Agreed. that ignitor may be able to survive a few dyno runs and pulls with it, and you'll eventually keep gapping plugs until its useless, or the ignitor and/or ICM start giving out, in which you'll then come to the same issue as we found out. Upgrading ignition isn't about making power; its about keeping the power you make consistent and repeatable.

But for some, you have to let life teach...

 

If at 10 psi you have ignition issues then you Have other issues. I made 587whp without ignition issues. Now for argument sake I have brand new ignition. I want to make 700-800whp on stock Ignition (and I will) then I'm going to upgrade to M&W. But for 500whp I wouldn't think twice about switching. Considering I've had over 500whp for 3 years and hundreds of consistent track passes.

 

Again, you're going by simply PSI or even power levels, which only are a part of the equation based upon the amount of spark and timing that you're using. I'm fully aware you're caught up in the M&W10 system (which is one of Australia's niceties), but for drag racing, you kinda get to have that luxury of bursts of ignition timing for 10 seconds (hopefully less) at a time. I'm not trying to convince you.. you do what you do.. but additional spark from the stock ignition will quickly wear out at a more accelerated rate when it comes to constant and consistent abuse of the ignition system. With circuit/road racing and even aggressive street driving, we want the components to last as long as possible without readjusting for anything; gapping, timing changes etc.. Using even a simplified version is still better than nothing. But again, we think differently.

 

I'm thinking in terms of drag racing. Most people don't road race/street drive a 500whp civic. And if they do drive a 500whp it's most likely not a daily driver. I agree that it's better to use a ignition system. I guess I just don't like to waste money until it's needed and at 500whp it isn't needed. It would be great to have but not needed. I'm somebody who has wasted a lot of money on stuff I didn't need on my car. Just trying to help people out.

 

Most peopel no and drag racing it might hold up for a while if its a drag ONLY car but daily driving no way. Im at 400 and plan on going to 500+ draily driven. I know plenty of people daily driving big hp cars and the added reliability of an itgnition system is the way to go. Yes big power can be made on stock components and i wish you luck on your endeavor would be pretty cool to see it happen on stock ignition but thats really going to work it hard and i would expect ignitor failures quickly at those power levels and a gap of about 10 lol

 

i swapped out my coil for a new oem one and it fixed te issue, but i agree exactly with what u said here and i am shooting for 450 next year and i drive my car about 200km everyday.

i asked this over in calidads thread but ill ask here too, do u think once i install my ignition i will lean out too much and require retune? and if so driving it to the tuner should be alright if i stay out of boost???

 

I don't really think that its enough to require a retune, as it is really more for consistent spark, and not enough of an effective burn to change your condition, (I've never done it and ran absolutely fabulously), but I'd give your tuner a call and discuss with him/her

 

how would just the msd cap and blaster ss coil be?..any better then oem? or do you need the box aswell?

 

The box is the more important piece. But there are Mallory Hyfire and MSD 6A digital boxes that are not as expensive as the $500 units from before.

 

the summit box is only 130, totally reasonable i think.

 

Been there doesn't work. I went from a .025 gap with stock to a .020 with msd cap and blaster ss coil. Aka no good

With box .36 gap at 380hp and dropped it down to .030 with higher boost and power output should be capable of that gap at 600-700

 

sweet!!! my gap is .25 right now as well with stock ignition.

 

I'm running an OE type Accel coil, NGK power cables and 4554 plugs on an otherwise stock ignition at 460+ no issues at all. Gap is whatever NGK sets them to, 0.31" I think.

 

I bit the bullet and decided to upgrade the ignition system. I installed the MSD cap and Blaster SS coil that I bought for cheap with no success. I still have a misfire with anything over 15psi.

I got a hold the items listed on page 1:



I would really like to get this done within the next few days, but I probably won't LoL.

I really want to feel 550whp in my little EF. My body is ready

 

Since this thread popped up, I will comment on this:

Why in the world do people think the M&W setup costs $800-900??? You can easily buy everything for $550 depedning on if you already have some basic wires, terminals, and a fuse holder. Maybe $600 max if you don't already have all of that. Either way the cheaper way posted above is a good solution for the budget minded booster. As much as I hate to admit that people should even do such a thing (shortcut builds)...