Freshdot

Fully built top to bottom minus sleeves..

cam: bisi 2.4
JE: 9:1


that knocking'ish noise has always bothered me and has been there since the very first start. some say it's the cam/built motor and it's normal...some say something's up. well H-T?


http://youtu.be/f332fgSigJU

skateboard_ej8

iTrader: (4)

That sounds like alot of noise. Does it only happen on cold starts and eventually go away after the engine is warm?

Freshdot

it never goes away no matter the temp...when i have stethescoped it, it sounds like it comes mainly from the bell housing area.

Skalabala

Are you talking about the knocking noise that sounds like it is on one spot every 360 degrees?
have you tried a different oil?
Can be FW touching bell housing?

Freshdot

yes that is the noise!

W!d3b0dYr3X

maybe this has something to do with your knocking sound?

civickiller

valve tapping, which i doubt
rod knock, which i think it is

try not to run it if can

Freshdot

sooooo what's the next move here?

boosted_D

iTrader: (1)

How many miles have you put on it since it was built?

Could very well be piston slap, what was the ptw clearance when the motor was put together?

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

Do we have yet another case of someone not measuring piston to wall clearance and now the pistons are slapping the cylinder walls?

Freshdot

there's maybe 500 miles on the car, if it was p2w wouldn't the sound change with engine temps or speed?

i didn't measure the p2w i know everything i purchased was in stock specs, so i thought it was all good.

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

Everything you purchased was within stock specs....but did you change the pistons. You cant just go out and buy 81mm pistons, or whatever, and then throw them in without measuring P2W. If your p2w gap is too wide or two tight, there is no amount of heating or cooling that will change that noise.

ashb82

here is my f22 bisimoto cam. has the same sound. i worried about it but its 50000 miles later. i go to the track 2 or 3 times a month. i dont know the hp but it traps 100mph in the 1/8th fully weighted eg.

http://youtu.be/hSlmNNGdzjg

Freshdot

your sound seems like it's coming more from the head than the block.

i need to use a better camera and get a better video of mine to narrow this down.

if it is a p2w clearance issue what is the fix?

akelly17

I had a b20 with crower stage 2 cams and full supertech valvetrain with their single valvesprings and it was noisy as ****. Never sounded like a knocking, but extremely loud ticking. I got used to it after a while, but "that's what built heads sound like" is what everyone told me. Motor has been ran for almost 2 years now, hard a **** with a stock bottom end and it still runs (in my buddy's car now)

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

Head noises wont sound like a knock, head noises will usually always be associated with a ticking noise of varying degrees. Valve lash is critical when using aftermarket cams so if you dont have them dialed in properly your ticking sound will be awful. I hear a very distinct knocking sound coming from the OP's motor in his video aside from the ticking associated with the valve train.

civickiller

+1

Freshdot

right, that knocking is the source of all my concerns.

civickiller

rod knock

boosted_D

iTrader: (1)

Could be rod knock, could be piston slap....

Only way to know for sure is to tear down the bottom end, plastigage all the bearings, and check all the PTW clearances.

IF it's piston slap, chances are good that it will hold together for quite some time with no issues, there are many people who have run super loose PTW and had slap that the motor stayed together for a long time.

IF it's rod knock, well then, you will find out sooner than later, when you throw a rod.

Freshdot

ok, if it is piston slap than what is the fix?

what i don't understand though is that when i stethescope the motor all the cylinders sound fine, it isn't until i get near the bell housing that the noise gets noticeable.

Slacker93eg

My favorite was Chris Uncensored vol 2

kyden

are you running stock PP bolts? i remember someone before said they were running arp pp bolts and they were too long, causing them to grind against the block.

Freshdot

PP bolts?

bcumbie

Pressure Plate Bolts