how much psi?
holy crap i agree, these kids are being a little cocky about a simple d16z6 psi question. What does it matter if ya blow another engine. trial and error right?
on the safe side you should only be boostin' like 6 psi in that sexy little SOHC you call an engine. you could be ballsy and push for like 10 but geez not if you havn't uber'd it.
on the safe side you should only be boostin' like 6 psi in that sexy little SOHC you call an engine. you could be ballsy and push for like 10 but geez not if you havn't uber'd it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by f150harleytruck7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i wasnt going to check the cam, should i? note this isnt the hydrolocked engine, and this engine ran good when installed</TD></TR></TABLE>
you previously posted before that it had a backfiring problem, thats not good for a good running motor...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1477446
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by f150harleytruck7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just swapped out my d16z6 motor for a jdm zc motor, i swapped over my intake manifold, but thats it, my olf engine had low compression in one cylinder, and that was the only explination the shop could give me for the bogging, they recommended a jdm motor, i installed it and it ran good for about 750 miles, now it has started doing the same thing as my old one, when mine runs good u cant hear the vtec to well, but when it acts up the vtec gets loud as hell and it ont go anywhere, takes forever to get from 5000 rpm to redline, my old engine was backfiring from matting it to the floor just to keep up with traffic, this jdm motor hasnt backfired yet but from the way it sound i believe it will soon, when my old engine backfired it ran good after it did, but next time i drive it, it acts up again, anybody have this problem before, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
you previously posted before that it had a backfiring problem, thats not good for a good running motor...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1477446
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by f150harleytruck7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just swapped out my d16z6 motor for a jdm zc motor, i swapped over my intake manifold, but thats it, my olf engine had low compression in one cylinder, and that was the only explination the shop could give me for the bogging, they recommended a jdm motor, i installed it and it ran good for about 750 miles, now it has started doing the same thing as my old one, when mine runs good u cant hear the vtec to well, but when it acts up the vtec gets loud as hell and it ont go anywhere, takes forever to get from 5000 rpm to redline, my old engine was backfiring from matting it to the floor just to keep up with traffic, this jdm motor hasnt backfired yet but from the way it sound i believe it will soon, when my old engine backfired it ran good after it did, but next time i drive it, it acts up again, anybody have this problem before, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by f150harleytruck7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and how is that ihatejdm, he doesnt make any sense, what is the problem with putting a turbo on a motor that was just installed and runs good?</TD></TR></TABLE>
your motor will not last long with just an fmu for tuning. he told you that and your response was 'I have an f150 that runs 10's, nuff said'. yeah, you were right, nuff said.
your motor will not last long with just an fmu for tuning. he told you that and your response was 'I have an f150 that runs 10's, nuff said'. yeah, you were right, nuff said.
IIRC fmu's advance the timing at high revs, and increasing manifold pressure. That's a formula for a blown engine. I would look into at least changing the timing, and don't forget colder plugs and smaller gaps. My wife's runs 14psi and it's set to 5˚ after top dead center. The timing is set by applying pressure (with an air pump) to vaccum/pressure sensor, while taking the engine to the desired revs (800rpm, idle, in her case).
The issue with a fmu is single mode performance. You need to keep the factory timing and fuel curves while not boosting. Boost-mode curves to be used when needed, aren't in a fmu. So you end up with a nasty mix of curves.
The issue with a fmu is single mode performance. You need to keep the factory timing and fuel curves while not boosting. Boost-mode curves to be used when needed, aren't in a fmu. So you end up with a nasty mix of curves.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IHateJDM »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
bwahahahahahahahaha
thanks, i've had a boring day at work, i needed a good laugh.
btw, i wouldn't be making fun of his name if i were you, special ed seems to have a much better grasp on things than you do.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This dood is definitely clown shoes. You have to love the dig on my name even though his is F150 in a Honda forum. What a douche! 10's, nuff said about what?
bwahahahahahahahaha
thanks, i've had a boring day at work, i needed a good laugh.
btw, i wouldn't be making fun of his name if i were you, special ed seems to have a much better grasp on things than you do.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This dood is definitely clown shoes. You have to love the dig on my name even though his is F150 in a Honda forum. What a douche! 10's, nuff said about what?
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