Is it possible to have a b16 turbo p28 tuned with hondata/uberdata etc for low boost on daily driving like 7psi and when required turn the boost up to say 18psi with fuel/air/timing etc matched when the boost is raised, so basically the ecu has 2 boost map settings 1 for say 7psi and the other for like 18psi??

whats the best way to go about this any experiences??

 

HUH??? Yes you can do this, you will need a three bar map sensor to boost over 11 psi. tune the car at 18 psi, then you are good from 1 psi-18 psi

 

you havent understood what i meant ok let me think how to rephrase this...

basically when a car is tuned at say 7psi it has different fuel /ignition mapping/tuning then a car at 18 psi.
so is it possible to daily drive the car at 7psi and when required to race/track etc wth a flick of the switch you are at 18 psi with a ecu that is mapped/tuned for 18psi...

any clearer

 

The 7psi part of the map is a subset of the 18psi map. If the maps are calibrated properly for 18psi, then it'll also be good for 7psi.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IN VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The 7psi part of the map is a subset of the 18psi map. If the maps are calibrated properly for 18psi, then it'll also be good for 7psi.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly, and same with the timing....hell if you have a built engine go ahead and get your desired horsepower then you can run any boost under what you tunned at .

 

in other words there isnt a 7psi and 18psi map. its just one map at 18psi and you are free to run anything under 18psi and it will still have perfect a/f so tune for 18psi, then when u run 7psi it will be perfect

 

Yes. You tune to where you need to tune to in your boost maps.

 

ahh o.k i understand. thanks for your replies

i need to learn more about how to tune the car and modify boost/fuel maps just havent got the time. where can i start??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by f1 vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ahh o.k i understand. thanks for your replies

i need to learn more about how to tune the car and modify boost/fuel maps just havent got the time. where can i start?? </TD></TR></TABLE>

a good board for diy tuning is http://www.pgmfi.org, good **** but just be warned they dont liek newbie questions, so read the wiki first (u learn what the wiki is in good time)

 

I would look into the following.

* Building & Tuning High Performance Electronic Fuel Injection by Ben Strader
* https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=979788
* https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=846069

Not allot but a good start.

 

thx im gonna have to get my head down and do some reading

 

You don't need to change your ECU calibration. The ECU and boost maps take into account your fueling and timing setup. Like it matches your injector size to the size of your turbo. YOu need to make sure you have a boost progressive fuel pressure regulator (i.e. aeromotive 70psi or higher)...which will automatically adjust to the boost. Nomatter what psi, your injector, turbo size, etc. will still be the same...the ecu will automatically calculate the map and multiply the numbers accordingly. It's like an equation that you just plug in any boost. It is important that you maintain a knock sensor so that if you do detonate at high psi, your ecu can set back the timing to compensate. Once you steup the ecu to work with your turbo size, injector size, etc...you jsut switch the boost to whatever level you want.

 

does this mean that i can turn my boost up to 10-11 psi lets say from where im at now (about 8.7 psi)? without retuning? &lt;&lt;&lt;--- hondata tuned

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J337_UNIT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does this mean that i can turn my boost up to 10-11 psi lets say from where im at now (about 8.7 psi)? without retuning? &lt;&lt;&lt;--- hondata tuned</TD></TR></TABLE>

no it means since your at 8.7 you can turn it down to lets say 5 psi.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by donkiman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

no it means since your at 8.7 you can turn it down to lets say 5 psi. </TD></TR></TABLE>

gotcha

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 87GolfKart &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You don't need to change your ECU calibration. The ECU and boost maps take into account your fueling and timing setup. Like it matches your injector size to the size of your turbo. YOu need to make sure you have a boost progressive fuel pressure regulator (i.e. aeromotive 70psi or higher)...which will automatically adjust to the boost. Nomatter what psi, your injector, turbo size, etc. will still be the same...the ecu will automatically calculate the map and multiply the numbers accordingly. It's like an equation that you just plug in any boost. It is important that you maintain a knock sensor so that if you do detonate at high psi, your ecu can set back the timing to compensate. Once you steup the ecu to work with your turbo size, injector size, etc...you jsut switch the boost to whatever level you want.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry kid do some reading (being nice) I think you are using FMU from what it sounds like. That is by far the WORST engine managment for turbo cars. You are essentially forcing more fuel into the injectors at a set PSI...VERY VERY BAD and can lead to injector failure. That's why FMU setups don't go over 7 PSI because the fuel pressure can go over 100PSI!!! Stock knock sensors can't detect **** on high frequency, so throw that out! Using Uberdata/hondata/aem EMS is the best becuase you can advance or retard timing in each cell value and the fuel as well not some rising rate **** or moving the dizzy around!

In an FMU setup the ECU does NOTHING different so don't say it ADJUSTSD (you don't know what you are talking about...sorry)

God I hate when people blabber and don't say things correctly or make up ****...sorry not trying to be hostile, but please don't say things that are just OBVIOUSLY untrue and that can easily be proven wrong

 

Thanks for the lecture, professor, but no candy for you...sounds like you're the one that's blabbering BS...or prolly spitting out what other have said w/out knowing the context of the thread.

Let see...the guy who started the thread says "tuned with hondata/uberdata etc for low boost on daily driving like 7psi and when required turn the boost up to say 18psi with fuel/air/timing etc matched when the boost is raised"

And I said "You don't need to change your ECU calibration. The ECU and boost maps take into account your fueling and timing setup. Like it matches your injector size to the size of your turbo."

Now where did I say "stock ecu" in here? Where did I say FMU? Theme of the thread is about tuning his hondata/uberdata. I'm no Honda expert, I don't own one, but as far as I know, the Hondata is a system that piggyback to the stock ecu. OK maybe I didn't make it clear by saying "piggyback." I was talking about the piggyback and ecu as the whole package.

Why in the world would I say "The ECU and boost maps take into account your fueling and timing setup. Like it matches your injector size to the size of your turbo." How the heck can you program a non-turbo ecu to recognize the turbo size or injector size? You either do it with a piggyback or a custom chip. Also, if you're running stand alone like Haltech or whatever, then that engine control module would be like your "ecu." It's all relative.

You also said " Stock knock sensors can't detect **** on high frequency, so throw that out!" Where did I say "stock sensor?" You gotta be kidding me if you say not to run a knock sensor at all.

All I was saying is that, you map the injector size, turbo size, etc... into the piggyback system or the custom chip. Then that is that. The MAP sensor detect the boost and it is used to work with the map. Therefore, nomatter if you're boosting 5psi or 10 psi or 15psi...it's all good. All you do is flip the switch on your boost controller. I have never seen anyone who flip the switch on their boost controller to a different level go out and take out their custom chip, and reprogram it, and put it back in. You just tune the map to the car's potential.

The only thing u worry about is fueling. Nomatter how effective is your piggyback and timing, not enough pressure will kill ya. It don't matter what level of boost you map it to, if you can't provide the actual fuel, you're dead meat. Thus why I mentioned the boost progressive fuel pressure regulator. The ecu only force as much a the ability of the injectors and fpr...and of course, you always run a larger injector.

It's basically what the other guy said, "hell if you have a built engine go ahead and get your desired horsepower then you can run any boost under what you tunned at."

The only time you recalibrate your map is when you do things sucj as switching the injectors or turbo size.
Thanks for schooling me...but I think you just went off topic.