sony224422

I have a d15 with a y8 head on it.

I did a compression test and it was all perfect across the board, no leaking or burning of oil or anything.

I am trying to get a complete list of parts for my application.

So far i have..

D series turbo manifold
stock injectors, ( have volvo 310cc but don't know if they'd work)
boost gauge
intercooler and piping
exhaust
oil lines
MSD ingnition

I know i need more, but i don't know what to do for fuel managment.

I think i'd need..
new fuel pump
something to tune ( p28 with a chip from phearable.net)
obviously a turbo ( what size)

I am looking to make around 175-200 whp.

Future upgrades might include new cam, cam gear, better valves and retainers.

Civicman86

are you on a budget? almost any turbo will get you that powr goal, I would go with something small that will spool almost instant. Beware though boost is addicting, that 200hp can turn into wanting 300-400-500+.

Its suggested to upgrade to a better fuel pump. Walbro255hp is a good pump to use for cheap.

Buy a p28 and have it chipped, there are alot of freeware programs to use (uberdata, crome, etc) or you can run hondata, neptune, etc.

shifty35

Depending on what D15 block you are using, your compression is likely very high to extremely high. I probably wouldn't recommend boosting a setup like that, but I'm sure it's been done.

It would just be very hard to tune any decent amount of boost with pump gas.

sony224422

its a d15b8 block.

sony224422

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Civicman86 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you on a budget? almost any turbo will get you that powr goal, I would go with something small that will spool almost instant. Beware though boost is addicting, that 200hp can turn into wanting 300-400-500+.

Its suggested to upgrade to a better fuel pump. Walbro255hp is a good pump to use for cheap.

Buy a p28 and have it chipped, there are alot of freeware programs to use (uberdata, crome, etc) or you can run hondata, neptune, etc.</TD></TR></TABLE>

im not totally on budge, but i make $200 a week and im in college so the cheaper the better, but i don't want to run shitty componets.

How would i tune with crome..?
and would i be able to use the 310 injectors?

1995Civic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sony224422 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its a d15b8 block.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ah man...the CX block. That sucks lol.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sony224422 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

im not totally on budge, but i make $200 a week and im in college so the cheaper the better, but i don't want to run shitty componets.

How would i tune with crome..?
and would i be able to use the 310 injectors?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Make sure you take your time, and get everything in order before you attempt to boost. Dont try to rush anything, and you need to do your research on these components.

You dont tune w/ Crome, that's what a tuner is for You get a P28 ecu (possibly OBD2-OBD1 Conversion Harness, not sure w/ the Y8 Head), and have it chipped w/ Crome Pro. Simple.

310cc Injectors will work, however like Civicman86 said...that 200whp will turn into wanting more. So keep that in mind before you chip this ecu for 310's. RESEARCH a ton, and determine what you think you will be most happy with.

sony224422

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1995Civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Ah man...the CX block. That sucks lol.

Make sure you take your time, and get everything in order before you attempt to boost. Dont try to rush anything, and you need to do your research on these components.

You dont tune w/ Crome, that's what a tuner is for You get a P28 ecu (possibly OBD2-OBD1 Conversion Harness, not sure w/ the Y8 Head), and have it chipped w/ Crome Pro. Simple.

310cc Injectors will work, however like Civicman86 said...that 200whp will turn into wanting more. So keep that in mind before you chip this ecu for 310's. RESEARCH a ton, and determine what you think you will be most happy with. </TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks for the advice.

I'm only doing this for a weekend car, and yes it is a CX. Its light as hell though, a friend and i picked up the back end of it and proped it up to work on it.
I'm going to build what i deem enough, and send my parts list to phearable.net to have him tune for me.
I don't want to build the block, so im going to stay around 200 so i don't have any problems.
I don't think i need a harness for the y8 head, its just a mini me swap

HiProfile

If you're keeping the d15 block stock, I won't go much over 200whp.

If that was the case, mostly any T25 will get you that much if you push it to 14-15psi, although you can't go wrong with the cheapness & power of a 50trim T3 (volvo .42/.48). Pick based on your manifold's flange. After that, get a p28 (or p06 converted w/vtec), find a Crome tuner who knows about the y8 head's funny ignition maps, then get $15 2.5bar motorola/freescale MAP sensor so you can push the turbo past 11psi (up to 22psi if you really wanted!).

As for the 310's, you'll be maxing them out at around 200whp. If you incease the fuel pressure 10psi & get a walbro pump, you might see a bit more. I'd suggest getting DSM 450cc's, as you can find them from $25-50 all over.

The other upgrade would be the trans. The CX trans is a big step down from a DX, and especially an EX trans. The FD is the biggest culprit, 3.250 vs 4.058 vs 4.25 for CX/VX vs DX/LX vs EX/Si.

sony224422

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you're keeping the d15 block stock, I won't go much over 200whp.

If that was the case, mostly any T25 will get you that much if you push it to 14-15psi, although you can't go wrong with the cheapness & power of a 50trim T3 (volvo .42/.48). Pick based on your manifold's flange. After that, get a p28 (or p06 converted w/vtec), find a Crome tuner who knows about the y8 head's funny ignition maps, then get $15 2.5bar motorola/freescale MAP sensor so you can push the turbo past 11psi (up to 22psi if you really wanted!).

As for the 310's, you'll be maxing them out at around 200whp. If you incease the fuel pressure 10psi & get a walbro pump, you might see a bit more. I'd suggest getting DSM 450cc's, as you can find them from $25-50 all over.

The other upgrade would be the trans. The CX trans is a big step down from a DX, and especially an EX trans. The FD is the biggest culprit, 3.250 vs 4.058 vs 4.25 for CX/VX vs DX/LX vs EX/Si.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats what im looking for. I forgot to mention i have the z6 tranny that im going to put in when i'm doing the head.

Should i upgrade the clutch, i think its fairly new, and it doesn't slip at all now.


As for the 310's, i have them already, i got them for free. I would like to know more about the volvo parts, because my roommate is a huge volvo fanatic and he has a bunch of parts laying around, even some stock turbo's. We were going to use one, but we couldn't find a flange to fit a manifold that would bolt on. I don't actually have the manifold, I was going to order it today but if theres a way to do it with the volvo turbo's i'd like to.

And i have a question about tapping the oil pan. I know you do it up high, but do you have to weld it in there or what?

where can i get one of those map sensors.. and does it have to be programmed?

sony224422

bump for some more answers. I'm trying to get everything together before i install

sony224422

still searching..

1995Civic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sony224422 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

thats what im looking for. I forgot to mention i have the z6 tranny that im going to put in when i'm doing the head.

Should i upgrade the clutch, i think its fairly new, and it doesn't slip at all now.


As for the 310's, i have them already, i got them for free. I would like to know more about the volvo parts, because my roommate is a huge volvo fanatic and he has a bunch of parts laying around, even some stock turbo's. We were going to use one, but we couldn't find a flange to fit a manifold that would bolt on. I don't actually have the manifold, I was going to order it today but if theres a way to do it with the volvo turbo's i'd like to.

And i have a question about tapping the oil pan. I know you do it up high, but do you have to weld it in there or what?

where can i get one of those map sensors.. and does it have to be programmed?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would definitely put in a new clutch w/ that z6 tranny. I have the z6 tranny w/ my single cam turbo, and my stock clutch is starting to slip like a bitch on 6 psi. However, I have the Exedy Stage 2 clutch going in shortly w/ my new built motor.

When you tap the oil pan, make sure to do it right under the "lip" of the oil pan so it has enough room to flow...if it's too low, you will have oil sitting in there and foam start. Yes, it's highly recommended that you weld the Oil return bung in...they have a piece (from Stealthmode) where you can just screw it in, but I dont trust that ****.

sony224422

thanks, i know how to do that now.

what does the 2.5bar motorola/freescale MAP sensor do?

1995Civic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sony224422 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks, i know how to do that now.

what does the 2.5bar motorola/freescale MAP sensor do?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Im not exactly sure how to explain it (lack of knowledge in this department) since I havent gotten to this stage of the game yet, but it allows you to increase the PSI you run since the stock Map only reads to 10.2 (something like that).

What I dont understand though, is that 1 Bar = 14.6 psi (I believe). Thats where I get lost

Edit: I wouldnt even worry about it, you wont need it.

sony224422

should i put one on just to be safe?

1995Civic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sony224422 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">should i put one on just to be safe?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope...no need.

An aftermarket MAP sensor is only needed for high boost applications / or over that 10.2 w/e PSI mark...you will be perfectly fine bro.

sony224422

ohh i get it. So if my boost goes over 10.2 psi then the sensor will freak out.


do i need another resistor box for the 310cc injectors?

HiProfile

The sensor can only report pressures of up to ~11.2psi to the ecu, over that it it still says 11.2psi. It should be able to not break at pressures well over 50psi, most solid-state pressure sensors have a very high max pressure rating.

The 2.5bar map would be used if you want to push the turbo farther. Most people here just get a bigger turbo and stick to 10-11psi max, rather than keep the faster-spooling turbo & raising the boost. The reason I suggested it is if you want 200whp, chances are you'll need more than 11psi on a d15+t3 combo. As far as making it work the the ecu, it depends on the tuner and the software you go with. With crome, you just select the different MAP, adjust the fuel/ign maps a bit, and you're set for tuning.

As for the injectors, it depends on how closely they match the stock injectors. If they are top feed with ~11mm o-ring on top and about the same size for the lower seal, they will work fine. Non-honda OEM 310's are sometimes peak&hold, sometimes saturated. Measure the two metal tabs inside the connector for the resistance - 7-12ohms means they will work w/o any modding, 1-3ohms means you need a resistor box installed.

As for the oil return, you can weld a bung in, or you can get a 2nd oil fitting/plate that you'd normally use on the turbo for the return. Drill the 3 holes to match it in the oil pan (in a spot thats perfectly flat), then make a bracket in ~1/8" metal to match the fitting. Bolt the return fitting to the outside, the plate to the inside, and seal it up with gray permatex silicone in between.

1995Civic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sony224422 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ohh i get it. So if my boost goes over 10.2 psi then the sensor will freak out.


do i need another resistor box for the 310cc injectors?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No you shouldnt.

That last post by HiProfile was a good explanation...im not too familiar w/ map sensors. Good lookin bro

shifty35

As for the map sensor ratings, the factory one is 1.75 bar. Since atmospheric pressure (@ sea level) is 1 bar = 14.7 psi, it can read up to .75 bar of boost. 14.7*.75 = 11.025 psi above atmospheric. Which is 11 psi boost / gauge pressure. It can also read pressures less than atmospheric, ie, vacuum, which is important for N/A and part throttle.

As for the 310s, I I tuned a Y8 with the Greddy Kit and Emanage on 310s - they were totally maxed out at 200 whp (stock fuel pressure).

sony224422

where does the oil feed line come from for the turbo?


Modified by sony224422 at 4:47 PM 5/4/2007