DAprojectTuRtle

iTrader: (3)

ok so im going to rebuild my 96 gsr motor to gsr/b16 head and throw on a greddy turbo kit im gettin off here.. my questions are aimed more at the fuel setup necessary and some block questions.. im leaving the head as it is.. fresh machined 0mile head. just need intake manifold/tb/fpr etc type setup basically bolt ons.. im going to rebuild bottom end with stuff that ive accumulated over the last few months..

can i use j:e low compression pistons out of a b18b1?

i know people keep saying s300 over s200 but on this build i want to use wat i got.. so can s200 and emanage work together or should i use one over the other??? i got both

am i safe on stock injectors and fuel pump at 6psi??

im new to turbo so any info/advice would be awesome.. i will be researching threads as much as possible.. i know i wanna keep it reliable and my motor is in need of rebuild before boost so thats where im starting..new timing belt all gaskets bottom/top new water pump and oil pump. cylinder hone deck hot tank but i am trying to do this at the minimal in terms of im not trying to set any records in this car.. im buildin a nitrous fully built sleeved pnp ls/vtec dat will be high end parts from oil pan up to spark plugs..this is just to have a funner daily driver that could be turned up if wanted..

DAprojectTuRtle

iTrader: (3)

i have been reading other turbo threads and i want to start off by saying i am not trying to cut corners just trying to do whats absolutely necessary to the motor before turbo.. the kit itself is a greddy kit so it should be fine for what im tryna achieve.. if i can break 300 for less than 9lbs...fine by me lol. i keep it on the track now and this isnt a track car.

DAprojectTuRtle

iTrader: (3)

here's a pic of the car and the b16 head going in.. ill have pics this weekend of the turbo kit.

ZLboosted_EG

You can run the pistons. Normally you would run low comp on high boost setups, if all you're looking for is about 6 psi of boost is kind of overkill in my opinion. The pistons can withstand more abuse than the oem ones so that is always a plus.

S200 over the Emanage. The tuning capabilities (features) are limited in the Emanage if its the blue box or Emanage(not the E Ultimate)

upgrade injectors and fuel pump. When you boost you burn a lot more fuel than in a NA setup so fuel supply must be upgraded.

Your gonna wanna make sure your ignition setup is good (Cap, rotor, wires, and some colder plugs) Change out the fuel filter if you haven't done so recently.

DAprojectTuRtle

iTrader: (3)

ok then ima just use those pistons for nitrous... thanks for the info.. yea i plan on running colder plugs. what kinda cap?? msd?

ill def use s200 then. yea its the greddy blue emanage box

sounds like ill just rebuild the gsr to pristine oem status with compression numbers over 220 hopefully and just boost it a little.. its quick for what it is and if it just made more power in the top end and be 100% smoke free no oil burning and in the 12's on the quarter fine by me... n also i know its easily possible.. on its current setup i ran a 13.3 1000ft.. so another second is feasible i think lol

DAprojectTuRtle

iTrader: (3)

i guess by looking at other peoples threads in forced induction asking turbo advice can easily become like asking somebody what color shirt to wear so in order for this thread not too become like one of those wasteless threads of stupid questions.. i am going to keep it simple and only ask questions to what i have exactly.. i think i understand what a turbo setup is and from the most part its straightforward except for the most important part (the turbo) and all the measurements and specifications to of which i must research but as for the rest of a turbo setup its just hard parts bein put together for a certain purpose. i will stress this again and again i plan on keepin this simple.. no certain hp numbers have to be gained.. i just want as much reliability as possible.

ZLboosted_EG

I'm running a stock cap. I've used stock caps on all my setups but they were mild setups under 300WHP.

DAprojectTuRtle

iTrader: (3)

sounds like what i wanna do.. im more for just having it to have it and hear it on this setup and to actually have a turbo car for once.. always been all motor. n im currently build a fully built sleeved pnp lsvtec on 250shot direct port nos lol so the teggys just for cruisin mostly..but sits 25days out of the month lol

ZLboosted_EG

I completely understand. You wanna have some fun without breaking the bank. Wish most other HTers would see it that way. They always want you to have the best when you cant afford it. Then they come with the "if you can't afford to do it with name brand parts, then dont do it."
It comes out translating to me, "if you can't buy name brand food and can only afford generic with your income, then you shouldn't eat" lol Most of us can't and wont shell out $3500-4000 for a turbo setup that should probably go on a 3500 to 4000 built engine designed to handle what the turbo can make. Funny to see guys blow 4k on a turbo setup and then kill the STOCK engine after time becuz the motor couldn't take all the boost and then they blow more monayz to make the engine suitable for the turbo setup.

My bad for the rant but tired of everyone trying to force everyone to do a turbo setup like theirs. I'm sure i'll get flamed but o' well.
Come at me bro!

00Red_SiR

I'm not liking the old damage to the chambers you can see in the pic above. You really want to have those areas nice and smooth and filled in again so it doesn't create hot spots and pre-ignition/detonation. You may be able to solve it with careful use of a dremmel or you may need to have material welded in there and ground down.

I hear what your saying about doing the best with what you can afford but I think the point that is really being made is: don't expect to perform with the other top atheletes at the track if you can only afford to eat Burger King etc. If you are serious about performing, you need to eat right and exercise and that takes work and effort, committment and money. If you don't have those things, that's fine but you should also adjust your expectations for the end results you're going to get.

Translation: If you can't afford to do it right, don't expect it to perform or last like a build that is done right. You may end up spending more money this way because people who often say that they can't really afford to do something once (but do it anyway), usually end up doing it twice.

Just something to think about

nealnanoHX

Yeah you can use the B18B1 piston in the B18C1, same bore and wrist pin something all B series share, just be sure to have the bore matched to the new pistons. I would keep the compression closer to stock though 9.5-10:1, it will be more responsive. The S200 is discontinued so you would need to find a used one. The S300 is much better or Neptune RTP just as good and about $100 cheaper. Some 550cc injectors will do but 750cc would give you more room in the future. I would not use the head you have pictured, any good machine shop should have told you that, all that damage is large hot spots waiting to blow the motor. If you still have the GSR head just use that one. The P72 head and PR3 head pretty much flow the same in the long run and the GSR head will bump up compression just a little. The GSR dual runner intake also have a nice low end tq curve to it, making it a decent choice for a DD boosted car. It makes the best low end of all the B series intakes and still is decent up top. If you are going for over 400whp then that is another story.

DAprojectTuRtle

iTrader: (3)

thanks about the info on the head ive been wondering about that myself... a for being in top shape in terms of build and just being in moderate shape expecting to play pro basically...

i didnt say i couldnt and wouldnt do it right the first time but whats required with a bolt on kit?? besides whats been mentioned.

well heres what im getting at i just want it to run good and reliable lol dats it. if its about money or patience believe me i got that. like i said the car sits 25days out of the month. but sometimes i think builds are overbuilt. when i drive the car after the motor rebuild and when its turboed will be very lax in terms of what its capable of. as for when its used competitively at track, if i lose so what lol.. i am honestly trying to just build a reliable motor with a bolt on turbocharger setup and use and keep it within its limits.. so i think that getting ridiculous on this isn't the idea..

i guess to get my point across more clearly. i know the difference between a track purpose car and a daily driver wit a lil power.. im goin for the latter in this build. as for the first (track purpose) car i also have an extra ls/vtec motor thats going to golden eagle for full sleeves. heads going to rlz engineering for street pnp.. rmf header je pistons eagle rods. micropolished crank.. i just need a shell for that setup and you would be seein two very different beasts and different questions in front of you.. get my drift. this one is trying to be as simple and problem free as can be for a bolt on turbocharger setup.. the ls/vtec setup will be fully cammed s300 dss axles doggbox tranny caged.

this gsr integra turbo build is a semi show quality CRUISER lol which means low psi and hardly even hittin redline..

i can show pics of nitrous ls vtec setup also but im savin that for a future and slower build thread.. im tryna get this safely turboed for eibach.

DAprojectTuRtle

iTrader: (3)

ill reread my thread but im pretty sure i said my expectations were pretty minimal from what it already is or does.. 300hp under 9lbs and maybe high 12's on the 1/4 when its already in the 13's and close to 200hp N/A.. i expect it to run reliably and hopefully the next 5 years wit no problems and under 10lbs. i expect itll sit in the garage mostly hit a few shows when weather permits and hit the track one time after its turboed to lay a time down for the forgotten da chassis to post on g2ic.com after that its just to drive normally and hear the bov... when i wanna **** bricks ill fire up my 250shot direct port ls/vtec nitrous car which i already have all parts for except car. so its not like im just wishing.

DAprojectTuRtle

iTrader: (3)

trust me bro i know what ur saying.. sometimes people overthink a situation and make it too complicated.. i definitely spend alot of time researching proper honda information so im not tryna cut corners but im not tryna make a fwd beast of my hard to find oem g2.. i just think clean boosted dohc vtec da's are a rarity so im tryna build one.

DAprojectTuRtle

iTrader: (3)

i want to fully rebuild the bottom end and top end.. hondata im gasket. blox im.. 400cc injectors aftermarket fpr map tb fuel rail new water pump piston rings cylinder hone/deck/hottank balanced/blueprinted block oil pump crank rod bearings head studs headgasket timing belt plugs cap s200tune... what am i skipping or missing out of a turbo build??? the turbo kit is a greddy so its a complete kit and i want to run under 8lbs on stock sleeves?? what should i do if im not doing something right?? this is why i avoided turbos for so long its too much bs just to make work lol.. just sayin.. its not stoppin me but i can tell until this is in and running smoothly its gonna be a lotta headaches lol

DAprojectTuRtle

iTrader: (3)

is the head fixable?? i took it to a buddy of mine whos pretty knowledgeable and he said it was fine and i took his word for it... now im hearing different so is the head salvageable or just junk

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

The same analogy for using better parts is "its best to buy food that is FDA approved, that is usually found in brand named food, or the food that you eat will have a higher likelihood of making you sick or being poisoned."

Meaning, take the chance if you will, but eating the cheaper food will more than likely keep you taking more medicine to control the bad food you ate. What a deal...

Get the real deal and stop fu*king around or get sick.

MidShipCivic

Mad cow meat is very delicious doe gives you dat permanent ''itis'' ...

(http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=itis).

Oh and to the OP...you are cutting corners you will not get what you want with what you currently just displayed.

DAprojectTuRtle

iTrader: (3)

i dont understand where im using cheap parts or cutting corners.. can you guys specify.

Honda oem parts-check
greddy turbo kit-check
aftermarket fuel upgrades from companies like aem-check
goal to be hopefully around 300hp on 8lbs- check
resources to do it right and slow-check
not trying to build a ridiculous turbo setup-check

DAprojectTuRtle

iTrader: (3)

r u guys sayin i have to have the full kit before i start a build or what lol the idea of this thread was to see what needs to be done and what i have or plan on getting... i didnt go through the hassle of posting a picture for every piece because i dont bs lol if i have it i have it if i dont then i dont... what am i missing i have a complete greddy turbo kit wit piping intercooler manifold bov turbo wastegate emanage software.. i have a b18c1 and a spare built ls block and a couple b16 heads i have je 9:1 pistons eagle rods arp rod bolts micropolished crank. i dont have cams yet but i think stock gsr cams will be sufficient for at least the motor break in period. i need aftermarket injectors need help determing what size. i need a fuel pump.i got a direct port nitrous sytem on the side..already mentioned i needed a im/tb fuel rail setup.. pics dont tell a whole story only parts. none of these parts are crappy names... all respected names so what leads you to believe i cut corners or whatever. i just dont have 5gs sittin right now to go buy a cart full i buy piece by piece and according to the build it varies.. yea im actually doin two full builds. one easily capable of tens and the other 12's.. just in due time cuz im not rich but im def not cheeap

DAprojectTuRtle

iTrader: (3)

r u guys sayin dat im settin goals too high cuz i think itd hit 12's or be close to 300hp.. please let me know lol..

i guess i gotta list the whole list

96 b18c1
hydraulic b16 tranny
hasport cable to hydro
obd02obd1 conversion
mishimoto radiator
ngk wires n plugs
4-1 header
2.5" exhaust piping and muffler
shitty tune but i got a s200 in garage

pretty basic but was still able to muster a 13.3 1000ft wit full interior/sunroof and shitty axles and tires. so i think when i get a traction bar. some drag radials. rebuild the motor to strong condition drive it for a 1000 miles change oil drive another thousand change oil add turbo drive a 1000 change turbo then hit it hard.. may sound excessive but i have no problem with that. and take it to the track one time and hopefully hit high 12's.

DAprojectTuRtle

iTrader: (3)

if i was driving around boosting to 8500rpms all day and **** then id be understanding you guys.. but i am not even though id like too im not going too.. so for a regularly style driven integra is what im tryna do sound feasible??? im not tryna do 8lbs for a month then go up to 12lbs after a few months.. im building it for 8lbs to leave it at 8lbs. i look at it like this if i was to go up to the same car but different drivers then itd b good race cuz most races are won before their started unless its an even car and thats when its at a track.

DAprojectTuRtle

iTrader: (3)

like my first post said any info helpful advice suggestions is welcomed. tellin me that somehow im cuttin corners but not being specific is in no way helpful. tell me im wrong or whatever thats the idea.. is it too much in todays world of possibilities to build a minimal build using quality parts or does every build gotta go threw the roof and be undrivable around california towns where cops hate imports already. like i said i am building this to just be reliable turbo daily... i dont streetrace canyon race freeway race so whats the big problem.. i only go to track once so far but have been building hondas for almost ten years..

DAprojectTuRtle

iTrader: (3)

Specifications of the engine. Please note, some of these parts are controversial and not of our original design
B18C1 - Engine Block
*PROBE PISTONS -81.5mm 10.0:1 Stock sleeves
*PROBE RODS
*ACL Bearings using a micrometer to confirm measurements
*ARP Head studs
*ARP mains
*ARP Rod bolts for PROBE rod replacement
*ARP Crank pulley, clutch & Flywheel Bolts
*OEM GS-R Crank 87.2mm
*OEM P72 Head Gasket
*MOROSO 5QT Oil Pan
*Gates High Tension Timing Belt
*OEM GS-R 22T Water Pump
*OEM GS-R Oil Pump
*B&R Fittings Catch can and water line kit - PENDING
*Clutchmasters FX450 - Pending
*EXEDY 9lbs Flywheel


Cylinder Head
*GS-R Cams - Temporarily - May go to Skunk2 PRO1 next year
*OEM cam gears - (Thanks to Californiadad for the idea)
*SUPERTECH FULL VALVETRAIN
*SUPERTECH Flat-top NITRITE-TREATED VALVES
*SUPERTECH VALVEGUIDES
*"3-Angle" Valvejob
*OmniPower 68mm Throttle Body
*OmniPower 4bar Map Sensor
*OmniPower TPS
*SKUNK2 PRO1 Intake Manifold
*BDL Fuel Rail
*BDL Cam Seal
*BDL Fuel Pressure Regulator
Forced Induction Components
*Spoolin' Performance Quick4 AC Exhaust manifold
*Spoolin' Performance 3" 4 Bolt Downpipe
*TiAL 38mm Wastegate 14psi wastegate spring
*TURBONETICS "Godzilla" Blow off Valve
*Go-Autowerks 2.5" Intercooler Piping - PENDING
*MISHIMOTO 31 X 12 X 4 Intercooler Anodized

Turbocharger
*STC GT3584R "Reaper" Ball-bearing turbocharger Upgrade from a Kinetics Motorsport GT3582R
*T31 2.5" 4 bolt turbine housing .63A/R turbine housing


i look at this list and it looks different dont get me wrong but two different goals and yet my current already list or pending to get list is absolutely no different than this in terms of how intricate and detailed the build will be... maybe not all nice and layed out on the net but when its actually done it will be to the t.... i just wanna know what changes or additions i should do to my list to be a reliable bolt on kit for now and upgrade each piece as possible..

nealnanoHX

Sell the PR3 head, I would not use that on any setup of mine. Like I said just use the P72 head, there are little to no gains by putting a PR3 head on a GSR block. Needless to say I do run a PR3 head on my LS Vtec but that was for ease of install. You already have the GRS head and the GSR motor is already swapped in your car, just boost it 300whp on stock motor no problem.