who said anything about closed or open decks? most the comparions made were about solid iron blocks (mitsu) vs. non solid iron blocks (honda).
also explain your reasoning that hondas have a shitty piston design.

 

SUP JOE!!! Hahaha I got something comin for you son!!!!


Tony... Ring placement on Honduhs suck ***... Engaging you is a waste of energy... Go cite some **** youre going to regurgitate from elsewhere... Figure out why for yourself. Tryiong to explain **** to you is a waste of my time.

So... WHat are YOU making on pump gas??? Otherwise STFU

KTHXBYE



Modified by extralargenog at 11:43 PM 11/11/2008

 

Different octane is available as "pump" for different areas. In socal, our highest octane pump gas available at local gas stations is 91. I am making 476 whp, 323 tq @ 17.4 PSI on a GT37R fully built GSR with Golden Eagle HD sleeves (closed-deck design) on 91 octane and running strong

 

yah CA only gots 91 at the pump


O yah and i believe jeremy from redzone in fremont CA

made around 525 whp on a DD with 91 octane

 

about half the station here have cut back to 91, mobil and some others still have 93. e85 is on the pump here everywhere though and cheaper than anything.

you can find some 110 on the pump a short drive from here.

 

Theres a station up ghere CENEX that has 94 on the pump... Ive never run it, but it costs no more than 92... Im thinking its got a **** ton of ethanol in it...

 

the new set-up is not done yet and im only shooting for 450whp on pump nothing special im a broke *** college kid besize honda theft in my area is way to bad. oh an thanks for random flame attack out of nowhere i really do appreciate it . also the fact that you think motors that are built for N/A from the factory should have thicker ringlands to accomendate FI is just really genious on your behalf.

 

You = fail.

Fitting.


OBVIOUSLY you cant read... I didnt say thicker ringlands anywhere dumbass... Youve been a douchebag since day 1, looks like not only are you improving on that , but that you lack fudamental skills keeping you from making any progress in becoming relative here.

Your mom must be proud.


Oh by the way broke *** college kid... ITS [freak]ING GENIUS. Genius.

Proof you should drop out and fail merely here. Quit wasting your money on school..... Your knowledgabilities, basic education and VAST experience building **** thats fast on ANY platform surely surpass mine.


KBAI

KTHXBYE



Modified by extralargenog at 10:10 PM 11/12/2008

 

NOT TO ARGUE, but what do you think of the 4G63 ring "placement" compared to the B16 and H22 ring "placement" ? AGAIN NOT TO ARGUE

4G63 STOCK

 

I gotta disagree... All the sleeved blocks I have encountered never ran right... Some obviously had sleeves sank (including my own sleeved block back in '01). A close friend of mine kept having headgaskets issues every year or so and it's on a nice "headgasket-replacement-schedule" every winter season to keep it fresh. And some of those sleeved blocks eats coolant somehow but not severe enough to tear it down or contaminate the oil to cause a problem... All of the sleeved blocks I have encountered and tuned run hotter than my Dart block (which we know, Dart block has larger coolant passages near the top of the deck + other improvements).

And lastly, no one is crazy enough to have a Dart block, and log the coolant temps on the dyno, and a probe on the cyl head and one at the lower block plug to check to see how well coolant is circulating and transferring heat. I don't have proper data to display, but I have scattered data which shows every sleeved block I have tuned on my dyno would run hotter at the head, but cooler at the block; but the head stays hot for so much longer on a sleeved block. The pattern is there, but I am lacking the 100% homerun by swapping a sleeved block into my Integra and do a direct temperature comparision...lol The info I have currently does tell me a lot already though.

And finally, I haven't ran into a sleeved block locally that has as much mileage on the motor as mine yet. I was one of the only guy who had a built Honda good enough to drive a fully built block as my daily driver for 5 years in a row and still showing up to work on time. My motor now has about 60000-61000miles on it, and it was my primary weekend/track car as well before I had the Supra since late '06.

I think it's worth every friggin dollar for the Dart when big money is at stake for a full motor build, and I know my Dart block will never fail me.

 

isnt your dart block sleeved ? i have yet to see any company offer a solid block like the 4g63. also how much hotter is a "xxx" sleeved block compared to a dart ?

oh an whats up with your web site i cant get on


Modified by tony413 at 2:51 AM 11/13/2008

 

Dart block is also sleeved, but the entire block was designed to accept the sleeves along with other improvements. That means no cracked block near where the sleeves sit, no leakage, no uneven deck surfaces or sleeves shifting, etc... I can't find the catalog anymore, but there was a list of improvements made for the block. Perhaps some engine builders can comment on this, but then there aren't too many guys running this block unless they had a sour experience with sleeved blocks like myself

 

I'd say there are hundreds if not thousands of people with sleeved blocks that DD their cars and have no problems whatsoever. Its all in the parts, build, and tune of the a car that makes or breaks it IMO, and in my experience. I'm not saying the dart design might not be stronger, but I'm personally willing to bet my motor will last me tens of thousands of miles because I put the right parts, time, and a great tuner with my build.

 

GE HD sleeved block here not 1 issue at all... Using OEM HGs No coolant pushing either. Not one bit. OVer 10K Beaten profusely... Half the time at over 20 PSI on good gas.

 

hopefully mike steps in to add more to this, i have not seen any benson block fail yet for any reason come to think of it.

 

I have seen video of one Benson block "Leaking" pressure. They were going nuts trying to find out what was going on, it only happened when the block was hot.

When the owner showed me the tape he asked that I didnt get into the particulars, and he still uses Dan (benson) for sleeving in additon to GE. MOST sleeve stories (bad ones) are regurgitated heresay however.....

It was from a semi local shop here in the NW. Its the only Benson mishap Ive heard of.... BUt ALL manufacturers have to have 1 or two.... **** happens. Benson of course took care of thew issue. He uses Proprietary Darton manufactured sleeves.


GE or BEnson are the only way Id go.

 

do you know what caused it ? uneven deck surface ? sleeve shift ? or HG not sealing, i know you said after the block was hot.

 

are we counting 93+ H2O\meth injection?

 

I am not knocking on any sleeving companies at all, although all the companies mentioned above had problems. The only issue being up here in Canada is the lack of support from sleeving companies because shipping the block back and forth across the border just isn't cost effective in fixing a potential problem that could be minor yet becomes worse over time. Unlike guys in the U.S., any problem can be easily solved because the shops are much closer and shipping is easy. So what I have personally seen over the years are sleeved blocks that never run right. Local shops doing the sleeving isn't any better either. Like I mentioned, aside from serious problems like severe leakage or sunken/shifted sleeves that has to be dealt with immediately, the minor stuff still remains but people still continue to drive the car as-is. Whether it is mysterious coolant loss, or a limited lifespan on a headgasket, or air keeps entering the coolant system over time. The stock sleeve craze is pretty retarded here, with guys trying to pushing over 450 WHP on stock sleeves on pump gas just to avoid sleeving a block and potential headaches.

 

yes post those numbers up also as long as it is included in your post that it was used with 93 or what ever pump gas was used

 

come on everyone there has to be some other big boys out there

 

why? did you bump this really why?

just go search and search other honda forums as well

 

because i wanted to, hows that sound

 

go search,ow did that sound?

 

one of my friends was running 28-33 psi or in the low to mid 400whp range with pump/meth in his evo. he tossed a rod through the block not too long ago. id say he got around 10k miles out of it with a ton of racing. stock block with arp main and headstuds. this was using a 20g.


ive made 425 on pump with a b16/gsr combo motor. timing was safe and afr was rich. 18 psi off a 60-1. the motor has seen just about 10k miles, 30 track passes and around 10 dyno pulls. i coulda got that setup to around 440 on that boost level with a more aggressive tune. i wouldnt want to push it too far, it leaves very little room for any error or mishap. plus as people have been saying, unless you've got nice boost control, its real useless on the street. with a regular michelin tire my car would spin all the way through 3rd if i romped it hard