How much does Manufacterer matter? 1st hand experience please
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How much does Manufacterer matter? 1st hand experience please
Im looking to start a project build. Im going to start with a block. It will be a B18 GSR block. Im looking for some first hand experience with manufacturers of pistons, rods, and bearings. Some of the names I recognize the most are Arias, Wiseco, CP, JE and a few others. For rods ive seen eagle, manley, and some others but I forget the names. And bearings Ive only heard of ACL, and of course OEM. The crank i plan to micropolish a GSR crank, unless I find information that suggests otherwise. My power goal is 350-400 on pump with boost, but who knows what the future holds. This will be a slow build. What brought this on is a have a current GSR that i planned on boosting until i noticed it smoking at High RPM, 7000+. I planned on doing a mild turbo looking for 300-350hp. The compression test performed at install was ~190 across the board, but I havnt checked valve seals or anything like that. Anyways, it brought this on and I also like projects. Please dont post any guess work or hearsay. Im looking for people with some experience in the matter at hand. I want to save money where I can, but if i can spend a few more dollars here and there for a better, more reliable product, i will as i see fit. I will do as much of the work I can, but I understand I may not be able to do the complete build myself, and will have a shop do what I can't.
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Re: How much does Manufacterer matter? 1st hand experience please
What is the point of this? For pistons, the ones you mentioned are all great. I have used wiseco, je, and cp with no problems. This is not really going to help you decide because people will coming in here vouching for all of them.
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Re: How much does Manufacterer matter? 1st hand experience please
I strongly recommend manley pistons and rods. I have personally used the pistons and have seen there rods in a few friends builds and they are great. I personally have a thing for pauter rods so thats what i use in my builds, subaru and honda. I also loved my CPs i had in my subaru.
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Re: How much does Manufacterer matter? 1st hand experience please
for 350-400 any companies forged piston/rod will work fine, at that power level assembly and tuning are the most important, personally for such a low power goal i would just go with Wiseco/Eagle setup and OEM or ACL bearings.
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Re: How much does Manufacterer matter? 1st hand experience please
Thats good to hear, causes ill just buy what ever i can get the best deal on.
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Re: How much does Manufacterer matter? 1st hand experience please
Thats what I had in mind. Have seen some deals with those pistons/rods with "free" acl bearings for a good combo price.
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Re: How much does Manufacterer matter? 1st hand experience please
Wiseco/eagle/acl combo is perfect up to 400whp. For more, you'd want upgraded wrist pins, or non-off-the-shelf piston design. CP is the next choice.
I'd realy recommend an 89mm crank, polished and chamfered. Many people spin them at high rpm's, and they also provide a 10% wider rod bearing. You get more torque, more displacement to help spool the turbo, and can sell your GSR crank for more than the LS. The downside is the added mass and possible squirter modding, but both are canceled out by the added stroke and forged pistons not needing cooling.
I'd realy recommend an 89mm crank, polished and chamfered. Many people spin them at high rpm's, and they also provide a 10% wider rod bearing. You get more torque, more displacement to help spool the turbo, and can sell your GSR crank for more than the LS. The downside is the added mass and possible squirter modding, but both are canceled out by the added stroke and forged pistons not needing cooling.
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Re: How much does Manufacterer matter? 1st hand experience please
Wiseco/eagle/acl combo is perfect up to 400whp. For more, you'd want upgraded wrist pins, or non-off-the-shelf piston design. CP is the next choice.
I'd realy recommend an 89mm crank, polished and chamfered. Many people spin them at high rpm's, and they also provide a 10% wider rod bearing. You get more torque, more displacement to help spool the turbo, and can sell your GSR crank for more than the LS. The downside is the added mass and possible squirter modding, but both are canceled out by the added stroke and forged pistons not needing cooling.
I'd realy recommend an 89mm crank, polished and chamfered. Many people spin them at high rpm's, and they also provide a 10% wider rod bearing. You get more torque, more displacement to help spool the turbo, and can sell your GSR crank for more than the LS. The downside is the added mass and possible squirter modding, but both are canceled out by the added stroke and forged pistons not needing cooling.
With the LS having a redline almost 1000 RPM lower then a GSR, with the LS crank, with my redline go lower and move my powerband?
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Re: How much does Manufacterer matter? 1st hand experience please
The LS Crank can do over 8000rpms if that is your concern. RPM "revving" doesn't necessarily mean more power above a certain point. You'll just be creating vibration by then and not more power. How much power difference you ask? Only when the car is tuned will you know. Suffice it to say, using an LS crank does wonders for your torqueband. I have performed the famed GSR Block / LS Crank combination, and as HiProfile stated, its rather easy to do, and the drawbacks pale compared to the benefits. If you have the ability or means to sleeve to 84mm, with that LS Crank, its even more wonderful. If not, no big deal
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Re: How much does Manufacterer matter? 1st hand experience please
Your turbine housing and ability to control boost pressure as engine speed increases will play a larger role in peak horsepower RPM than your stroke.
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Re: How much does Manufacterer matter? 1st hand experience please
that's based upon the stock factory head/block combination, as the head isn't made to rev much, not the block. There are plenty of NA LS/VTEC (stock B18B) engines that rev over 8400rpms anyway, its the matter of correct assembly.
The LS Crank can do over 8000rpms if that is your concern. RPM "revving" doesn't necessarily mean more power above a certain point. You'll just be creating vibration by then and not more power. How much power difference you ask? Only when the car is tuned will you know. Suffice it to say, using an LS crank does wonders for your torqueband. I have performed the famed GSR Block / LS Crank combination, and as HiProfile stated, its rather easy to do, and the drawbacks pale compared to the benefits. If you have the ability or means to sleeve to 84mm, with that LS Crank, its even more wonderful. If not, no big deal
The LS Crank can do over 8000rpms if that is your concern. RPM "revving" doesn't necessarily mean more power above a certain point. You'll just be creating vibration by then and not more power. How much power difference you ask? Only when the car is tuned will you know. Suffice it to say, using an LS crank does wonders for your torqueband. I have performed the famed GSR Block / LS Crank combination, and as HiProfile stated, its rather easy to do, and the drawbacks pale compared to the benefits. If you have the ability or means to sleeve to 84mm, with that LS Crank, its even more wonderful. If not, no big deal
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Re: How much does Manufacterer matter? 1st hand experience please
no problem. you'll need the Golden Eagle oil squirter block kit with the LS crank. Make sure that it is micropolished so that you can start clean on getting bearings. You want to make sure that you match your crank to the rods. i.e. GS-R cranks use GS-R length rods, LS Crank use LS length rods. With the rods, remember, pick a piston from a company that's based on an LS/VTEC kit, so you can get the right compression you need.
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Re: How much does Manufacterer matter? 1st hand experience please
CP, JE, Weisco, etc are all great pistons. Pretty much what ever the best deal you can get really. I have CPs that I will be using on my b18c1 bare block I just picked up. I also bought ACL Race bearings over OEM. For Rods I would go with Manley Or Pauter. I just today bought the manley turbo tuff rods. If you plan to make 350-400hp then I would go with Weisco/Eagle rods as those are the cheapest combo.
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Re: How much does Manufacterer matter? 1st hand experience please
no problem. you'll need the Golden Eagle oil squirter block kit with the LS crank. Make sure that it is micropolished so that you can start clean on getting bearings. You want to make sure that you match your crank to the rods. i.e. GS-R cranks use GS-R length rods, LS Crank use LS length rods. With the rods, remember, pick a piston from a company that's based on an LS/VTEC kit, so you can get the right compression you need.
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Re: How much does Manufacterer matter? 1st hand experience please
Ok, 9.5-10:1 sounds good. So a gt30 then, or even an equivelent sized Precision. Ill post some picks up of the block when i pick it up. Ill get it hot tanked and probably bored to 81.5 or 82 depending on how it looks.
Last edited by fortillian; 10-20-2009 at 10:24 PM.
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