HKS SSQ Bov internal construction problem?
#1
HKS SSQ Bov internal construction problem?
So one day the secondary valve in my bov stopped popping off, leaving only the softer low volume flutter. I can hear some minor compressor surge when boosting, so it's something I would like to get fixed asap. I have the older ssq design with the adjustable screw that does absolutely nothing..
I've taken the bov apart to see if there was any noticeable damage to actuator, valve seats or diaphragm and didn't notice anything, except.. the small vacuum line shaft that is inserted in the rear cover (when removed exposes the diaphragm) seems to be pressing into the rubber diaphragm when the cover is bolted down, thus plugging it up. It's almost like it's pressed into the rear cover too far.
The ssq acts on "a change pressure" according to HKS, and not on boost pressure coming from the cold pipe, to open the valve. So, if my valve is only opening a little, that means I don't have a significant enough change in pressure to pull that actuator back and open it completely. I also noticed a small circular mark on the rubber diaphragm where the vacuum nipple has been pressing up against it.
Any thoughts? Has anyone taken their ssq apart and noticed this too? How much of a gap is there between the base of the rear cover and the bottom of this small tube? The base of my tube is flush with the base of the cover, therefore leaving no room between the tube and rubber diaphragm that the cover holds down. It's almost like my tube got pressed in somehow.. but I can't see a way it was and it seems to be in there pretty tight. I'm thinking of cutting a small section off or pounding it back out, but I'd rather not ruin it if it's suppose to be that way.
Thanks!
Modified by boostednlinefor at 10:05 PM 6/13/2006
I've taken the bov apart to see if there was any noticeable damage to actuator, valve seats or diaphragm and didn't notice anything, except.. the small vacuum line shaft that is inserted in the rear cover (when removed exposes the diaphragm) seems to be pressing into the rubber diaphragm when the cover is bolted down, thus plugging it up. It's almost like it's pressed into the rear cover too far.
The ssq acts on "a change pressure" according to HKS, and not on boost pressure coming from the cold pipe, to open the valve. So, if my valve is only opening a little, that means I don't have a significant enough change in pressure to pull that actuator back and open it completely. I also noticed a small circular mark on the rubber diaphragm where the vacuum nipple has been pressing up against it.
Any thoughts? Has anyone taken their ssq apart and noticed this too? How much of a gap is there between the base of the rear cover and the bottom of this small tube? The base of my tube is flush with the base of the cover, therefore leaving no room between the tube and rubber diaphragm that the cover holds down. It's almost like my tube got pressed in somehow.. but I can't see a way it was and it seems to be in there pretty tight. I'm thinking of cutting a small section off or pounding it back out, but I'd rather not ruin it if it's suppose to be that way.
Thanks!
Modified by boostednlinefor at 10:05 PM 6/13/2006
#2
Re: HKS SSQ Bov internal construction problem? (boostednlinefor)
Okay, I took some pictures to better illustrate what I'm talking about.
Here is the bov with the front outer cover removed and the rear cover still on.
Here is the bov with the rear cover (with the vacuum tube nipple) removed
Here is a close up of the diaphragm. Notice the small circular indentation in the rubber at about 12 o’clock?
Here is a close up of the rear cover with how far the vacuum tube nipple protrudes inside. You can see that it's practically flush with the bottom of the plate and why it is being pressed against the rubber diaphragm.
Here is the bov with the front outer cover removed and the rear cover still on.
Here is the bov with the rear cover (with the vacuum tube nipple) removed
Here is a close up of the diaphragm. Notice the small circular indentation in the rubber at about 12 o’clock?
Here is a close up of the rear cover with how far the vacuum tube nipple protrudes inside. You can see that it's practically flush with the bottom of the plate and why it is being pressed against the rubber diaphragm.
#3
Re: HKS SSQ Bov internal construction problem? (boostednlinefor)
this happened to mine but the diaphram was actually torn in the same spot. funny **** about it is the knock off ssqvs have thicker seals, and the knock off my buddy has never had this issue.
I just swapped out the seal from a knock off one on mine and it was good to go
I just swapped out the seal from a knock off one on mine and it was good to go
#4
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Re: HKS SSQ Bov internal construction problem? (boostednlinefor)
u get what u pay thats not a hks that skh to fix the problem get a new one or buy mine
#5
Re: HKS SSQ Bov internal construction problem? (spoon95eg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoon95eg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">u get what u pay thats not a hks that skh to fix the problem get a new one or buy mine
</TD></TR></TABLE>
untrue, mine was a true hks ssqv i bought like a couple years ago, and it messed up last season. my buddys is a fake one and over a year old with no issues
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untrue, mine was a true hks ssqv i bought like a couple years ago, and it messed up last season. my buddys is a fake one and over a year old with no issues
#7
mine is the previous model with the adjusting screw that does nothing, but genuine.
I'd like to avoid "just" buying a new one if there is a way to fix what i currently have. If I do get a new bov, I'll prob go with the new greddy type rs.
b16hybridsol - did you bov start doin the same thing im talking about (the only opening the smaller valve)? how did you swap them out? i've been playing with it and cant figure out a good way to get that 21mm bolt off.
Modified by boostednlinefor at 11:02 PM 6/13/2006
I'd like to avoid "just" buying a new one if there is a way to fix what i currently have. If I do get a new bov, I'll prob go with the new greddy type rs.
b16hybridsol - did you bov start doin the same thing im talking about (the only opening the smaller valve)? how did you swap them out? i've been playing with it and cant figure out a good way to get that 21mm bolt off.
Modified by boostednlinefor at 11:02 PM 6/13/2006
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#8
Re: (boostednlinefor)
honestly i think i just used vise grips on the shaft to get the nut off. just be careful and have a file handy just in case.
It was doing the same thing you discribed though
It was doing the same thing you discribed though
#9
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Re: (b16hybridsol)
couldnt you just trim the nipple that protrudes past the housing into the diaphragm? that way it wont be resting up against the rubber gasket.
i think im experiencing the same problem with my legit HKS SSQV
i think im experiencing the same problem with my legit HKS SSQV
#10
I could, but I wanted to find out from others if that nipple is really suppose to be there or not before I go hackin away at it and find out it was something else I should have been trying to fix.
I talked to HKS yesterday and they said the adjustment screw does nothing and once someone plays with the screw it can "mess up the valves. That's why we just got rid of the screw on our latest design." That may or may not relate to this.. just thought it was interesting.
I talked to HKS yesterday and they said the adjustment screw does nothing and once someone plays with the screw it can "mess up the valves. That's why we just got rid of the screw on our latest design." That may or may not relate to this.. just thought it was interesting.
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Re: (boostednlinefor)
I vote for grinding the metal tube inside the housing a tiny bit so its no longer touching the seal
but i have no experience with this just seemed like the most simple solution
but i have no experience with this just seemed like the most simple solution
#13
Got the **** reinstalled and took her for a test drive. It pops off, but makes a completely different noise. At first I thought I forgot to install the insert, but I checked and it's in there. It has a sharp piercing sound followed by a loud and then tappers off to a soft rush of air. I'm holding boost fine.. in fact it hit 8psi when it's normally set to 7. It still feels just as strong as always.
I'll try to record the sound tomorrow for you all.
Interesting.
I'll try to record the sound tomorrow for you all.
Interesting.
#14
#17
Re: (Mr. Vapor)
Fitti - Turn signal reminder?? The bov popped off like a quick wistle at 16 seconds into the vid. I had the turn signal on when I got up to that light like 10 seconds later.
Mr. Vapor - Yes, I cut the nipple down a few mm on the inside of the housing.
I'll see if I can mount a flashlight and the video camera under the hood and tomorrow. I also noticed the valve seat is closed at idle, but if I give it some light throttle from under the hood, the valve retracts itself a little.. So I'd like to know if it's leaking while driving or under boost.
Mr. Vapor - Yes, I cut the nipple down a few mm on the inside of the housing.
I'll see if I can mount a flashlight and the video camera under the hood and tomorrow. I also noticed the valve seat is closed at idle, but if I give it some light throttle from under the hood, the valve retracts itself a little.. So I'd like to know if it's leaking while driving or under boost.
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Re: (boostednlinefor)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostednlinefor »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Fitti - Turn signal reminder?? The bov popped off like a quick wistle at 16 seconds into the vid. I had the turn signal on when I got up to that light like 10 seconds later.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah I know I was being a smart ***.
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Yeah I know I was being a smart ***.
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