viskii420

Hey H-T,

I'm finally finishing my build but I'm still not sure about few thing before go to a tuner.
Here is my setup
d16z6 P&P head w. stage turbo cam and 1mm over valves
d16y8 block with 1mm over pistons 8:5 compression
T3/T4 turbo 63.ar 60 trim on hot side.
Hondata s300 w. boost & RC 750CC
Since I'm using headstuds i need to re-torque the studs after few heat cycle. Also on the other hand the block/head is freshly build so i want to change the oil from the debris left inside. To make the matter worse I rebuilded the tranny and also installed LSD.
So how do I start the engine for approximately 15-20 mins to check for leaks/problems without damaging the piston rings.

* Do i run stock injectors and not hook up the turbo yet? 240CC
* Or i do hook up everything and <FONT COLOR="#FF0000">try</FONT> to adjust the AFR with hondata with plxm300

Thanks for help,
Vick

**If I'm missing any info please point out

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

Why cant you just run stock ecu, injectors and sensors? You can leave the turbo hooked up, just dont boost. In fact you dont even need to leave the garage to do what you need.

viskii420

*Basically hook up the turbo/pipes just not connected to the TB. At the TB run short ram in my case until i do the heat cycle.

* For the fuel management under hondata run the p28 stock map , with stock injectors.

What sensor you referring to?

josh green

Crank the car, let get to OT, put it on the dyno, tune it. Change oil, drive away. Running the car built and untuned is a bad idea.

1992Si

Before you start it, make sure you have a good base map.

Or like some said leave the charge pipe off the TB. Then your starting it as NA.

Before you try and start it. remove the plugs and the ECU fuse. Crank the engine over until you have oil pressure, 30-60 seconds.

Install plugs, and fuse. Start engine.

Let it run at a high idel for 15-20 minutes. bring it back to idle. check timing with a light.

Change oil and filter

Take it to a tuner and have it tuned.

After 10 heat cycles, re-torque the head, to 70ftlbs.

A heat cycle is drive the car as normal, let it cool over night.


Step torque the ARP studs. Do not increase torque until none of the 10 nuts move at that torque setting. I do our race engine is 3 or 4 steps.

Check out http://www.turbod16.com

viskii420

I'm aiming for about 16-20 psi wouldn't i get headlift if i try to tune it before I re-torque the headstuds? In other words should i do 10 heat cycles before the tuning?

thanks

viskii420

Thanks for the answers guys.
But I got some pretty good idea what lead should i take.
In my case I stay with stock injectors, install the turbo setup but not connect the charge pipe to TB, plug the plxm300 to stay on 14.7:1 AFR below 4500rpm until I do 10 heat cycles. and then get it Tunned

Reason for this decision came from a member at ClubEk.net "phunhaus" i trust this dude with his builds.
Recommended me this site.
http://www.importbuilders.com/breakinarticle.htm

Some quotes from the website:
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Here is a question answer format to help the world understand how motors work and how to use them most reliably. This part on breaking in a motor is opinion and the parts on why certain things happen are based on experience and sound scientific principles.

What about the guy who told me I need to put 1000 miles on my motor before I tune it and that I need to "break it in"? I will be blunt. That person is not educated on motors. With 1 exception...if that person told you to DYNO your motor at narrow throttle, that your going to be driving it for a few hundred miles, that's fine... However...I see a lot of people that customers "think" are smart and they are recommending 1000 mile break ins on built motors! That is the stupidest thing you could possibly do! When you hear terms like this, BEWARE and RUN THE OTHER WAY, or CLOSE YOUR EYES: "Just put in a base map, and break it in for xxxx miles, then go tune it, give the rings time to seat.." RUN!! CLOSE YOUR EYES! That is insane, stupid and ignorant all at the same time. Base Map? What the heck is that? When Honda tells you to put xxxx miles on your motor, or whatever, its completely tuned already with great air fuel ratio's. Do don't think for one second your base map is worth a damn, because it is a shot in the dark. It sucks UNLESS you went to a dyno and fully tuned your car at the RPM's and throttle position your driving it at with a wideband hooked up to the car. That chip your using is somebody's educated guess at what will run the car. Its not intended to drive on for any extended periods of time on! (I HOPE THEY TOLD YOU THIS, if they didn't... RUN!!) If you have no other option, a basemap can be used for getting your car a FEW miles straight to the dyno, but I am very against that even and a tow truck would be better.. This is a theme you all need to understand: "Don't start your motor unless you can adjust the air/fuel ratio to a reasonable number right away". Anything else is unwise, and foolish. Wideband cost like $350 shipped, just buy one for you and all your buddies to share. Best money you ever spent.

So here is a lesson on what to do to make your motor run as good as you can with as little problems as possible.

#1 I got a brand new block/engine and I want to break it in properly. What should I do first? A most common question. The answer is surprisingly simplistic. First you have to inspect the hone finish of the block your breaking in. What grit was it honed to? 500? 400? If the hatchings on it are pronounced and clear, you most likely have a bad machined block that will require some break-in to smooth it out. If I got a block that had a very smooth hone finish, such as a plateau finished block (IB), this is what you do. When you get the motor in the car, and are ready to start it up make sure you have an oil pressure gauge installed. Install a wide band O2 sensor to read 02 ratio BEFORE YOU START IT. Then unplug the distributor and crank it over until you get oil pressure, should take a short time, under a minute sometimes. Then plug the distributor back in, and start it up with whatever program you have. Notice the air fuel ratio. The car is warming up, so its going to read a little rich at first. When the car fully warms up you want the air/fuel ratio to be as close to 14.7:1 as possible. Immediately adjust your tuning to make it 14.7 at idle right away. Use a injector multiplier change if you have management, if you don't, use a fuel pressure regulator for starts... Then when you get the car at 14.7 at idle, and make it idle at around 800-900 RPM, make sure the timing is at about 13-16 degrees. Now, with the air/fuel ratio meter working, take the car for a short drive on the dyno, or the street, driving as you would normally. DO NOT put the throttle past say 50%. Make sure the air/fuel ratio is around 14.7:1, but not over 15:1 all throughout the gears up to say, 4500 RPM. Now your car is drive able. You can drive it within those parameters ONLY. Which in English means: less than 50% throttle, and under 4500 RPMS ONLY. Until you tune for whatever area you want to drive in. You could literally drive the car 100k miles as long as you don't go outside those parameters and it should be fine. Air fuel ratio and timing is good...its good.

#2 Now I can drive it, when do I tune it? Well, there are 1000 opinions out on this one, but we do it this way, and its absolutely proven. We drive the car a few miles on the street maybe 50-100 miles? at 14.7:1 to make sure there are no problems with the motor, no coolant leaks, etc... Your going to want to drive it to no more than 50% throttle, up and down the RPM's at all kinds of variable throttle positions. 0-50%....then it goes straight on the dyno, where we start the real tuning. Basically, I drive it to see if there are any problems, not to break in the thing so to speak.
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For the full story check the website got much more.

Hope this helps someone in the future.

viskii420

Any inputs are welcome