I have a 1990 teg and I just had the motor rebuilt so I am running S200B with precision 780cc injectors and 3bar map sensor and Jason conversion harness,the car starts but I took it for a drive and it bogs like carzy ,sometimes it cant rev pass 4000rpm and driving around town my egt goes up to 1500degrees it also backfires and miss,when I get to a stop light I have to keep my foot on the gas any suggestions would be great .

 

Sounds to me like you have a very shitty basemap. Keep in mind the basemaps that originally come with your hondata are to just allow the car to start and give you somewhat of a capability of driving it.

My basemap was horrible... the ignition timing was extremely advanced and the car not only bogged down on me but it constantly died on me. I ended up uninstalling the hondata, swapping in the stock injectors and then reinstalling everything once I got to the dyno to be tuned. So long story short, tune the hondata and you'll be fine. Until then, DO NOT go around boosting or you are asking for problems.

 

That is interesting my motor build was done by Joetech and he gave me a basemap I also have a base map from hondata I should try that who did your tuning because I have to break in the motor It pnly has 6 miles om it

 

Basemaps are good but all motors react differently. Jotech does know their stuff but you have to keep in mind if the basemap they gave you is not very similar to your setup, then it will not run that well. Another quick question... Are you throwing a code? Do you know what the boost cut is set at? There are a few other variables that can come into play in this equation so your best bet is to talk to kenny and tell him the specifics and hopefully he might find a quirk or 2 in the basemap that he gave you.

As far as egt's go, read this for some good info.
http://www.sdsefi.com/techegt.htm

The guys at balanced are VERY nice and will understand if you have to reinstall everything when you get there. Just tell them you are making a long commute and are not able to trailor your car there so you have to run your stock ecu/injectors since you have a poor basemap. Tell Ed that Anthony with the red prelude says hello.

 

I will speak to Kenny on Monday but I hope it is just the basemap and nothing else because I had to wire in a four wire o2 sensor and a obd1 distributor I will tell Ed hello for you.

 

Also need to mention it flashed the check engine light while driving and when I checked the codes it gave me two long flashes.

 

Did you try my basemap chip?

BTW, Your shiftlight is on the way.

Kyle


Modified by 2K_TEG at 2:35 AM 11/23/2003

 

No Kyle I will try yours tomorrow but like I said I am getting two long flashes which I was told mean CEL 20 not sure what it means but I already check that the distributor wires are correct I am only concern about the o2 wires i dont know if the car would run with incorrect o2 wires apart from that the car idles fine if I dont drive it,it only hunts on initial start up

 

Kyle hooked me up with a nice basemap .

 

never mind..I read the rest of the post.

 

he upgraded to OBD1

 

Are you sure your distributor is good?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dalepatters &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No Kyle I will try yours tomorrow but like I said I am getting two long flashes which I was told mean CEL 20 not sure what it means but I already check that the distributor wires are correct I am only concern about the o2 wires i dont know if the car would run with incorrect o2 wires apart from that the car idles fine if I dont drive it,it only hunts on initial start up </TD></TR></TABLE>


Hopefully it runs better with the other basemap

 

I will try another basemap and let you guys know

 

Dale, you know that in changing the distributor from obd0 to obd1, you can't just match the colors on the wires, right? If you match the colors then two of the sensors will be wrong. I don't remember which ones you have to swap, but if all your colors match then that's your problem. Good luck with it, hope this helps.

 

I spoke with him last night about the code 20, Electrical Load Detector. I told him last night he needed to check the altenator or the distributor since that is usually the case when throwing a code 20. I orininally thought it was the basemap but then when he mentioned he was throwing a code and a few other things I changed my mind. When you get the CEL fixed your car should run fine, if not then you might need another base map.

 

well, here is the problem, you CAN just match the color's of the wires. And then you can correct at the conversion harness, I believe this is the method documented on hasport's website.

Or you can match up the FUNCTIONS of the wires at the distributor, and have the crossover harness "true" to the original pinouts of both generations, let's call it a direct one-to-one correlation.

So it is dependant on the approach that the harness maker took.

I don't think it's a basemap problem at all, It really sounds like a wiring problem to me.

-PHiZ

 

Well tried the other base map and no luck the car idles irratic and sputters when you try to accelerate it also backfires.

 

well I swaped the white wires on the distributor and no help

 

dale, sometimes if the hondata clip that you solder on the ecu is not in correctly it will only rev to 4,000 rpm. I know that sometimes when the box is not working it will do the same as well.

 

Considering trying it with a stock ecu, and seeing what kind of CELs you get??
Just an idea, to aid in troubleshooting.
-PHiZ

 

Thanks guys I am going to recheck the ECU

 

What happened when you did the timing?

 

Well the verdict I put back the stock ecu and stock injectors the car still did not run,then I put back my stock map sensor the car runs fine so I think the 3 bar map is wired wrong or it is just bad from stock I am also goingto try the chipped ecu with my 780cc and the 2 bar map and see what happen.