vactor

i have a 2000 ITR. it has a Hondata S200 with Hondata OBDII plugged P28 ECU. it also has a J&S Ultra Safeguard V1 installed. the tachometer does not work. it is my understanding that i need to splice 2 wires from the ecu together to get the tach to work? it was my understanding that i use A19 (solid blue) and B13 (yellow / green stripe) from the ecu and splice them together. if i splice them toigether with the B13 input from before the J&S the car will not start. if i use the B13 after it comes from the J&S the car runs fu\ine, but no tach. any suggestions??




[Modified by vactor, 5:57 PM 4/2/2003]

Spunkster

I'm running an s200 and a original safeguard on my ITR and never had any problems. Perhaps you used the wiring diagram for a 97 or 98 Itr instead of the 00-01. If so this may be your problem.

vactor

u used the same A19 and B13 splice trick? it worked for you? ...

sgT

97-98 doesnt use the NEP wire

vactor

ttt. i know there must be some 2000+ itr users with hondata and J&S ...

vactor

ttt. any help on this?

vactor

a little help?

vactor

still in need of help here.

Sonny

You need a 1K ohm 1/4 watt resistor between the red and green wires on the J&S harness (where it connects to the Safeguard).

That's how I fixed the tach on my setup after using a P28/Hondata with the J&S. That suggestion come from John @ J&S and it works like a champ.

Sonny

vactor

thanks sonny. gonna go to rat shack, get a resistor and see if it works!!

vactor

tired it. tach jumped once on startup, but nothing else. any other ideas?

vactor

^

Sonny

If you take the J&S out of the picture, does the tach come back?

Sonny

vactor

well, if i plug he stock ecu back in the tach works just fine.

Sonny

Where is the J&S tapped into? The factory wiring harness?

Sonny

vactor

yeah, it is tapped into the factory harness near the kick panel. now i did check the resistor, and it is only 990 ohms. but it seems unlikely that the 10 ohm deficit would cause any hardship. the strange thing is that the resistor trick works for a second while the car starts, and then stops. ...

vactor

seems i need more current. but i am not sure. anyone else?

vactor

up up and away

boomslang

Splice the factory NEP wire into your ICM wire. Then run a jumper wire from the ICM wire, add a 1K ohm resistor inline, then to the IGP1 wire.

If you need wire colors and pin #'s, e-mail me.

Sounds like you bought an inferior OBD2->OBD1 conversion harness.

vactor

no harness for me. this is the P28 ECu with OBDII plugs straight frm hondata!! thanks, i will give it a try!!

vactor

well, this worked a bit better as the tach worked for about 2 seconds. better than before. this is getting hiughly annoying. i doublechecked the wiring, and everything is as indicated ...

Sonny

Bypass the Safeguard by unplugging the green connector harness from the Safeguard itself. Then run a jumper wire from the white to green wires (ICM in/ICM out) in the safeguard's connector. The other wires (power, ground, VTEC solenoid, etc) are just tapped into the wiring, so those can be left alone.

Sonny

Spunkster

If you remove the Safeguard completly form the loop, does everything work fine? If so you should contact J&S.

On my 98 ITR I can bypass the J&S completly with just 2 wires, the ignition ouput to the ditrubutor. This takes about 30 seconds to change.


[Modified by Spunkster, 10:58 AM 4/4/2003]

vactor

yup. with the gren jumpered to white of J&S and otherwise unplugged (i.e. disconnecting J&S and connecting the cut ICM wire), works perfectly. also workes perfectly with the stock ecu (and J&S installed).

Spunkster

Time to call John at J&S