aeon117

Have a t3/t4 moderate size (unsure exactly) ebay top mount turbo in a automatic vtec 99 integra.
getting heatsoak up to 219 degrees so far in summer desert heat mainly if I boost it a couple times, whether or not they are wot or sustained pulls. If I don't boost it at all, cruising around, I'll maybe see 210 degrees over 30-40m drive and never had it overheat (218+) as of yet just cruising. It starts to creep up at night (maybe around low 80s ambient temperature) to mid 110s if boosting and playing around a little bit with it over maybe 20-30 minutes, haven't done full or consistent pulls with it yet over extended durations of time as have inconveniences getting in the way (leaking injector, failed fuel regulator, leaking oil gaskets, stripped charge pipe clamps, overheating, etc. 🤣

Have a three core mishi half size, keeping AC and Power steering, but not using either (no belt for PS), and no fan for ac. Stock ac condenser, stock 99 style front bumper, and no intercointercoolerReplace thermostat with a 170 degree, have hondata run radiator fan at 170 degree up to 50 mph, it's a slim 10" fan as a puller on radiator side.

Hotside of turbo is wrapped in heatwrap 2x times.

I've driven with the hood popped and unpopped, seems to barely make a difference at all, so not sure if it's a hood vent issue although sure venting couldn't hurt.

​​​​​​Last I can think of is the exhaust is heatsoaking the **** out of the radiator and temp sensor since the exhaust routes passenger side, and measures within 1.5 inches of touching the radiator, as well as passing directly in front of the temp sensor in the head.

If I put a fan as a pusher in front of the radiator as well as a puller, would that help, or cancel each other out? I'm not trying to change my turbo setup atm since it already took a lot of custom work to get this setup in, so my current options are coolant/radiator mods and vent/airflow mods only.



I know it's not a good aerial view, but should be adequate for now with my description.


Basically, I'm looking for advice from anyone that has run into turbo integra cooling issues while keeping AC/PS in 80+ degree heat

Chance EG

For one thing, get a 12" fan. Preferably a SPAL. Judging by your eBay turbo and very high quality oil feed, I'm assuming you're not only using an undersized fan, but also a generic one. Perhaps you could attempt to use your existing 10" fan as the AC condenser fan, but it's absolutely insufficient for your radiator.

Hard to see but it looks like you also do not have a shroud. Get one.

Do not do this. Get a shroud and proper puller fan.

aeon117

You are correct without running a shroud. I actually might be running a 12" slim already, can't remember if it was switched out last time.

Might run into clearance issues running a shroud on puller side is the reason one was not installed. Exhaust was already custom cut and bent to barely go around the coolant hoses, slim fan, and transmission coolant lines.

Here's better views... If running a shroud isn't going to add anymore thickness, it should be doable and I'll order one, otherwise I'm actually running less than half an inch clearance by looking at it now as is.

aeon117

The mishi fan shroud kit specifies a 3.5" width.

That's going to be very close, if not too thick. I tried to measure the distance of my current setup, but since the angles are weird on it, I couldn't get an exact measurement. At the top of the radiator, I have about 2" clearance to the exhaust, at the middle of the fan, it appears my current setup is barely 3", maybe low 3". Like I said, the angles are weird to get a straight accurate measurement, but if my current setup is already at 3" thick, it's going to be pretty rough getting a 3.5" shroud in, if I do, it's definitely going to be touching exhaust.

Is a fan shroud the on puller side the only option to prevent overheating on turbo dc integras?


Clearance only an issue on the bottom 1/4 of the radiator where all the ac lines, charge piping, trans cooler lines are ran, as well as top 1/4 driver side where the exhaust does it's bend.

The exhaust comes off the turbo towards the front of the car by the way the manifold and turbo is mounted, the exhaust is then bent in a sort of '?' shape as it's bent back towards the motor and out of the way of the radiator fan and charge pipe and cooler lines.

highschooler

Your downpipe looks wrapped but your exhaust manifold doesn’t look wrapped and your turbine side of the turbo isn’t wrapped. You could try a turbo blanket on your turbo and heat wrap on the manifold.

SlwGsr

i had a similiar issue with my teg wanting to run in the 210* area with the same radiator and fan setup with hondata commanding the fan on at 170*. switched to a spal fan and it fixed the issue. temps stay in the 180s all times unless im hotlapping at the track it gets back into the 200s

turboLScrx

2 things. 1 Get the best Spal fan you can get…..2 look at the water line coming off the back of the head behind the distributor and make sure it is connected to the top of the thermostat housing

aeon117

Did you also have your downpipe ran next/near the radiator?


The water lines are ran properly, I didn't get overheating before turbo, and don't really get overheating now unless I'm driving hard and it's hot outside as well. Definitely looks to be a engine bay venting, downpipe heat soaking, and/or radiator airflow issue.

Thanks for all the suggestions, gonna look into some kind of hood vent, better/more exhaust/turbo wrapping, and see how much room I have to fit better fan/shroud kit in.

Was hoping the 3 core would have been enough on it's own haha. Maybe swap to a dual core if it'll allow room for fan/shroud kit?


If I am able to fit the mishimoto fan shroud, they rate the 12" fan at 933 cfm, would that be enough?
or would just a 12" spal fan at 1328 cfm be enough without a shroud, unless I can fit that combo with a shroud in?

highschooler

It might be one of the three issues mentioned, but the exhaust/turbo wrapping is cheapest and easiest, then the other two. I’d try the better fan/shroud second, and the hood vent third.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

I think I'd much rather have a 2-core radiator with the best fan setup I can fit than a 3-core radiator with a lesser fan.

ParmRisotto

What coolant are you running? Coolant pump in good shape? How new is the radiator?

My turbo integra had similar issues, the downpipe was just too close to the rad, had to move it and wrap the DP.

aeon117

Brand New radiator like maybe 3 weeks old now, direct from mishimoto. Downpipe is already wrapped. The coolant pump should be good, the entire motor was rebuilt this year, including vtec pumps, it was all assembled from scratch basically, converting a full b20 to a b20 vtec.

It won't break 110 degrees Fahrenheit for maybe 30 minutes plus driving in city traffic outside temp in the high 90s, low hundreds. And will barely hit 120 over extended (40 minutes) driving in these conditions as long as I don't drive hard. If I drive hard it overheats a lot quicker. This is why I'm thinking its a dp heat soak and airflow issue (whether radiator not getting enough flow, or massive engine bay heat soak), and not necessarily coolant related. The dp is very close to the radiator on my setup, even though it's wrapped.

Chance EG

Do you have a block off plate where your AC condenser used to be, or is it just a big hole?

You need to block off that gap if it's still there, that's where all your airflow would be going instead of into the radiator.

aeon117

I'm still running ac with stock condensor, but not using it currently because don't have a running ac fan at the moment. If I turn ac on, car will overheat within couple minutes and keep rising temp fast, even on freeway.


Was looking into seeing what kind of fan/shroud setup I can fit without having to get a new radiator, but then got a flat tire recently, and then noticed my front camber or something seems to be horribly out of whack as the inside of the flat tire was way more worn than the outside (flat because it worn through to the metal wiring on the inside), so this going to be taking priority for now.😩

SlwGsr

yes my downpipe goes maybe even closer then that to my radiator and the dp is wrapped.