IB Annihilator blocks...thoughts?
IMO, for the price they're charging, you should be getting better quality rods than Eagle. "Go ahead, turn up the BOOST!" isn't a great thing to advertise when the rods you use have been known to snap at 400 whp........which isn't very difficult to hit with a boosted h22......if they had manleys or pauters on that list instead of eagle and probe, then hell i'd say go for it.....
I agree. Why would you build a turbo motor with second class parts? If I can't build it the right way, sometimes it's better just to say no to a job.
nobody can build your block better than you can....
seriously, if you have some kind of common sense and ability to work meticoulously(sp), patience and the right tools, you can do it yourself..
most honda crank, just needed to be weight balance, there's no need for spin balance, it's an inline crank, most of the time, it's not that far off anyway...
99% of aftermarket pistons and rods are balanced from that factory, if not it'll be a gram or two at the most. I am talking about good brands, crower, manley and etc...
double, triple check your bearing clearances..it is a pain in the *** proces, but, it's very essential...I always checked all mine 4-5 times, just to convince myself...
Even PRO makes mistakes, I have seen it times and times again.....they made a mistakes, some are costly, some are just VERY VERY lucky that was caught before the motor is dropped in...
but if you have no knowledge to get it done, I'd recommend earl and tony...I have seen those guy's work, ( duh, look at the race car). sometimes for the price you'll pay it is definitely worth the extra to have a peace of mind, if that was the case, I choose those two guys...
stan
PS: eagle are okay, I have those in my motor (2.45bar
) but if I had to do it all over again, I'd gone to crower or manley, the quality on those two versus eagle are wayy far better than the eagle
BTW: earl and mike taught me how to build my very first motor, thanks guys..
seriously, if you have some kind of common sense and ability to work meticoulously(sp), patience and the right tools, you can do it yourself..
most honda crank, just needed to be weight balance, there's no need for spin balance, it's an inline crank, most of the time, it's not that far off anyway...
99% of aftermarket pistons and rods are balanced from that factory, if not it'll be a gram or two at the most. I am talking about good brands, crower, manley and etc...
double, triple check your bearing clearances..it is a pain in the *** proces, but, it's very essential...I always checked all mine 4-5 times, just to convince myself...
Even PRO makes mistakes, I have seen it times and times again.....they made a mistakes, some are costly, some are just VERY VERY lucky that was caught before the motor is dropped in...
but if you have no knowledge to get it done, I'd recommend earl and tony...I have seen those guy's work, ( duh, look at the race car). sometimes for the price you'll pay it is definitely worth the extra to have a peace of mind, if that was the case, I choose those two guys...
stan
PS: eagle are okay, I have those in my motor (2.45bar
) but if I had to do it all over again, I'd gone to crower or manley, the quality on those two versus eagle are wayy far better than the eagleBTW: earl and mike taught me how to build my very first motor, thanks guys..
IMO, for the price they're charging, you should be getting better quality rods than Eagle. "Go ahead, turn up the BOOST!" isn't a great thing to advertise when the rods you use have been known to snap at 400 whp........which isn't very difficult to hit with a boosted h22......if they had manleys or pauters on that list instead of eagle and probe, then hell i'd say go for it.....
stan
true true, if you're gonna spend the money, ask for the good quaility products, I am not sayign eagle are crap, but for the money you;re paying, ask for Manley or Crower or etc...
stan
stan
i actually wrote to IB about this, and asked about using Manley or Pauter rods. I was told Pauter must be an off-brand because the person responding to me had never heard of them. Manleys were another $450, but if i wanted they'd upgrade the Eagles with ARP rod bolts for a slight extra fee (apparently they get some off-brand version of Eagle rods that don't come with ARP bolts; I have yet to figure this out). So $450 more for rods that are around $300 more than the Eagles, and it's a nominal fee to upgrade to rod bolts that already come with the Eagles. I'm really not very enthused.
While I definitely encourage the support of board members, that price does seem reasonable. I don't particularly like the approach those guys have had in the past with their posts and opinions. I would look elswhere.
I would also agree that doing it yourself will give you the best possible results in most cases with time and careful attention.
Good luck.
I would also agree that doing it yourself will give you the best possible results in most cases with time and careful attention.
Good luck.
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