i just took my garret turbo off and sent it out for a rebuild...
so i threw on a ebay t3/t4 turbo and now its not boosting.

setup
gsr 10.1 cr
jg head package stage 2
old turbonetics deltage wastegate 9psi spring
2.5 in DP
2.25 charge pipes
JDM sport IC(small and knock off)
msd inline fuel pump

now i took off the fmu i had on it because i bought RC550's, and when i put em in and started the car up it fouled the plugs(gapped at .30), so i took em out and put the stock ones in. i know i need to have injectors but what fuel pressure should i be at, with the 550's?
ANYWAYS... now the car isnt boosting and puts out a lil white smoke at idle.... i have hondata s200 but havent takin it in fo a tune yet... i wanna get everything ready... its was boosting fine before ...wtf....
THANKS YALL

 

why are you beatiing on the car w/o atleast a base map?

you kinda seem like you dont know whats goin on.
so back away from the car or you will have melted pistons on your hands.

put the 550s in there. tow it to the tuner, and hope no dammage was done.

or at the very least get a 550 chip for a stock ecu.

 

So your ecu is technically stock, with no basemap

you can put in as big as injectors as you want,but without the ecu telling them what to do, they do nothing

as for the not boosting part, did u put the valve ring back in the waste gate?

no matter what it should boost, whether stock or not, it should boost, are there boost leaks?

 

no im running a map on a friends setups that is similar to mine.... i know there wont run the exact same but its a bossted hondata ecu map..
and for the valve ring, i didnt even see one on my wastegate when i took it off(deltagate).
so i put on a tial knock off but still no boost.i also noticed a tear in the deltagate diaphram. i know that cant be good.

the thing is i left for vacation and just got home a few days ago, the car was running fine... so when i got home i put in the 550s and took out the FMU. and now it wont boost.... the turbo spools nicely and my drain line isnt kinked and all the charge pipes are secure. i just got my hondata cables in the mail today so itll be goin to the shop for a tune pretty soon... like i said i wanna have everything on it when i take it in... the shops only about 4 miles from my house...

As for boost leaks i cant seem to find any. everything is hooked up correctly but NO BOOST thanks for all the input keep it coming please

 

ttt i need helppp lol

 

So its fully spooling but no boost? also can you freely spin the turbine and exhaust wheels

 

Oh, man you really need help. But you also need to help yourself. So many "not"s in this thread. I have heard a few things from you that really scare me and make me NOT wanna help you.......

1) You are running an fmu and do not know why/how it works.
2) You are running your car hard when it is not tuned.
3) You do not know some of the relatively basic information needed to know what you should/should not be doing.
4) You have not at least read through the faq's here so that you can help yourself some and in turn help us help you.
5) You are not listening to others (like boosted) who know a great deal more than you about this and yet still insist on posting again asking the same question(s) as before.

Here is what you should do:

1) Put the car keys down and slowly back away.
2) Give the keys to a friend who knows what he/she is doing or a reputable shop and give oral/pay them to fix your car for you.
3) Tow your car to the dyno and have your engine tuned.
4) Drive and enjoy your car.

OR

1) Put the car keys down and slowly back away.
2) Read at least the faqs and ask questions about what you don't know (AFTER READING THE FAQ's) so that we can help you understand what you are doing and prevent melted pistons/washed rings/blown engine of some sort.
3) Fix your car (as much as possible) prior to getting it tuned. Tuners hate using dyno time to fix your car. Remember they are wasting dyno time and worse (for you anyway) making $100-$150/hr to do so at YOUR expense.
4) Tow your car to tuner.
5) Drive your car and enjoy.

GL.

 

i do know why and how a fmu works why are you jumping to conclusions that i dont know what is what. and did you not rear my post... THE CAR WAS BOOSTING FINE BEFORE I SWITCHED TURBOS. so why all of the sudden will it not boost. im not puting my keys down and walking away **** that **** i know how a bossted car works.... this isnt my first. so quit talkin **** and lend a helping hand not another nagging effing mouth

 

if you are so sure its the turbo then why ask us. you shouldnt come on asking for answers and then ignore our advice. you may be very knowledgable about turbo cars but from your post it doesnt seem that way. i think keyser is simply trying to make a point that we see these same threads all the time, which basically make it sound like people are out there boosting on untuned or improperly tuned motors and wonder why the car is "bogging" "stalling" or smoking.

please give more details on your setup.
what ecu?
what engine management are your running on?: fmu or hondata, you cant have both
what injectors? you dont need to adjust fuel pressure based on size and you cant run 550's on a stock ecu

try to isolate one problem at a time, if you are getting a rebuild why even swap turbos, just wait for the old on to get back. changing turbos will change the tune anyways so thats conter-productive

 

1.Have you checked all your couplers to make sure there isnt a boost leak?
2.Does the turbo sprin free with out any hold ups
3.Check the wastegate to make sure it is opening and closing
4.Check Bov to make sure its not stuck open
Check these things and let us know

Trying to help but, please get the car tuned..just because your friends car is close to your setup doesnt work...Every motor is different and flows more or less...

 

i have hondata s200 with a boost map on it.
I took out the fmu when i put in the 550s.
im not running them both.
I wasnt sure about the fuel pressure with different injectors.

Wastegate is closed at idle, i dont have any cracks in my manifold. All my charge piping is on good wit tbolts, bov isnt stuck and the turbo spins with ease... Im check more when i get off work ill keep you guys updated. Thanks

 

now my wastegate is open at idle, but it turns out my manifold had a crack in it.
so i fixed the manifold and the wastegate is open at idle.... i have a tial style wastegate and i think it DOESNT have the fire ring in... so iprolly need one,
whos got a tial for sale with the fire ring for a decent price? im takin the knock off off eff this POS. ughh thanks yall you were a huge help

 

Going from what i read, you went through at least 3 different wastegates. As far as I know, the "fire ring" is just a fancy name for the gasket that seats between the wastegate and manifold. Now I don't know what you mean by the fire ring not being "in" the wastegate, unless you mean you just didn't put a gasket there. Idk why you wouldn't have one considering you don't want any leaking there other than the wg opening. BTW how did you go from have a closed WG to an open WG at idle?

 

The fire ring is a metal ring that goes around the wastegate valve, but you have to run a gasket in between the wastegate and manifold as well....Its possible vacum lines are hooked up wrong if its open and then closed at idle

 

ya check for vac leaks. my friend showed me a pretty cool trick for this also. just take a can of carb/brake clean and spray it where ever you could have a leak at a connection and listen for an engine shudder. if you get one, you havea leak.

 

I dont know why it is open now. my vac lines are ran like so.... compressor vac line to side port of wastegate... and thats its... besides the bov to the intake manifold....
my wastegate didnt come woth a fire ring i guess....

 

it doesn't matter where they're hooked up to. you can still have a leak so check it out.

 

Make sure the vacum lines are not cracked from being dry, from all the heat under the hood....

 

seems like the wastegate is just missing the ring. the valve is closed but without the ring there is still at gap regardless. that alone can cause the "no boost" issue