Thewheelco

im looking at boosting my accord type r (im in the uk)

im going with the mahle gold series pistons ( 9.0:1) , not sure on rods yet, will be in a freshly built engine.

my main question is what psi of boost would i be safe running with the stock frm open deck block ?

when turboing these engines whats the weak point after the standard piston ringlands?

ive tried the search but with this being a A7 im struggling

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Follow the path of the H22a4, and Prelude. that will help you find your answers all over this forum and the FAQs.

Aradin

So there's a lot of misinformation in your original post.

To sum it up:

The stock rods are weaker than the stock ringlands. Ringland failure is 99% of the time a tuning failure.

Mahle golds are a dumb idea. You're gonna be sleeving the block and buying real pistons after 25-30k miles max once the coating wears off the Mahles and the engine runs so bad you can't drive it. Do it right the first time or you're opening yourself up to a host of problems and more money down the road.

That being said, if you don't do your own research and listen to what I just said and end up buying Mahles anyway(aka wasting your money), the FRM sleeves themselves are stronger than the iron sleeves of the same era. 400-450whp would be safe, 500whp would be getting sketchy. Potentially more depending on the age/health of the block and no overbores. Boost pressure doesn't matter.

Thewheelco

Thats great, i couldnt actually find out why everyone was saying the engines dont take boost well, but seems they would,

Im not wanting much more than 350-400whp

Would darton dry sleeves be worth it just to get rid of the frm liners ?

I have tried to do my own reserch but in the uk there are no turbo h22a7s.

And obviously no specific knowlage on here as you dont have the accord type r

Aradin

They take boost just as well as any other stock Honda engine with a good tune and efficient setup. There are multiple examples out there with 400whp+/- on bone stock longblocks. When built they are extremely potent.

You could do the dry sleeves but that would still effectively make that the weakest point in the engine. Although for 400whp it would work nicely when paired with a simple set of H beam rods and forged pistons.

Thewheelco

The thing is, if your saying the mahle golds will do say 20k miles , this car will be a weekend car if that. Id say id be doing 5 k a year.id be more than happy to have 4 years out of the engine before i change my mind on setup / want to go for more power ?

2kdrift

Aradin

In all my years of messing with Hondas(over a decade now) I've learned time and time again that there are two ways to do things, right and again. Do it right the first time and you won't have to do it again. Do you really want to be paying for two engine builds? Two sets of machining costs? Taking the engine out at least twice? In the end it's up to you.

Why don't you just boost it stock if you really want boost but don't want a full build? You can bolt on an efficient turbo kit, get a good tune and easily make 350whp or north of that and have it last for a long while. You don't have to touch the internals or open the engine to make that kind of power. Really the only thing you have going against you is how aggressive your cams are but with a good flowing tubular turbo manifold and a halfway competent tuner that's really not an issue at all. Boost it stock, buy a block on the side and build that for big power so when your stocker eventually chunks a rod out, you'll be ready.

Mahle golds are a dumb thing to me for a car that's going to see any kind of street time. It's nothing but a coated piston. If the piston-to-wall clearance isn't perfect then it will wear off extremely fast and you'll be back in the same boat having to spend the money twice. Even if the work is done absolutely perfectly it MIGHT last 30k at those kinds of power levels and the performance of the engine will be degrading the entire time. The coating will wear off. It's just a matter of when. Do any kind of research on those things and you'll know. The only real purpose I can see for them is a cheap drag car that will see nothing but 1/4 passes it's whole life and get torn down or blown up before that becomes the deciding factor in the death of the engine.

My $.02. Keep it stock and boost it, or build it right and be done with it.

Thewheelco

cheers guys, ive done my reaserch on the mahle golds, they are ***** haha.
think im going to go down the dry sleeve route as im not wanting massive power.

i appreciate your responses guys