my check engine light is always on. I just started it up.

my setup is:b16 turbo,

hondata s200 with boost

cel is always on and wont turn off. what do I do?

thanks for the help.

 

Figure out which code it is throwing and fix it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kwuaymaikrup &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Figure out which code it is throwing and fix it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

bawahahaha!!!!

Landon

 

actually it was me that started this thread, and I check the code and it throws no code, it just stays solid and doesn't blink. so if you could enloghten me oh smartest of the smart, I would appreciate it.

 

i tried calling but couldn't get a hold of you. I have been doing some reading and it looks like the causes of a solid check engine light with no code could be one of the following. Shift light setting low (making the light stay on all the time with no code). it was also said that it could be caused by a bad chip, or a chip (rom) that was ordered for a different ecu. It could also be the injector settings but that usually results in a readable code.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my check engine light is always on. I just started it up.

my setup is:b16 turbo,

hondata s200 with boost

cel is always on and wont turn off. what do I do?

thanks for the help.</TD></TR></TABLE>

When you get a solid CEL like that, generally it means the ROM (Chip) is bad. Are you using the romulator or the chip? It is telling you it can't read the bin file to start the car. Try reburning it. HTH

 

yeah I think I am going to try and throw in that other base map with the three bar map and see if it goes away...

 

If the ECU is hondata prepped and they cut jumper J12 as hondata reccomends, you will NOT be able to pull CELs via the service connector.
-PHiZ

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PHiZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If the ECU is hondata prepped and they cut jumper J12 as hondata reccomends, you will NOT be able to pull CELs via the service connector.
-PHiZ</TD></TR></TABLE>

Cool. Didn't know that.

 

wow really?

 

The way that I understand it, J12 is responsible for full/half duplex operation on the CN2 port.

When you cut it to enable full-duplex (and greater hondata interface reliability), you are "hijacking" what would usually be used to drive the CEL.

If I'm incorrect, I welcome a correction. Or if someone can test it out real quick...

-PHiZ

 

I need a new base map. does anyone know where I can get one?

 

so the 3bar worked without a light?

 

this is nigel...

I got the basemap to work, and the cel went off and it idled perfect and warmmed up smoothe, and then I started playing with the gas and revving it up and down, and then the rpm's got stuck at 5000 and every time I start it it goes straight to 5000.

what the hell do I do. I am confuesed does it have anything to do with wide open throttle shifts?

any help will kick ***!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PHiZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The way that I understand it, J12 is responsible for full/half duplex operation on the CN2 port.

When you cut it to enable full-duplex (and greater hondata interface reliability), you are "hijacking" what would usually be used to drive the CEL.

If I'm incorrect, I welcome a correction. Or if someone can test it out real quick...

-PHiZ</TD></TR></TABLE>

My P28 doesn't have J12(we took it out) and I can still pull codes via the service connector..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I got the basemap to work, and the cel went off and it idled perfect and warmmed up smoothe, and then I started playing with the gas and revving it up and down, and then the rpm's got stuck at 5000 and every time I start it it goes straight to 5000. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Huh?
The only way this could happen is if ther was enough air going into the engine to keep it at 5000 RPM... sounds like the TB is stuck open, or you have a real bad leak (like PVC valve off), or you plugged somthin in wrong (like swapping the MAP/TPS plugs).

The 2-stage shift limiter has nothing to do with this- it looks for the clutch signal and re-sets the rev limiter to a lower level when the car is moving (VSS sensor &gt;0 mph).

If you don't get a CEL then stat by checking the TPS voltage when the TB is closed (should be 0.45-0.47 VDC)... if that's ok, start looking for leaks!