if there is a group of you that can share the cost of a stage 4, then the rest buy stage 2 or 3. It works out way way cheaper than anything else on the market. Then you just share programmer and datalogging when you need it. That's why i'm selling my 4B and gettiing a 2B.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=93921

 

The interface is for the rpm swict, clutch switch and the serial port for the ECU. RPM points for VTEC and Rev Max can be staticly set with the software but the switch is needed for launch control and shift control.

I edited my post for all of the weenies out there....


[Modified by drealgsr, 6:13 PM 11/27/2001]

 

not sure exactly what your point is, that this is in fact not a standalone, or are you just showing us how much you know.

all the switchs would be very easy to wire into ecu, but modifying case to accomodate com port be some more difficult. if you open the interface box it only has a very small circuit board in it which can be relocated into ecu case.

just trying to answer the dudes ???'s. but thanks for attitude anyway, it really bothers me.

 

Actually you both are right. It functions as the interface and as the controller for the functions dreal mentioned.

No need to get all huffy fellas.

 

It would work great for your application (any N/A). In fact you'd pay quite a bit less since you won't need the boost mod.

 

Thanks for answering. The reason why I am asking is because my p13 seems to be governed so I am limited in my options when it comes to speed. I guess I can always get the unit and then upgrade later on as I accumulate more components. My untimate goal is to customize a supercharger for my hybrid but I want to do some more research on that first..

The only downside I see is that there is only Stage I for my ECU. And did I read correctly in assuming that I can use the b18c ECU and it will still work???


[Modified by Jason kiDD, 9:25 PM 11/27/2001]

 

Hey guys, I have a question. If I had Hondata for boost, would there be any need for a V-AFC?

 

no, VAFC is useless. hondata takes care of doing the air/fuel mixtures itself.

 

Now that is what i am talking about. Especially since the VAFC costs like $330 Retail already..

 

Personaly I would go (and so I have done it) with any other standalone when it comes to compare to Hondata stage 4. The stage 4 with all his nacessary tool, chips, burning station etc is expensiver than, for example the Haltech.

I payd for my Haltech E6K with GM 3 bar MAP sesnor and the terminated harness including all sensors (the plugs fits the RC injectors directly too) about 1500USD, can´t remember exactly. A Hondata stage 4 goes for about 1900.

Okay it is some work to wire up the Haltech, but this is what we like when it comes to car tuning, right

 

I got my Z-Dyne with the GM Map sensor, Connection wire and adapter, and instructions, NEW IN BOX for $1100. I got a free laptop from my Brother in law, and this thing's been kicking *** ever since!

Tuning is EASY. We got within 5% on the fuel side just *** tuning it and making sure to stay a little rich by the EGT standards...

As far as a standalone unit not needing to be interfaced... Haltec, Motec, Electromotive and all of these standalones use LAPTOPS to tune them as well.


Jason Kidd: I have a simple fix for your governor problem. You talking a speed limiter, right? A Field VTEC controller will get rid of this speed cut. It basically jsut sends a 30 MPH signal to the sensor that looks for vehicle speed and that allows it to accelerate as high as you want, power willing. I have one I'm trying to get rid of with harness and all in the original box with english instructions for $150. Let me know if you might be interested.


[Modified by SiR Kid, 9:24 AM 11/28/2001]

 

So which one would be recommended for a N/A application first with hopes for upgrading to either turbo or SC later on down the road??? Which is more cost effective and has the most options..??

 

And I wouldnt mind getting that cause that price isnt that bad at all, but that $150 could go towards purchasing a standalone which would be more beneficial for me in the end.

 

While you're n/a this is a good piece and can be resold for the 150 I'm selling it for..

It allows VTEC enagagement adjustment, fuel adjustment <not the greatest, but it works> and kills the governor. Not too shabby.

 

I will get back to you on the field unit. But BTW, what setup are you using now since you no longer need it?

 

Z-Dyne gold... Reprogrammed/hacked up HF ecu

I dumped a Hypertech Shogun and the Field unit for that one VERY nice ecu!

 

Jason kiDD:

I just looked looked at your profile....is the '91 Accord EX the car you need this for?

If so, and your car is OBD0, you might want to see if Zdyne has what you need. Hondata is geared more towards OBD1 and 2, though I'm sure it would work for you.

Sorry, I really have never investigated Accords so I don't know about their Engine/ECU combinations.

 

Yeah I have a 91 Accord, but with a 98 Prelude engine. Also my ecu is ODB I JDM p13. However looking over at Hondata's website they do not currently make anything for my ECU, which would mean that I have to buy a B18C making the cost not worth my while.

Any website for the Z-Dyne system?

 

I agree with SiR Kid, Zdyne all the way I love mine, although I've got a turboLS 88 CRX HF.......... HF ECUS are cheap anyways, you can get them for less than $50

 

ANYONE HAVE THE WEB ADDRESS FOR THE Z-DYNE SYSTEM?

 

damn dude.. can't you use a search engine. I typed ZDYNE on MSN and the first reply gave me the addy.

ZDYNE

 

Thanks did a search but was getting mostly crap due to the fact that I seperated the first letter from the rest of the word.

And I looked at the site. There application doesnt work for me either since they dont do any mods for H22 p13 Chips.

Any other suggestions you guys.


[Modified by Jason kiDD, 1:46 AM 11/29/2001]

 

How do the standalones compare to a V-AFC with a AVC-R?

 

AVC-R is a boost controller
V-AFC is a piggy back fuel massager with VTEC control