FuNkDrSpOt

iTrader: (5)

Ok, I'm getting ready for winter break and turbo'ing my car. These are the pieces I've collected so far. I don't need insane amounts of power or control of the boost, as I'm only boosting to 6 PSI ( .4bar ).
I'm just looking for recommendations or, more importantly, If I've forgotten anything that I'll be needing to buy to install all of this. Also, tips on reliability would definitely be appreciated.

PS: don't comment on the direction that I went with the type of EMS. I wanted to fake being CARB legal and I can't do that with any other route.

<FONT COLOR="blue">Turbo Pieces so far</FONT>
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*Garrett T3/T4o3
*PeakBoost ramhorn mani & 3" dp/closed-loop dump tube
*44mm Wastegate
*BOV
*Intercooler & IC piping/couplers/t-bolt clamps
*550cc RC injectors & RC injector PnP harnesses
*Wideband
*Greddy E-manage Ultimate w/ boomslang PnP harness
*slim fans
* MeiFung oil cooler w/ Canton Mecca 6" oil filter and Mocal oil thermostat
*gauges: oil pressure, oil temp, boost and volt
*vacuum manifold
*stealthmode oil kit for turbo
*Walbro fuel pump
*exedy stg 1 clutch


<FONT COLOR="blue">Recommendations from others:</FONT>
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*Electronic Boost Controller
*oil flow restrictor
*ARP headstuds
*Aluminum radiator


Modified by FuNkDrSpOt at 6:24 AM 12/7/2006

FuNkDrSpOt

iTrader: (5)

So I'm not missing anything?

ProjectDarkBlack

ebc's are nice because they hold the wastegate closed until you get close to your set boost level, as opposed to springs that let it open prematurely, which means it will affect spool up. I would recommend some bits, ATP oil restrictor, metal wastegate gaskets, I also think the oil cooler is more trouble than its worth, it could create more issues than it solves. Also make sure you weld something going in to the oil pan, threaded might work ok too. I would prefer the Fast-turbo drain for your kit, I ended up
making the same thing with my own parts with the peakboost kit lol. Don't forget the standard issue Walboro 255 with the install kit. I was going to say up the boost and don't worry about a wideband too much, but with the bluebox it would do otherwise. Other than that, maybe try to order studs to replace bolts wherever posssible... I am taking everything off withing a month, if you need anything let me know..... I have the peakboost kit in my DC4 and I will sell most the parts including a decent 3" exhasut for a good offer. I have smog and I want to turbo ls my CRX

dizzyek

dump tube
catch can
walbro 255 hp
good 3' exhaust
aluminum rad
arps
clutch

FuNkDrSpOt

iTrader: (5)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ProjectDarkBlack &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ebc's are nice because they hold the wastegate closed until you get close to your set boost level, as opposed to springs that let it open prematurely, which means it will affect spool up. I would recommend some bits, ATP oil restrictor, metal wastegate gaskets, I also think the oil cooler is more trouble than its worth, it could create more issues than it solves. Also make sure you weld something going in to the oil pan, threaded might work ok too. I would prefer the Fast-turbo drain for your kit, I ended up
making the same thing with my own parts with the peakboost kit lol. Don't forget the standard issue Walboro 255 with the install kit. I was going to say up the boost and don't worry about a wideband too much, but with the bluebox it would do otherwise. Other than that, maybe try to order studs to replace bolts wherever posssible... I am taking everything off withing a month, if you need anything let me know..... I have the peakboost kit in my DC4 and I will sell most the parts including a decent 3" exhasut for a good offer. I have smog and I want to turbo ls my CRX</TD></TR></TABLE>

-I was thinking about the EBC but since I'm wanting low boost, I don't care enough to spend an EXTRA amount on that. I'm saving it for later

-oil restrictor comes with the stealthmode kit i think but if it doesnt I'll get it

-I already have the Walbro, forgot to list though

-I don't have the blue box, I have the Ultimate.

-The oil cooler was FAR more trouble than it's worth because I researched that I needed an oil Thermostat AFTER I already bought the Mei Fung kit. However, since the kit allows me to run an oil cooler, Canton Mecca oil filters and a thermostat, i don't see how that's not a great setup. I'll be running 190 F at all times=longer life engine

FuNkDrSpOt

iTrader: (5)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dizzyek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dump tube
catch can
walbro 255 hp
good 3' exhaust
aluminum rad
arps
clutch</TD></TR></TABLE>

-The DP comes with a closed-loop dump tube, forgot about that.

-A radiator at this point is out of my budget but I'm looking at it for the future.

-wtf is arps?

-I have an exedy stg 1 clutch sitting in my garage but I have yet to put it on, thx for reminding me though.

ProjectDarkBlack

sounds good, the oil cooler sounds like it will work good, however it will cause pumping
losses in the oil system (probably not enough to matter). the clutch will work great for 6psi, I beat the crap out of exedy stage one on 10psi so it will hold...

FuNkDrSpOt

iTrader: (5)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ProjectDarkBlack &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds good, the oil cooler sounds like it will work good, however it will cause pumping
losses in the oil system (probably not enough to matter). the clutch will work great for 6psi, I beat the crap out of exedy stage one on 10psi so it will hold...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I checked into that too, as far as the oil cooler and the guys over at hybrid Honda only saw a loss of about 3-5 PSI throughout. It seems to be pretty normal. I thought in the long run, having my temps at 180-210 vs 210-270 would far outweigh a max of 10 PSI.

0morgan@synapse motorsport

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FuNkDrSpOt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

-The DP comes with a closed-loop dump tube, forgot about that.

-A radiator at this point is out of my budget but I'm looking at it for the future.

-wtf is arps?

-I have an exedy stg 1 clutch sitting in my garage but I have yet to put it on, thx for reminding me though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hes reffering to arp headstuds, optional, might help save u from having any head lift or head gasket problems down the line. if it shows any signs of a HG going or head lifting def get a set of these.

FuNkDrSpOt

iTrader: (5)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybrdthry911 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

hes reffering to arp headstuds, optional, might help save u from having any head lift or head gasket problems down the line. if it shows any signs of a HG going or head lifting def get a set of these.</TD></TR></TABLE>

After I responded I thought that's what he was talking about but I thought I'd get clarification just in case. I actually have an engine rebuild planned either this Summer or next Winter but I don't know because my money's kinda funny at this point right now. I was going to keep the boost low so I didn't have to worry about stuff like that and then boost a tad bit more when I got the rebuild done.

I'm sure more than 1 of you thinks I'm a sissy but this is meant to be a DD. Not a "DD until it decides to explode", but a +100k DD. As you all know, I could probably get away with a lot more boost and power but more HP = less engine life.

ProjectDarkBlack

whatever works for you dude, I have my low boost at 7 and I use to run that for weeks straight without cranking it up. But when people say you will get used to it, you are right, I don't even notice it putting my back in my seat anymore unless I let of for a second, or when second gear grabs a little (hasn't happen since ambients temps have been below 90 lol). I don't know if headstuds would be necessary, stock B's seem to keep the head planted well, I put some in though. If you do get some get the GE or the
other ones (name brand, forgot) a lot of people have problems with ARP studs coming loose. Not cool when you have to take the cams out to tighten the stud itself

FuNkDrSpOt

iTrader: (5)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ProjectDarkBlack &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whatever works for you dude, I have my low boost at 7 and I use to run that for weeks straight without cranking it up. But when people say you will get used to it, you are right, I don't even notice it putting my back in my seat anymore unless I let of for a second, or when second gear grabs a little (hasn't happen since ambients temps have been below 90 lol). I don't know if headstuds would be necessary, stock B's seem to keep the head planted well, I put some in though. If you do get some get the GE or the
other ones (name brand, forgot) a lot of people have problems with ARP studs coming loose. Not cool when you have to take the cams out to tighten the stud itself</TD></TR></TABLE>

Strange, i've heard the exact opposite of the ARPs. I'd think it'd probably be that a lot more people have them come loose because a LOT more people run them.

FuNkDrSpOt

iTrader: (5)

anything else?

ragethemachine86

stage 1 clutch seems a bit weak for boost doesnt it? other opinions...

0morgan@synapse motorsport

its a possibility, if its unused might want to sell it for something a little stronger.

Importrev

I agree, you might want to step it up on the clutch. No sense in pulling the tranny again for something you can take care of the first go around.

FuNkDrSpOt

iTrader: (5)

anything else?