Hey guess I've been trying to build an all motor B18c1 so of course it's high compression (12:1) my build so far is the head its a GSR head with skunk 2 springs and retainers for hi rpm Type R cams type R water pump RC 310 injectors block manifold gsr stock throttle body.. for the bottom and is a GSR block boarded to 82mm ( millimeter) cp piston polished crank all new seals GS. I want to boost my car. With that being said what steps should I do to convert back an keep the most power I have already in my car. I make 211whp now and I want to go for 300+hp with boost any help would be great.

 

Lower that compression a bit.

It could be done but with maybe race gas only. Im guessing this is a street driven car.

I never messed with thicker headgaskets to lower comp. so I wouldn't know anything about that.

 

Nothing, don't touch anything. Boost it as is.

 

This man has a high compression FI build thread, and knows what the **** he's talking about.

One minor adjustment, though: You do need to touch your injectors and fuel pump. Take them out, throw them away, and get some proper hardware. 310cc/min injectors will absolutely **** themselves at 200 BHP TC. You should be hunting down some 750cc/min injectors or larger for 350.

 

Can we get a little more In depth as to why?

I want to get into high comp setups. I know you bent your wrist pins but you were making lots of power.

For the op goal what would be the main points of focus besides fuel (octane, etc)

I know the tune needs to be done very cautiously.

Does engine assembly take a bigger role? Ring gaps? etc.

 

Running it on the road could work would be fine like this on pump fuel? I would have to run low psi and race fuel only? Or can I get a decent 8psi on 93 with upgraded injectors? I was always told I needed lower compression or my motor is going to **** on me

 

The compression doesn't make the motor **** on you, a shitty tune makes the motor **** on you.

 

so good tune recommendations for cerebral florida? I'm tuned by kings performance currently

 

Phearable is in your state. There ya go.

 

I know this is a little off topic, but are they good? I haven't heard much about them lately. Tampa based.

Also, OP, you can definitely boost 12:1 CR. I think there was a 13.5:1 build by Muckman or Tony just recently. It's possible. Just make sure the tuner knows your build. Don't assume anything and you'll be fine.

 

I must look more into muckmans build. So now the question I have now is is high como boost better than low?

 

Well. From what I remember, cause I read a thread about this not too long ago, the CR doesn't effect the spool time. But it will have an effect on how much power it makes at X psi. But you can just turn up the boost on lower compression and get the same numbers. Something like that. Lower compression just makes it easier to tune due to larger room for error. Sorta like E85. Gives you some more room to work with.

A good tune makes the difference.

 

I agree...throw some E85/Race Gas at it and have fun

Be careful with those 82mm sleeves unless they're aftermarket

 

so chances of running this high comp boost build it will only be smart run race gas? I still wan to daily but still want to run boost. Not possible?

 

Higher comp makes everything more efficient (more hp per psi). Its a battle of octane vs cylinder pressure. Cylinder pressure is a result of many factors, mechanical compression, manifold pressure, ignition timing, cam over lap etc. A lot of it is relative to those factors - in other words with more compression you wont need as much boost to make xx hp. For a street motor I think this combo is ideal as it will make more power out of boost where a street car will appreciate it.

And to answer your question about engine assembly - No I did nothing different really. The clearances and gaps were typical of a 600hp E85 engine, regardless of compression. I did ceramic coat the pistons but I don't feel that was necessary. I obviously missed the wrist pin upgrade but that was a result of too much torque for the light pin, not compression again.

I think low boost/high comp is no problem for pump gas. Talk to your tuner to get their opinion, some may not be comfortable tuning it. Obviously the tuner should be soft on ignition timing.

Consider this, on just 5.5psi @ 13.5 comp I made 350whp observed from a GT30R. That's extremely efficient.

 

my .02 is get injectors at least twice the capacity, if not three times.

 

Compression ratio is fine if you have a good tuner. Look into getting a water meth injection kit. This will help reduce the likelihood of detonation in your high compression boosted set-up, and allow you to run more timing. Good luck.

 

So I found a couple tuners I'm gonna get to talking to about tuning this project. Now when It comes to picking a turbo kit what variables should I be looking at when making my choice? I've never had a turbo car nor have I've had much experience. Size/trim/brand. Always done all motor builds an they come out pretty good.

 

what size should I be running?

 

1000cc IDs are common here. I have 750cc RCs with a similar HP goal. I picked em up because they were cheap.

As for a turbo kit. Greg at Go-autoworks is a good person to call. They will help you size the turbo and such. Garret makes a good turbo. There is another thread around here that is sort of similar. I have a T3/T4 Garret .57 trim 63 AR and it works good for the HP you are looking to make. It's simple and cheap. You may want a water cooled turbo though. There are an infinite number of turbo options for this power level. Someone else will chime in with more experience.

 

what kind of compression are you running? Just curious as to how similar out builds are

 

10.2:1 (much lower than your). Stock Gen 1 B16A. 93 octane pump gas. I was street tuning it before I get fed up with the software I had.

 

Lutz is in Tampa, I know they've tuned some high compression turbo motors.