Topic says it all. Does anybody have a clue what it could be? Any help will be appreciated.

 

Probably too rich or lean. Mine was the same way until I got the fuel pressure and afc settings perfected....each car is different!

 

I tried fixing it by playing with the vafc. I guess I need to keep at it till I get it right. On another note, my clutch is slipping bad. What clutch do you guys reccomend?

 

You need to add fuel at idle. Try a -20% cut at idle and -40% everywhere else.
Clutch, Action Stage 2 KS =


[Modified by filetofit, 8:24 AM 9/28/2002]

 

I love the afc hack.... but because of it I have a code 13 ALL the time, reset it and it just comes back.... its not MAP code but BARO code, hopefully when I goto the dyno tomorrow and tweak out my afc settings it will go away.... but if not I'll just have to wait till I convert to obd1 and hopefully it will go away then.

 

hmmm, what does the BARO code mean? Does it have to do with the barometric pressure sensor built into the ECU. I don't understand why the hack would affect that. How's the idle? What kind of a cut are you running at idle?

 

Yes baro meaning sensor in ecu. It makes somewhat sense because the ecu takes the baro reading and the map reading and if they are WAY different then the ecu thinks the baro is broken... dunno why I would trip it even knowing this but...

Idle and driving is perfect. Cut was at first -35% at 1000rpms and -40% for the rest but now is about:
1000rpm is -36%
2000rpm is -38%
3000rpm is -38%
4000rpm is -36%
5000rpm is -36%
6000rpm is -36%
7000rpm is -36%
8000rpm is -36%
both hi and lo