likwidchz

I have an NA H22 and run about 31-32 degrees of ignition advance before it starts to fail to make any more power.

How much ignition timing is generally run on that engine with stock internals at the level of psi recommend on a daily driver?

What kind of power is generally made?

I have Neptune and have been using for the past 2 years. If someone could provide 2d screenshots or just attach the fuel/ignition map for me to take a look it, it would fill my curiosity needs

eg6-jarhead

iTrader: (1)

im in the same boat.
stock block h22a 10.6:1~ c/r
im going to be on 6psi.
im at 29.75 degrees on my n/a tune.
im thinking with my setup (35r,pro1 cams, sk2 IM, ramhorn) i will take .75 degrees per pound..im also running 91 octane cause thats all that is available here (maine).
so that would equal 25.25 degrees at 6psi WOT.
i will prob start with 22 degrees until i can get it on a dyno..


i would like to here from some more people about this!

DRIVENRacing

start with no timing, work yourself up.. monitor your plugs, and tq crv... you will see a timing mark on your plug, you will understand then

eg6-jarhead

iTrader: (1)

im only able to street tune at the moment so actually watching the torque curve is out of the question until i can get it on a dyno.
do you typically start out with literally "zero" timing??

vwbased

have a nice day

0KStuned

A few things to consider with an H22 is that if it knocks even for a short period, it will likely break ring lands so be careful with timing on a stock engine. Second thing is that the difference in 2-3 degrees of timing will be extremely minimal at that boost level. And lastly, make sure you don't get wild with the timing too early, if you're talking about 30 deg at wot when your na, make sure that your not 30 deg at 3000 rpm wot for example. Ignition timing needs to increase with rpm, be careful at low rpm and at peak tq timing. Start a 2-3 degrees lower than you want to, don't add it until your on a dyno. The power increase in those last few degrees (if any) will be minimal (likely less than than 10hp)

eg6-jarhead

iTrader: (1)

thanks guys

ashb82

if your going to street tune i would go to tools: boost tables: retard 1 deg per psi : and add fuel per psi. Get the afr dialed in then save up and hit the dyno. I just dont like adding timing on the street. I am not one of the guys that say no street tuning because i street tune every car i have tuned. Also cast stock pistons will blow a ring land in a short amount of time with detonation.

eg6-jarhead

iTrader: (1)

I'm using Crome pro. What is a good "turbo efficiency" number to start with? 120% is what it is defaulted to.

Natural Aspirations

Some hood stuff in here!

Start off with the 120% and adjust up or down before editing individual cells, this makes things go much faster. ( I actually accredit All_M0t0r to showing me this) Try to keep your columns and rows as possible rather than making your numbers exact.

eg6-jarhead

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info. Building the downpipe and dumptube tomorrow.
Should be done in a week or so. Waiting on turbo drain kit and a 90 degree coupler.

DDTECH

Like NA said, start with 120% overall more fuel. Since you're new at this, start @ retarding 1.5 to 1 degree of timing per psi. You need to learn how to read plugs properly before adding back in timing.

eg6-jarhead

iTrader: (1)

This thread is going to help a lot of people! Awesome.

How many sets of plugs do you guys expect me to need if I'm reading them after every pull? (street pulls)

eg6-jarhead

iTrader: (1)

Actually it's sounds like pulling 1-1.5 degrees per pound will allow me to read the plugs and if it looks good I'll stick with it. Im not going to get ballsy for 10hp with the added risk of detonation.

eg6-jarhead

iTrader: (1)

Also, since the h22 has weak ringlands...
What should my timing be at launch control/revlimit? Do I just follow the 1-1.5 degree retard per pound and go with it? I'm assuming it would be just based off whatever the timing is at that specific rpm and pressure..but at no real load on the motor (launch control) I feel like it should be retarded more...same with revlimit but with load(which I know I'll be hitting in the waterbox and 1st gear)

eg6-jarhead

iTrader: (1)

Revlimit whether it be lower for launch control or high when racing, just seems like such a menacing action to the motor and if the timing is to high it would detonate.. Maybe I'm overthinking it.
Any help is obviously appreciated. You guys already saved my motor and I havnt even started it with the 35r on it.
Thank you.

eg6-jarhead

iTrader: (1)

TTT

eg6-jarhead

iTrader: (1)

Up for a little help

eg6-jarhead

iTrader: (1)

TTT

ashb82

once you get it tuned like you want. i dont think it matters where you set the launch at. I have never heard of having det at launch.

DDTECH

You're over thinking.

likwidchz

Holy crap i started a thread and forgot about it.

Vwspeed - Reid@KAIZENSPEED


Your posts above peaked my curiosity thanks! good stuff.

--Aaron

eg6-jarhead

iTrader: (1)

well i have 1,000 miles on mine now.
6psi spring that creeps to 8ish sometimes 10-11 when its cold out. (38mm gate)
my afr's are 11:1 and i started with 2 degrees pulled per psi.
it didnt like that, it would break up after like 6000rpms.
kept adding timing until it didnt break up, ended up with 1.25 retard per psi.
runs good, havent pulled the plugs yet but will tomorrow probably.
car pulls good, ran a 11.4 @ 121mph first time at the track. going again on saturday.
92 cx hatch, 2350lbs with me in it.
stock block h22 turbo FTW.
-jack

eg6-jarhead

iTrader: (1)

also im tuning with crome pro.
using a gold bin.
launch control settings are: 19 degrees retard and injector: 200 milliseconds.
5500rpms.
builds 6psi.

eg6-jarhead

iTrader: (1)

oh and 93 octane.
ngk bkr7e plugs @ .028"
thats it i think lol