PM 5/19/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>


Oh, lol, so you came back and added that zinger! BTW, I am also Quagmire. I was banned for getting drunk and mouthing off a few weeks ago in the general discussion forum.

I was just thinking, if the guard doesn't actually touch the sleeves then there might be cooling issues... I don't know. When I send my motor to Earl I'll see what he says.

 

I basicaly dropped mine in place and took the punch and taped it lightly in place. Not one head gasket popped and no over heating issues also. I would rather crack a sleeve then blow a chunk of it away causeing damage to ur head piston and more. I find that ever motor ive seen with blown sleeves could of just been a cranked sleeve and alot of money saved. My .02 cents from my experience

 

I agree Id rather crack a sleeve than have a chunk of it ruin my motor.But Id also like to avoid cracking a sleeve and avoid having a chunk break off.You should get the block guard welded in as it can vibrate and sink into the water jacket causing major cooling problems.Also to the guy that said grinding the block gaurd so that it doesnt actually touch the cylinder cause cooling issues.Think about it grinding the inside of the block will increase cooling.Gap = more coolant flow less restriction.You can be just fine tapping in the block guard.Block guard might seem fine but until you torque the head down you dont know.You might not have cooling issues or head gasket issues but you might have lost power due to out of round cylinders causing bad ring seal.Then again everything could have been fine.Tapping it in just sets yourself up for potential problems.

 

That's an interesting installation method...

But, do you really need to weld it in so many spots? I mean, what is the advantage of welding every spot your pic over just welding 4 spots? I'm just thinking in terms of how much it will cost to have a machine shop do this for me.

Do the sleeves really move or flex? I didn't think they did. I thought the point of a block guard was to mimic a closed-deck design and hold the sleeves from shifting and cracking.

Is the way you described the way GE instructs to install their block guard?

 

Remove the block guard ...they are a waste of time, money, and are not needed.

 

No golden suggest's getting it welded in and then machined.This method is if you already have your pistons in and want to use a block gaurd without having to get it machined.Was is it? People dont understand what they read? Read it again Ive been rewording my sentances so that people understand.Im not being rude but alot of people on HT have poor reading comprehension.
I believe using a block gaurd keeps the sleeves in one piece in the event that it cracks.Better to crack than have chunks going in the cylinder because no block guard was installed.

 

A block guard is a piece of billet 6061-T6 aluminum that is cut to fit around the cylinders to brace the sleeves and help protect against sleeve walk and sleeve cracking. This is a great inexpensive way to strengthen your bottom end, but if you want to boost more than 15 psi, we highly suggest sleeving your block with our Goldzilla sleeves.


how could they say that when boost isnt relative , its horsepower or tq,

 

This thread is teh suck....blockgaurds are ghey. Spend the money on a tune and be happy.

&lt;--366 whp on stock sleeves @ 17 PSI with no silly *** block gaurd.

 

Okay, the retards that are saying "blockguards are gay" need to provide useful info or shutup.


And obviously GE is going to spew some bullshit about the relativity of PSI because they want to sell their sleeves. If people knew that you could run 20psi on a blockguard then nobody would buy the godzilla sleeves.


And block guards aren't a waste of time or money. Those things are almost given away, so it's not a waste of money. And my motor is being built already, so throwing in a blockguard in while it's apart is not a waste of time either.

 

It looks to me as if the guy that said block guards are gay is speaking from real life experience, so what else do you want? I said they are not needed as well and that is from real life experience.

Show me proof where they are useful, I bet you can't. They are simply put, not needed. Just look around at the amount of people putting down big numbers with stock sleeves and no blockguard.

To each his own.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Junglesnake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It looks to me as if the guy that said block guards are gay is speaking from real life experience, so what else do you want? I said they are not needed as well and that is from real life experience.

Show me proof where they are useful, I bet you can't. They are simply put, not needed. Just look around at the amount of people putting down big numbers with stock sleeves and no blockguard.

To each his own.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Amen to that