SOO. I was wanting to hear people setups (preferablly gsrt's). I am wanting to achieve 300-350whp and street drive a civic i have. I am going to go with gsr, but what is the setups most people use to achive this goal? Topend rebuild etc etc? opinions and thoughts are welcome, and especially pictures and spec of your setup woudl be nice also. SO im thinking of maybe going peakboost or piece my own kit together. Build wise i would go with stock gsr with blockguard, with fresh tuneup (timing belt, plug wires, plugs, water pump, etc) and slight topend build wich would consist of valvesprings and retainers. other then that it would be all stock, oh and injectors and fuel pump of course. so let me know what setups you guys have and how you like it how it holds up pros/cons. I know theres plenty to search and read, and i have, but i know there is more out there and i would like to see more then just what we have right now. I will be reading more and more as i usually do.

thanks in advance

 

bump

 

No need for the blockguard.

If the motor is healthy, and your going to a competent tuner, you shouldn't have any problems making your goal of 300-350 whp.
ARP's and a fresh headgasket should do the trick. Make sure you're fuel system is in order, and you'll be good.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1501150

18 pages of setups, numbers and pics. have fun

 

appreciate it guys, yea so i hear i can keep it extremely stock, but i think doing mild headwork would just make it last longer, oh and dpetro thanks for the link, i have looked at all that many times, but i was wanting more of my range of 300-350whp. oh and the motor i will be getting is very healthy with low low miles.

 

might as well get the block honed and get some new pistons/rods.

it's pretty much gonna be up to your tune ya know. once your engine is to it's max output then that's it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg64u &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">appreciate it guys, yea so i hear i can keep it extremely stock, but i think doing mild headwork would just make it last longer, low low miles.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

head worl isnt really gonna do much for reliabilty. block components are more likely gonna fail on a boosted honda. i guess ive heard a few stories of dropped valves and whatnot but you hear more about rings, pistons and sleeves. id say a rod/piston combo is gonna be more benfitial than headwork.

 

hmm, i hear to much of everything haha, i hear you should ge head work, should get blcok done, etc etc. ive heard everything from buttom end problems, to valves mating with pistons, to etc etc. but i duno to achieve my goals of low low 12's with less then 10 psi would be dope and also high 11's with 12 psi. but on street i want 8-10 and everyone has told me oh you will want more, true but im not one of those itchy guys who boost the sh9t out of there cars without thinking of the motor not being built correctly. so my main goal is to go low low low 12's on 10- psi on drag radials/slicks with 300-350whp which i know is hella doable but i want to see what the easiest most cost effective setup would be , cheapest but when i mean cheap i mean if i dont really really need it then do without it. but i have a while to decide if i will go boost or continue with all motor build. but i am finding out more about boost setups because its not my home when it comes to boost. I know more then most but i need to find the best setup for my needs that is reliable.

 

b

 

If you have a JDM GSR motor then you'll need Pistons and rods first. 3 out of 4 stock JDM GSR's that go turbo crack piston rings landings, because they can't handle heat very well. There are exceptions to that rule though. I think doing the valvetrain would be a good idea, because I've also seen GSR heads float valves under moderate load at high RPM. If it were me, Pistons, eagle rods, arp head studs, supertech valvetain, 550 cc RC injectors, walbro 255 HP fuel pump, Neptune or S300 EMS, and a good turbo setup.

 

For 300-350whp build the block then build the head. Many make 300whp on stock blocks, but it would be much safer to have some pistons and rods to support the added stresses of turbocharging. Imho it would be a wast of your money to pnp the head or go with crazy valves for that hp level. Valvetrain would be a good idea if you are going to be reving high (8k-9k) occasionally.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg64u &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my goals of low low 12's with less then 10 psi would be dope and also high 11's with 12 psi.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg64u &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so my main goal is to go low low low 12's on 10- psi on drag radials/slicks with 300-350whp which i know is hella doable but i want to see what the easiest most cost effective setup would be</TD></TR></TABLE>

Where do people get these boost numbers from??? Why does it matter to you how much boost you run as long as the compressor is still efficiently producing boost? Can you explain that? Why did you pick the "10psi"? Is it because it sounds good or because its a nice round number?

In all truth, the amount of boost pressure you run will be determined by what turbo you run, what your whp goals are and how efficient your setup is (including max revs and displacement). Is this just a track car? It not I suggest you do some more research into determining what type of response you want from your turbo. The engine may handle it, but what turbo is going to be right for the engine at your "10psi" and hp goal? GL.

 

for what its worth do, do what im doing. i have a stock gsr thats turboed. 7psi, well less because i have a leak somewhere but whatever. in the meantime im either looking for a **** gsr block that some1 fucked up so i canget it for dirt cheap and start a build on the side. once my motor ***** up (which i hope doesent happen), i can just swap in the next 1. orrrrrrrrr alot of people on here sell their NEW built block. just a matter off diffeerent things coming up in their lives and a block isnt the most important thing to them. i once saw a benson sleeved gsr block 800 bucks. it didnt have any internals, but thats still a great price. but make sure its professionally built. also what you can do is get a dual stage boost controller. and run it at different boost levels so you not always running it at 300whp.

 

i would not suggest buying a built or already sleeved block unless you are buying it from somebody you know personally. i have seen one too many people get screwed over because of this. and usually if there is a problem with the block, if your not the original purchaser of the block odds are they wont do anything for you. and people lie about what sleeves are in blocks and who installs them all the time.

NEVER buy a damaged block as your starting platform for a engine build.


being cheap is always more expensive.


ive made 300-350 on plenty of stock interal b16's, type r's, h22's and gsr's. you just have to buy good quality parts (i prefer full race turbo kits, they fit, come with everything you need, and always make reliable problem free horsepower) on a stock internal motor you want it to make power nice and easy, not have to work for it...that way you can tune super conservative and still make the power you are looking for. a drag manifold with a 1966 ebay turbo leaky mild steel mig welded by a blind guy on a pogo stick piping and a 50 dollar ebay intercooler isnt going to be the way to do it reliable.

i cant stress enough, being cheap is always more expensive.

 

i appreciate more response you guys have opened my eyes a little more and i definately understand "being cheap is always more expensive" so i hear you on that. oh and why i want to go 10psi is because when i read up that seems to be a good number to go at with my goals, of course i could go with some used t3 and rebuild it and use a log mani and have to boost 14+psi to get to my goals etc etc, or i could go with 10psi witch will net me at 300-350whp with a equal length type of manifold, (peakboost,fullracem, etc etc) oh and i definately wont be cheap, but i can see many people run pretty high numbers on close to stock motors, and i am well below those numbers so i want to know whats the best setup for the motor so i can achieve these goals and have the least problems with. Yea i definately understand "keyersoze" on what hes saying with turbo setup etc, but im not to worred of that because im got going with a gt40 or anything crazy just something that spools pretty easy and would commute to daily driving when it is needed. but i know im going ramhorn/peakboost manifold, one or the other, and that will withdraw and leave me with more benefits of making hp then a log mani and etc, i do have a daily driver so this project could be long or it could be short, but im just in the process of what needs to be done on my motor. so thanks again guys/girls and wish me luck on my build and i hope you guys are successfull on what you guys do to your cars.

: )

 

but how about people who break their blocks by over boosting and what andnt eh cylinders crack. if the plan is to re-sleeve. would it make a difference?

 

i wouldnt do it. you will end up spending more in machine work 99 out of 100 times. hell i always try to start off with a good running block that way you can reuse the original crank and everything.

if i got a dollar for every time people said "i should have listened to you" regarding doing stuff right the first time, i wouldnt have to work anymore

 

smart man joe lol. without your posts, ide ben running lean on life lol