This is continued from another topic https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1453299

This might be helpful for some

EDIT-- i used the J&S diagram for the bypass


Well I got the ignitor bypass finished…..it didn’t take to long and I spent about 35 bux just in parts

The project box


preppin the box…..i added some spacers to the box to bring the board up ..also added a plastic grommet…and some mounting tabs as well



here is the pcb with the main wires attached



the board with a few components




the underside of the pcb



board all done minus the ztx857 it was installed along the side of the box…with thermal paste…i used the box as a heatsink




finished product




I will be installing this tomorrow in my GSR-T….with a msd 6a, blaster SS coil, and msd modified cap..



Modified by lucidvtec at 3:13 PM 12/10/2005

 

looks clean man, make sure you post of the final install. If you mount it in the engine bay make sure you seal that box up with some silicone

 

there is no room in my motor bay.....i'm gonna have to move some stuff around...i will be done with the install tomarrow night...i'll post with the results soon

 

do you have a parts list for this bypass setup? I fried 5 igniters and one distributor in one month using the msd 6a and blaster 2 coil

 

Looks great... PM sent...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rudebwoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you have a parts list for this bypass setup? I fried 5 igniters and one distributor in one month using the msd 6a and blaster 2 coil</TD></TR></TABLE>

you've got other issues if you f#$@ed up 5 ignitors in a month...send the 6a box back.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rudebwoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you have a parts list for this bypass setup? </TD></TR></TABLE>


So?

 

here is the link for the diagram

http://www.pgmfi.org/twiki/bin...ement

parts list::

2 - 1k 1/4watt Resistor

1 - 4.7k 1/4watt Resistor

1- 2n2222 npn transistor

1 - ztx857 high power npn transistor

1 - blank circuit board

1 - project box...i used metal so i would not to use a heatsink

1 - thermal paste


u can get all the parts from http://www.digikey.com

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lucidvtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">here is the link for the diagram

http://www.pgmfi.org/twiki/bin...ement

parts list::

2 - 1k 1/4watt Resistor

1 - 4.7k 1/4watt Resistor

1- 2n2222 npn transistor

1 - ztx857 high power npn transistor

1 - blank circuit board

1 - project box...i used metal so i would not to use a heatsink

1 - thermal paste


u can get all the parts from http://www.digikey.com

</TD></TR></TABLE>

did you install the box yet?

 

So basically you built a fast acting solid state relay right?

 

ok....i installed everything
it started up the first time and idled perfect

for about 3 minutes

then died...

no fuses were blown

perfect install...i will post pix soon

car still wont run...i took out the bypass box and the 6a wired it back to the external coil
still nothing

is it possible my ECU "p72" got fawked up
no check engine lights and the hondata lights up ok

just no spark

i'm gonna replace the whole dizzy asap...hopefully i can drive my car

 

bump....help me out...........how could i tell if my ecu is good....i think the ignition might have been screwed up

 

ttt

 

rut roh, good luck man!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lucidvtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bump....help me out...........how could i tell if my ecu is good....i think the ignition might have been screwed up</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh ****, thats not good.

I thought that a code 1 is a faulty ECU.

 

car seems fine....no spark....no check engine lights....light is soild on the my hondata....car turns over fine...just won't start

 

i thought i didn't need this anymore


bypass box mounted on firewall


finished...msd amp where the main wiring harness should go....coil is by the radiator can....bypass is on the firewall


i wish it still worked....the msd box was used..but from a good source..it could have went bad...or maybe my ecu ign. output..or tach input...who knows......hopefully when i replace the dizzy with a completly stock one it will start right up..if not i will know it's the ecu


newbie question...i don't know how to use a timing light or adjust my dizzy...i'm gonna swap it my self since there is only 3 bolts...try and line it up as close as the other....i know the rotor has to be in phase.....any suggestions????


Modified by lucidvtec at 3:13 PM 12/11/2005

 

The dizzy key is off set so it will only drop in one way , also pull the cover off your ecu and see if any thing is fried, sounds like some thing took a **** after it had load for a while , let us know how you make out

 

i pulled the covers off my ECU everything looks fine...anyway to test it

 

leave the stock igniter pluged in and try it

 

You can also manually test the MSD to eliminate it as a variable.

Do you have a multimeter? Use it to see if the Yel/Grn ICM trigger wire from the ECU is pulsing while cranking the car. I wouldn't use a test light though. The reason you ever made this ignitor bypass was because the stock ECU doesn't really have enough juice to trigger the MSD. So if you try and use a test light, it acts as just about as big a load as the MSD does and may or may not work to show activity on the trigger wire.

 

 

thats for tabacco use only i bet my guess is that something in the curicut board took a dump


Modified by onePOINTsix at 9:19 PM 12/11/2005

 

lol...bump

 

whats the purpose for this?