bajansohcvtec

Nothing was done with the block or head just forge rods and pistons timing spot on to I will go at them again next year but i wonder whats the difference between the gsc 6015T1 and the gsc 7015T1

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Materials. They went from a higher grade Chill-cast Iron Nickel to a full one-piece Billet.

Chance EG

I'm considering the Tuner 1 cams now as a middle ground between CTR/GSC T1 cams. I think that should be the best "sweet spot" cam profile for power past 9K and the small exhaust profile. Shouldn't sacrifice anything down low. Easy on valvetrain too I guess.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I put together a video 5 years ago (Search GSC vs. Tuner 1 on Youtube) in which I stated exactly that back then. Valvetrain requirements are apples-to-grapes different, so you can't say one is easier on the valvetrain than the other.

Better yet.

Chance EG

Thank you very much for the video. Definitely sold on the Tuner 1's currently.

gringotegra

You still on here playboy?

Chance EG

Well this decision lasted 2 weeks.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Yep, but becoming less so this year

simjosh

iTrader: (2)

I just got my car up and running with the GSC T1's... After a week of running great I ran into some electrical issues...

Map sensor was an omni 3 bar -- Was pulling -8 to -7 inhg at idle.. I know others were around the -6 to -10.. So thought that was all good and normal - Car had hiccup cruising in the 2-2.5k rpm range instead of 3-3.5k range as I've seen others have... but didn't seem abnormal.
Now I find out I got the car street tuned with a broken map sensor.. Get a new sensor on there and I'm pulling -12inhg at idle -which seems high...

Wondering for others with LS/Vtec - On the GSC t1's do you just 0/0 or as I've read 100 different opinions on the matter.. advance intake +2 and retard exhaust -2... some just set up 0/0 and ensure belts tensioned correctly - and lastly others like me advance both intake / exhaust a tad...

I'm wondering now if I didn't set them right... I did all my P2P and V2v combinations so I know I've got MILES of clearance with my current pistons and stock valves..
Just trying to get a good idea if where I've set them seem accurate to others before I spend the next week fine tuning the part throttle areas.
Thanks
-Josh

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Comments are within your statements in blue

simjosh

iTrader: (2)

Hey ... thanks for the quick response.. The omni map sensor was cracked straight down the middle so the -8 to -7 was an inaccurate reading. I was basically just paranoid once I got a new sensor on that the idle pressure was pulling so much higher.. I'm still stuck on the theoretical part but I've made a couple assumptions - Head / Block milled .005 so thats 1* total and ls block / vtec head - 1* - how I came up with 2 for starters.
I really just wanted to make sure I was on the right track or if I should reset to true 0/0 and wait until dyno to move them up together in 1* increments until its right.

Thanks for the reassurance.
So far I love these cam's .. The little bit I've driven even out of boost feels 10x stronger than old LS head / cams.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Go back to "0/0".. Don't try to recorrect them on the dyno. Unlike other companies, those camshafts were made to work best at 0,0, and not changing any increments like the Skunk2 Pro Series.

In fact, many users that are not on H-T much that use these cams use stock cam gears. (That's right, I said it..... STOCK). That's how you know you need to be at true 0,0..

justYncredible

iTrader: (1)

after watching myles latest run and congrats on breaking another world record. im curious if his car downforce would improve more if he had a jdm front end since it was designed for that.


(yes i know this is a mugen front bumper but im still curious)

LightningTeg

To be honest im not sure why that hasnt been changed yet...The duck tape thing was a good "quick" fix. But now that the car is dedicated to this purpose =/

yaaj1320

Great cams for sure...They keep making power up top..!!

Dynod my car up to 9k and decided to take it up to 9.5k and a 30whp difference..!!

GEN2 LS

iTrader: (3)

Will these cams ever be in stock again? They have been out of stock on the GSC site for quite a while now.

ls joker

i pretty much gave up on them. Ive looking all last year. Emailed them last quarter of the year. No reply!!!

BoostHatchFreak

That’s why I went pro1 as no response from them

khrys771

Funny you guys say that, I received an email a few days ago from GSC that the T1 cams were back in stock.

ls joker

yep, sure does say 4 items in stock.


hmmm

GEN2 LS

iTrader: (3)

"speak of the devil and he shall appear"

well guess i'll take a shot and pull these ITR's out and go for it!

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I had found 3 set BNIB from users on the H-T marketplace and through several 3rd party vendors. You can't go by their site for their stock all the time, as dealers get their hands on them rather quickly and sell them out fast!!
Check out Cole D and some of the others on the Forced Induction classifieds who were dying to sell theirs., or call GSC directly. Stop looking at sites.. Lot of companies don't update them like Amazon.

I can get some in about 3 days, no kidding.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I'm sure you'll like the PRO1s for a 61lbs/min+ turbocharger, but the GSC act completely differently than Pro 1s regardless of turbocharger size

ls joker

I only buy parts brand new from manufactors. Or from about four trusted vendors. I find it hard to maintain interest, when someone cant answer or reply to a few emails within the period of a year concerning purchasing. Whether it be responding a few days later or a couple weeks later. Guess i didnt want them bad enough to call.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

That's about what it sounds like. You weren't interested enough. It's ok. But you don't get to bitch about it. Be happy in what you got.