I have been looking in to boosting my 95 integra 4 door and I want to see what you all would do. So here is my goal for either set-up Im looking to make 350 no less then 300 at the wheels. both motors with get a rebuilt bottom end. Stock head work no cams,valve train or anything like that. So which one would you do. The h2b on boost or a ls.vtec on boost.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by racer034life &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have been looking in to boosting my 95 integra 4 door and I want to see what you all would do. So here is my goal for either set-up Im looking to make 350 no less then 300 at the wheels. both motors with get a rebuilt bottom end. Stock head work no cams,valve train or anything like that. So which one would you do. The h2b on boost or a ls.vtec on boost. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I personally go with the h2b on boost.Just for the fact that h22 are pretty cheap and that they're a 2.2l.I can't just imagine how fast a sc61 would spool on that thing.The only thing that's a little pricey is the evolution or quartersports moon plate.I seen alot of people make around 400hp on there stock h22's.But I mean if you're going for like 350whp to the wheels. Why not go with a stock gsr.and run a nice manifold,downpipe,and t3/t4 setup.I seen alot of stock b18c1 even b16's reach 300whp safely.Ask Schister66 he knows more about this than I do.I just personally go h2b on boost.I think that with a sc61 and a built bottom would be just nasty.

 

If you're only looking for 350hp then the h2b is probably better since you will have more torque and a better powerband. The only downside i can see is if you wanna run AC and/or PS, the LS/VTEC will be much easier since your stock parts will bolt on without having to fab or buy adaptors. Not to mention the LS/VTEC will be cheaper due to not having to buy the H2B adaptor kit.

 

This car will have no ac or ps. Also i have a 93 accord and that has a h22 in it as will. So im just looking i can swap parts between the cars if need be. I would go gsr but b-series are like *** holes everyone has one. and yes h22's are cheap picked up my second one for 750 plus shipping

 

'Rebuilt' bottom end, I'd go with a b-series. 'Built' bottom end, I'd go H22. The ls/v will be much easier and cheaper. Both can do 350 w/o head mods, but 2.2L will obviously spool faster.

 

H-series are a much weaker engine design. They run sweet when you get all the bugs out of them, but between the H2B conversion and all the mucking about expect to have a lot more time and money invested to go as fast as a 300-350 whp B-series. Frankly, you're better off with a 300-350 whp D16 than an H-series.

 

Will i am seeing that alot of the h2b guys stay all motor havent seen to many on boost. But the car right know has an ls in it behind the gsr tranny so. Just go ls/vtec and boost it from there. Or just stay ls and boost it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by racer034life &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">havent seen to many on boost. </TD></TR></TABLE>

you'll see one soon

oh yea turbo H2B ftw!

 

Good luck. And, some advise? H-series oil pumps consume themselves before the oil pressure gets low enough to eat out the mains/thrusts. If the oil pressure seems a just a *little* low but there's no bearing material in your oil change or VTEC solenoid screen then hurry up and change the oil pump.

Bottom oillers FTL.

 

whats a little low?? when my motor is warmed up I got 20 psi of oil press. at idle (750rpm) is that the norm?

 

I'd stick w/ an LS/VTEC myself...H's aren't popular for a reason

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Schister66 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd stick w/ an LS/VTEC myself...H's aren't popular for a reason</TD></TR></TABLE>

the reason is, everyone would rather take the easier route but one can not deni the potential

 

i LOVE my h22

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88ED8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

the reason is, everyone would rather take the easier route but one can not deni the potential </TD></TR></TABLE>

If by easier route, you mean picking an engine that has an aftermarket backing so i can find parts, then i'll take it. My buddy Eric has a ~600whp built, sleeved H22 in the making and i know all about the BS he's gone through to get some of the parts he has for it. For what i'm going to need on the street, the B series will do me just fine. If i ever need to upgrade, i'll skip the H and head for K series.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88ED8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats a little low?? when my motor is warmed up I got 20 psi of oil press. at idle (750rpm) is that the norm?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Service grade mechanical gauges all reading a little different you could either be fine or be in for trouble. What you need to do is notice where the oil pressure is when cold vs when warm, especially at idle which is where H-series first start showing their ***, and as soon as it seems to dip slightly it's on it's way out. It's a degenerative thing and doesn't get better or fluctuate so you pretty much know after you've been through it once or twice.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88ED8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the reason is, everyone would rather take the easier route but one can not deni the potential </TD></TR></TABLE>

It's already a wrong wheel drive small displacement platform, you really think you need to make it any harder in order to prove something?

You should be building a Cavalier if you want a challenge... you know, one of the sweet older ones say pre-87 because running that sweet flowing aluminum head with canted valves is a form of cheating.

 

what parts did he have a hard time getting? H22's are not exactly rare, they have plenty of aftermarket support.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Schister66 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For what I'm going to need on the street, the B series will do me just fine..</TD></TR></TABLE>

I do agree with that, most people, including me, just about anything would do for the streets.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Joseph Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What you need to do is notice where the oil pressure is when cold vs when warm, especially at idle</TD></TR></TABLE>

at idle when cold it's 40+ psi if I remember correctly, but thanks for the tip

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Joseph Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's already a wrong wheel drive small displacement platform, you really think you need to make it any harder in order to prove something? </TD></TR></TABLE>

you lost me

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88ED8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

at idle when cold it's 40+ psi if I remember correctly, but thanks for the tip </TD></TR></TABLE>

Groovy, now make sure it stays at those levels over time.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88ED8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you lost me </TD></TR></TABLE>

You can still make out my taillights if you squint.


I'm only giving you a hard time because you like H-series, bro. Don't take it personally.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Joseph Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm only giving you a hard time because you like H-series, bro. Don't take it personally. </TD></TR></TABLE>

haha, I kind of figured that lol

honestly I don't have faith in any motor (B,D,F,H,K) unless they are FRESHLY built, you just never know

To the OP, who's looking to only make "350 no less then 300 at the wheels" either motor would do what you want but the h22 will do it with less boost and you will still have more tq....

 

Honestly i'd just take the ls and rebuild the bottom end and get a set of turbo cams for it. the vtec isn't going to make a huge difference if you have the turbo cams it's going to breathe better anyway. This would prevent you from paying a lot of money out on doing those set ups and will most likely last longer anyway.

 

H2b-T would be nastyyyy

 

going ls-t in this car cause. Cause I have looked more into the h2b its great and all but for the money boost is so much better on a b-series and its cheaper. I have been looking on honda-tech and have found more b-series turbo kits for dirt cheap then you will ever find an h22 kit complete. also. SLS's turbo kit with is 2300.00 thats the 500 more the an h22 longblock from hmotoronline.............

 

H2B (Gsr tranny) SC61= SEX
I would freaking drool over that set up.

H22, really suprise me with low boost power and torque at the same time.
Gsr/B16/ITR transmission, One of the best tranny Honda/Acura ever made.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Schister66 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd stick w/ an LS/VTEC myself...H's aren't popular for a reason</TD></TR></TABLE>
H22 is not popular for a reason? Yes, it is I hate to admit it but yes. Just beacuse Transmission... shitty trannys..... thats all. But thread starter said "h2b" H22 most power/torque motor plus honda/acura best tranny ever made... plus boost?!?!?!
SIckness.