GSR dizzy
i need to replace my entire dizzy...i fried the stock coil...on accident...then i put on a msd mod cap and coil...now it misfires after 5400rpm if i run more than 12psi....if i run 7psi or so its fine until about 7200rpm....it used to run fine before the coil went bad...i'm runnin ..ngk7's if that helps......i found these dizzys they are pretty cheap..and i heard that they are better than OEM ....any one use these before???
i checked out some local parts places and they want between 200-300 bux for a rebuild with a core charge...
here is the link
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...21302
also does anyone know what my dizzy is -- TD44U OR TD68U
it's a 94 4dr gsr - obd1 b18c1
thx
i checked out some local parts places and they want between 200-300 bux for a rebuild with a core charge...
here is the link
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...21302
also does anyone know what my dizzy is -- TD44U OR TD68U
it's a 94 4dr gsr - obd1 b18c1
thx
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lucidvtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">has anyone used dizzy king before...
thx for the model #</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've heard of a few people having their dizzy king dizzys take a crap on them. Full-Race has OBD 0, 1 and 2 dizzys for sale for $269. I bought the OBD 1 dizzy and used it on my B18C, and 3000 miles later still running good.
http://www.full-race.com/catal...8_149
thx for the model #</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've heard of a few people having their dizzy king dizzys take a crap on them. Full-Race has OBD 0, 1 and 2 dizzys for sale for $269. I bought the OBD 1 dizzy and used it on my B18C, and 3000 miles later still running good.
http://www.full-race.com/catal...8_149
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...wItem
I bought one from these guys, it was definitely a brand new TD-44U and I had no problems with it over a few thousand km. I even checked all resistances before I installed it, it was fine. $140.
I am not vouching for them as a business, these guys have a horrible name in JDM importing, and for good reason since they sell a lot of crappy, broken blocks that they should have never made it out of the sea crate. But, I figured they are 30 minutes away from me, and they had no problems in taking it back if I had problems, which I haven't.
So I'm not saying your should buy it from them, just giving you my experience, take it if you will.
By the way, if it's the coil that's fried, why don't you just replace the coil? Or the ICM, it can be replaced too.
the dizzy had 180k...due to a way i wired the stock coil it fried some wiring...i was able to still use it doing a external coil...plus i'm **** about parts...i fig just replace the whole thing and not have to worry about it
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hey someone told me my problem could be because i'm usin the msd blaster 2 coil...and i should be usin the blaster ss coil....anybody...this could save me some money
i just changed the coil over to the ss...i had a bad connection on the other coil....i'm gonna replace the rotor as well....can i replace the ignitor..and where to get one???
yes you can replace the ignitor module...there about $140 bucks, you can get them through honda, or most autozones etc.
its Item 8 (item 10 is the ignitor and the heatsink, what you will actually get)
normally when the ignitor goes bad your car will just sparatically loose all power and bog down and the rpms will go crazy...after that happens a few times it normally will just kill out and not start again. there are cases though were this didnt happen and it still was bad...just take it out and test it.
its Item 8 (item 10 is the ignitor and the heatsink, what you will actually get)normally when the ignitor goes bad your car will just sparatically loose all power and bog down and the rpms will go crazy...after that happens a few times it normally will just kill out and not start again. there are cases though were this didnt happen and it still was bad...just take it out and test it.
thx for all the reply's...i saw some stuff about ...ditching the stock ignitor all together....usin a MSD ign. amp...external coil and ..msd mod cap...i have to make some conversion box thou....
any body have luck doin this bypass
i'm lookin for longevity
any body have luck doin this bypass
i'm lookin for longevity
um if its not really break n up at 7psi, then y dont u check the gap on ur plugs. its probably set too high which in turn is cuase n the spark to blow out. gap ur plugs to around 25-28 and see what happens
they were ngk 7's....gapped at 28.....i will be going to 8's soon.....my tune wasent finished passed 7k really because of some other problems....i have those fixed...i wanna make sure the ign. is soild before going back to the dyno again......the reason i wanna get rid or changed the ignitor is becuase i might have weaked it when i fubared the coil....plus ignitors go out alot from what i hear...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lucidvtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anybody have sucess...doin the ignitor bypass with the msd...?????????????</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you use the circuit provided by J&S with the msd box/coil it should work just fine.
Here check this out.
http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku hit the compare button to see both the oil filled and the epoxy ss coil.
If you read the specs...the coil you have vs the ss, its pushing 5,000 more volts and 350 us of duration compared to 220 microseconds.
the coil you have may not have been the culprit but it didnt help.
If you use the circuit provided by J&S with the msd box/coil it should work just fine.
Here check this out.
http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku hit the compare button to see both the oil filled and the epoxy ss coil.
If you read the specs...the coil you have vs the ss, its pushing 5,000 more volts and 350 us of duration compared to 220 microseconds.
the coil you have may not have been the culprit but it didnt help.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syner-G-Racing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes you can replace the ignitor module...there about $140 bucks, you can get them through honda, or most autozones etc.
its Item 8 (item 10 is the ignitor and the heatsink, what you will actually get)
normally when the ignitor goes bad your car will just sparatically loose all power and bog down and the rpms will go crazy...after that happens a few times it normally will just kill out and not start again. there are cases though were this didnt happen and it still was bad...just take it out and test it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
well just so you know...on some 93 civics the coils between tegs and stuff are the same...and you can get them seperately for under $40
its Item 8 (item 10 is the ignitor and the heatsink, what you will actually get)normally when the ignitor goes bad your car will just sparatically loose all power and bog down and the rpms will go crazy...after that happens a few times it normally will just kill out and not start again. there are cases though were this didnt happen and it still was bad...just take it out and test it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>well just so you know...on some 93 civics the coils between tegs and stuff are the same...and you can get them seperately for under $40
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drumking15 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
well just so you know...on some 93 civics the coils between tegs and stuff are the same...and you can get them seperately for under $40
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The $140 is for an ignitor module #10 not a coil #13...I can pick up a blaster coil for $26 bucks.
well just so you know...on some 93 civics the coils between tegs and stuff are the same...and you can get them seperately for under $40
</TD></TR></TABLE>The $140 is for an ignitor module #10 not a coil #13...I can pick up a blaster coil for $26 bucks.
I cant believe the lack of tech info or reviews about Distributor King dizzys. I think they are junk. They are problem fine for a regular car that just needs a normal cheap replacement but not for a high rpm performance car.
My OEM ICM was going bad so I decided to buy a whole new dizzy from the Distributor King and had nothing but problems. The problems I had came from the cam/crank sensors reporting erratic signals. Basically at a certain RPM the signals would become garbled causing a ton of timing errors and it would act as a rev limiter. Im running the AEM EMS which is hyper sensitive to sensor inputs which probably magnified the problem so perhaps a stock ECU would be more forgiving. Anyways I exchanged it 4 times and each Distributor King dizzy had the same problem at a different rpm threshold.
My OEM ICM was going bad so I decided to buy a whole new dizzy from the Distributor King and had nothing but problems. The problems I had came from the cam/crank sensors reporting erratic signals. Basically at a certain RPM the signals would become garbled causing a ton of timing errors and it would act as a rev limiter. Im running the AEM EMS which is hyper sensitive to sensor inputs which probably magnified the problem so perhaps a stock ECU would be more forgiving. Anyways I exchanged it 4 times and each Distributor King dizzy had the same problem at a different rpm threshold.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I cant believe the lack of tech info or reviews about Distributor King dizzys. I think they are junk. They are problem fine for a regular car that just needs a normal cheap replacement but not for a high rpm performance car.
My OEM ICM was going bad so I decided to buy a whole new dizzy from the Distributor King and had nothing but problems. The problems I had came from the cam/crank sensors reporting erratic signals. Basically at a certain RPM the signals would become garbled causing a ton of timing errors and it would act as a rev limiter. Im running the AEM EMS which is hyper sensitive to sensor inputs which probably magnified the problem so perhaps a stock ECU would be more forgiving. Anyways I exchanged it 4 times and each Distributor King dizzy had the same problem at a different rpm threshold.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Exactly!
Instead of doing any kind of mix 'n match and hoping they'll work, I highly suugest that you get a whole brand new distrubutor (everything) from Honda. Distributor King's dizzy are just plain horrible other than factory replacement for stock cars.
My OEM ICM was going bad so I decided to buy a whole new dizzy from the Distributor King and had nothing but problems. The problems I had came from the cam/crank sensors reporting erratic signals. Basically at a certain RPM the signals would become garbled causing a ton of timing errors and it would act as a rev limiter. Im running the AEM EMS which is hyper sensitive to sensor inputs which probably magnified the problem so perhaps a stock ECU would be more forgiving. Anyways I exchanged it 4 times and each Distributor King dizzy had the same problem at a different rpm threshold.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Exactly!
Instead of doing any kind of mix 'n match and hoping they'll work, I highly suugest that you get a whole brand new distrubutor (everything) from Honda. Distributor King's dizzy are just plain horrible other than factory replacement for stock cars.



