I plan on putting some barbed ends on this and using it as a boost controller is there anything bad about this type of a set up? Its a whitey psi regulator

 

It should probably work? I dont see why it wont?

 

Thats what the they call the MBC (Manual Boost Controller)..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by synik &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thats what the they call the MBC (Manual Boost Controller)..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not really its more of a psi regulator used for nonturbo applications its way cheaper than all that aftermarket crap so I figured they had some kind of advantage...

 

it obstructs the air flow, so it will be ahrd to let the pressure enough to go in and control boost... if it had some sort of bleed vlave on the side or something i beleive then if should be ok

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by USDM 4G VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it obstructs the air flow, so it will be ahrd to let the pressure enough to go in and control boost... if it had some sort of bleed vlave on the side or something i beleive then if should be ok</TD></TR></TABLE>

That makes sense but I was talking to someone at honda day and they said this is what they used to control their boost so I imagine it will work I just wanted someone with firsthand experience...I dont want to put this on and boost to high and blow up my motor.

 

thats how the turbonetics one works. tee off the vac line that is going to the bottom port of the wg. hook the peice inline between the t and the top port. if you want to have more boost... open the valve more. to turn it down, shut the valve.


Modified by ndogg at 2:10 PM 4/13/2004

 

Yup, looks the same as my turbonetics one. I don't think you should have a problem with spiking.

 

Something like that will work if you 'T' it into the boost line, so it becomes a variable bleed. It won't work anywhere near as good as one of the $20 MBC's you can get on ebay that use a ball-spring in-line with the boost line, and a tiny bleed hole beyond the ball. I did extensive testing on my racecar when I first set up my turbo, and there is a significant advantage to using the ball-spring type over a bleeder.

With a bleeder, you will have inconsistant boost at lower rpms. If you set it to a certain boost level at low engine accelerations (like 5th gear or dyno pulls), then you will get less boost at low rpms in faster engine acceleration situation (like 2nd gear). Peak boost may be ok, but it's the way it builds boost that is different. The ball-spring type keeps the wastegate completely shut until the pressure overcomes the spring and air starts to flow. With a bleed, the wastegate progressively opens as the pressure on it gradually increases until the peak when the FLOW out the bleed is at the point that you set it at.

There's a lot going on in a boost control system. It's not simply pressure in the boost line and nothing else. It's a flow issue, because there has to be a bleed of some sort. Also, the exhaust backpressure acting to open the wastegate is quite variable. A lot of what separates a well behaved turbo car from one that is unpredictable is what goes on during transient situations, like rapid engine acceleration in low gears.

-Chris

 

i just made my own boost controller (ball/spring type) from a local hardare store for under $5. It's working pretty good so far. I need to get a weaker spring though. Watch out u can get the boost up fast on these controllers. I hit almost .8bar by 4-4.5k rpms. I was trying to set it to .68bar

 

What size ends are those? Looks like the Muckman kit would work with this inline.