H22 low temp fan switch
#1
H22 low temp fan switch
H22 turbo civic setup, mainly a street car, but setting it up now to head to the track on occasion. I know we can set up our Hondata S300's to set the fan to cut in at lower temps and such. Even with good header wrapping, our engine bays still retain alot of heat, especially when out for a cruise on a hot or warm day which can heatsoak the rad and raise the coolant temp a nice bit...I'm even running the T1 spal fan, shroud and Koyo rad combo, so my tuner suggested last summer to pull the fan switch plug off the fan switch and use a jumper wire to keep the fan running at all times, and my car ran fantastic, never ever hitting 200f, even in traffic, on a really hot day, 195 would be the hottest it would get, and driving on the highway, it would stay around 180, but car would take longer to warm up....without the jumper wire...temps in traffic would hot 200-206, and still stay around 195-200 on the highway on a hot day. So with the low temp fan sitches...they cut in at 176f which would allow the car to warm up quicker, yet keep the temps under control once the heat starts to build....maybe my factory fan switch need to be replaced, cause it seems the fan never used to cut in at 195 like it was supposed to....who else has similar isses and how did you deal with it? thanks
#2
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iTrader: (14)
Re: H22 low temp fan switch
You having the fan on at all times on the highway is what is causing some heat issues, as the fan is actually HURTING the airflow going into the radiator to cool down. It should be off during highway driving.
I never understood the advice of having the fan on at all times. It doesn't work like it theoretically should.
Some areas to look at.
1) You may want to look into the type of coolant and water wetter mix you're using. It may be time to look at a better combination
2) If the intercooler and radiator are too close together (such as a "tucked" radiator into the radiator support.) with your intercooler, it can easily cause some overheating effects. You need at least 2-4 inches of distance between your intercooler and radiator in order for the radiator to not share the heated-exchanged air that the intercooler is trying to convert to the turbo compressor discharge air to cooler exchanged air.
3) Check the coolant system. Re-"burp" the system one more time.
Engine bay temps will always be higher due to radient heat created by the increased cylinder pressures of forced induction. It'll never be as cool as an NA car. But, it has little to do with the cooling system of the car. so remember that. Check coolant/water wetter combinations, spacing of radiator/intercooler, and simply use a standard thermostat or slightly cooler one. No need to run the fan all the time.
I never understood the advice of having the fan on at all times. It doesn't work like it theoretically should.
Some areas to look at.
1) You may want to look into the type of coolant and water wetter mix you're using. It may be time to look at a better combination
2) If the intercooler and radiator are too close together (such as a "tucked" radiator into the radiator support.) with your intercooler, it can easily cause some overheating effects. You need at least 2-4 inches of distance between your intercooler and radiator in order for the radiator to not share the heated-exchanged air that the intercooler is trying to convert to the turbo compressor discharge air to cooler exchanged air.
3) Check the coolant system. Re-"burp" the system one more time.
Engine bay temps will always be higher due to radient heat created by the increased cylinder pressures of forced induction. It'll never be as cool as an NA car. But, it has little to do with the cooling system of the car. so remember that. Check coolant/water wetter combinations, spacing of radiator/intercooler, and simply use a standard thermostat or slightly cooler one. No need to run the fan all the time.
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