If you run a direct port, the map sensor does not even play a part in anything.

D series, didnt catch that part. 251 on a 100 shot, thats pretty nice on that dyno. Especially from the single cam. You said you used a .052 jet, single nozzle? We got a hundred shot out of .026 jets with the 4 nozzles, I was just curious.

How many miles were on the GSR motor that blew the head gasket with a 75 shot? Sounds like your car was really lean if you were melting plugs at that level.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanCivic2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Another poor fellow who has been corrupted by Honda-Tech myths. With the right fuel upgrades DRY nitrous can be more tunable and safer at large shots than a wet kit. Take a look at my buddy Craig's setup in the post right above this one. 150 shot dry.</TD></TR></TABLE>

But a dry direct port kit? It just doesn't make any sense, unless you're using a hondata or AEM or Accel DFI to control fuel enrichment while on nitrous, but even then you end up paying more for bigger injectors, etc.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanCivic2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'm not trying to be a dick either, but you've been misinformed about alot of things and that happens alot on the HT bandwagons, especially about dry nitrous kits and the potential of D series engines (which are just now starting to get more noticed around here.) Take this as a good lesson on dry nitrous kits.
Happy Holidays.
Ryan</TD></TR></TABLE>

ryan, im moving to w. palm beach sooon...how bout d series single fogger dry vs. b series direct port@ moroso? maybe a good spankin will convert ya just a little friendly battle

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quickda6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

ryan, im moving to w. palm beach sooon...how bout d series single fogger dry vs. b series direct port@ moroso? maybe a good spankin will convert ya just a little friendly battle </TD></TR></TABLE>

I get tune Dec 20 at Secret Services. I'll be down for a race.

 

you are still dependenant on the injectors for fuel which i don't like about a dry kit. i'd rather run a wet kit with it's own source of fuel(pump) so the injectors can stay relatively small, and have the car run perfect off the bottle. running a big dry shot to me seems like too much work. you need to tune like a turbo set-up where as with a wet kit the n2o kit is more of a standalone unit with the only real tuning being jetting. not bashing at all, just my .02

 

the engine was rebuilt 5000 miles ago with new 10.6:1 JE pistons and all new bearing, seals, gaskets, etc. I think i had pleanty fuel, idk cuz i was blowing black smoke whenever i got on it. My pressure at idle was 52psi then the additional fuel on top of that from the fuel selenoid.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wolfsburg2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you are still dependenant on the injectors for fuel which i don't like about a dry kit. i'd rather run a wet kit with it's own source of fuel(pump) so the injectors can stay relatively small, and have the car run perfect off the bottle. running a big dry shot to me seems like too much work. you need to tune like a turbo set-up where as with a wet kit the n2o kit is more of a standalone unit with the only real tuning being jetting. not bashing at all, just my .02</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'd rather have my fuel injected by a quality set of RC injectors and fine tuned by good engine management such as Hondata than just squirted in by some cheaply manufactured nitrous fogger. Just my .02

 

different strokes i guess. i don't think nx is any cheaper quality than rc.

like i said my 2 big concerns are tuning and deppendence on injectors(no matter how good they are) which makes it a much more difficult set up than it needs to be.

the beauty of nitrous is its simplicity. it's user freindly nature(as long as you're not a retard) trying to run a huge dry shot vs wet complicates something that imo does not need to be complicated. the fuel pump should be upgraded regardless of wet/dry, so why not just run wet?

and like i said, off nitrous drivability is not affected(aside form colder plugs) and tuning can be done with your eyes closed

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wolfsburg2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">different strokes i guess. i don't think nx is any cheaper quality than rc.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

So you think a $25 dollar fogger has better quality and precision than a $95 RC Injector?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wolfsburg2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

like i said my 2 big concerns are tuning and deppendence on injectors(no matter how good they are) which makes it a much more difficult set up than it needs to be.

the beauty of nitrous is its simplicity. it's user freindly nature(as long as you're not a retard) trying to run a huge dry shot vs wet complicates something that imo does not need to be complicated. the fuel pump should be upgraded regardless of wet/dry, so why not just run wet?
</TD></TR></TABLE>


It's really not that complicated.

ZEX kit..................$480
RC Injectors..........$320
Hondata S200........$245


For $1045 the kit can be tuned more precisely than your direct port wet setup which generally cost $700-$800 new or even more sometimes. I would rather have perfect a/f curves and timing maps tuned on a dyno.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wolfsburg2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and like i said, off nitrous drivability is not affected(aside form colder plugs) and tuning can be done with your eyes closed</TD></TR></TABLE>

Tuning is never done with your eyes closed. Off nitrous drivability is not affected when using Hondata nitrous controls with a dry kit.

 

i'll end the circle here. your way i am sure has it's benefits. in my opinion a wet or direct port kit is more user freindly and a better set-up.

 

Don't forget the price of Hondata tuning (upwards of $400!!!). If you're going to go all out with nitrous, get a progressive controller.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by specie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't forget the price of Hondata tuning (upwards of $400!!!). If you're going to go all out with nitrous, get a progressive controller.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nitrous does not take as long to tune as boost.

 

There is no real tuning to a dry direct port kit. Its the same as a normal dry kit. The direct port is for large injections of nitrous because most manifolds will not distribute evenly. Not much tuning needed for RC 310's, it only took me about 15 minutes with a VAFC. Then all you have to do is knock timing back (via MSD if you want it to run well on the motor still) and flip the switch. The regulator adds all the fuel you need and then some. Its just as easy as a wet kit IMO, for anything larger than a 150 shot I would run wet just because the size of the injectors would be to big for normal motor use.