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If finances allow I'll be doing a somewhat similar build here later this year with a bone stock 97 spec B18C5 and a Street X kit with a GTX2863R. Going to keep it 11:1 for maximum response and low end, eventually building a B20 on the side for more displacement.
Love the new title, haha. My goal for my car is to crush muscle car dreams, evos, and buburoos. But really id be happy with 420ish whp and 300 tq
I was going to wait until i got and installed the turbo but heres my run dow of build
1999 Civic Ex (A/C and power steering)
B18c 97 Spec Type R
Engine: shortblock
polished crank
Manley H beam rods
Wiesco 10:0:1 pistons
Golden Eagle block Guard welded in
OEM head gasket
APR rod,main,and head bolts
OEM Honda bearings
New type r oil and water pump
New timing belt
Head: PR3
Factory mild port and polish
Supertech turbo valve springs and retainers set
Skunk 2 Lost Motion Assembly
ITR cams
stock itr valves
Turbo:
Speed Trapp Consulting "Hunter" Garrett ball bearing turbo, Oil and water cooled
Go Autoworks A/C friendy ramhorn, heat coated and lava wrapped
Custom downpipe
Go Autoworks dumptube, heat coated and lava wrapped
Turbosmart 45 wastegate w/7psi spring
Koyo radiator w/mishimoto slim fan
Custom 2.5" Charges Pipes
Tial Q 50mm BOV
Vibrant catch can
Suspension:
Skunk 2 pro v II coilovers
Skunk 2 front and rear Camber kit
Skunk 2 Rear LCA
Skunk 2 Front Upper Strut Bar
Eibach front and rear sway bars
Hardrace rear trailing arm bushings
Hardrace Front LCA
Exhaust:
2.5" yonaka exhaust (don't blast, I know its cheap and a lot of restriction but man my car is quiet and sound completly stock)
I'd definitely like to hear an exhaust video after the car is running
No Worries, parts are in route and I will update as they come in. I will be installing all myself and using a trailer to take to tuner. I will post vids of my lil street machine on the Dyno.
Thank speed trapp for putting the turbo the cooling fitting on the 1/2 rad i bought.
Man, im getting excited that parts are rolling in. Ive got like half chub, lmao
MAC......she's Alive, hahahaha, Appt to have her tuned this week. Fingers Crossed.
Make sure you break in that clutch first and go through a good check list before arriving at the Dyno. From my experience, breaking in a new clutch on the dyno has created some horrible results.
Make sure you break in that clutch first and go through a good check list before arriving at the Dyno. From my experience, breaking in a new clutch on the dyno has created some horrible results.
But yay!!! She's alive!!
Mmm, nothing quite like finishing a 6 puck ceramic install and then immediately getting stuck in stop and go traffic to break it in...
Happened to me the first time I did a clutch on an S2K. Was painful but at the same time I knew it was great for the clutch lol. Those first few hundred break in miles suck.
Mmm, nothing quite like finishing a 6 puck ceramic install and then immediately getting stuck in stop and go traffic to break it in...
Happened to me the first time I did a clutch on an S2K. Was painful but at the same time I knew it was great for the clutch lol. Those first few hundred break in miles suck.
If that six pick is unsprung, yes. If it had springs, it's fine. Just take it easy and let everything seat properly. But it has to be done, or things end up worse in the long run.
It also never you got the wrong clutch for the wrong purpose too.
Have no fear peeps, I actually did a break in on the motor after I rebuilt it. I didnt want to have any issues with motor prior to putting the turbo on
If that six pick is unsprung, yes. If it had springs, it's fine. Just take it easy and let everything seat properly. But it has to be done, or things end up worse in the long run.
It also never you got the wrong clutch for the wrong purpose too.
I'm confused, there wasn't any question in that post lol. But yeah, I agree that the break in period on a clutch is crucial, I've seen new clutches with 20K or even less miles on them start slipping early only to find out the owner started beating the **** out of the engine right after the install (which isn't surprising to hear since most people do a clutch swap shortly before a major power upgrade).
That 6 puck was sprung, and it was on a 400WHP street S2000. Competition Stage 4. Worked pretty well, pedal was fairly light, engagement was kinda harsh but liveable.
Have no fear peeps, I actually did a break in on the motor after I rebuilt it. I didnt want to have any issues with motor prior to putting the turbo on
404whp and 258 tq
will have more info when I go get the car tomorrow. Was not able to do my boost by gear because something was up with the speed sensor. But I will post pics tomorrow .
404whp and 258 tq
will have more info when I go get the car tomorrow. Was not able to do my boost by gear because something was up with the speed sensor. But I will post pics tomorrow .
Wiesco 9:5:1 pistons (with the type r head, brings it to a lil over 10:1)
curious how you got your compression figures, Wiseco catalog shows a 9.4 piston and a 10.1:1 piston. Type R head is actually just a b16 head it does not "raise" compression it actually lowers it when compared to a GSR head.
When punching your build into calc I get CR of 9.4 before milling (assuming you used the 9.4 CR piston)
also be careful pushing it any further I cracked a sleeve on pretty much the exact same setup.
B18c1 81.5 / Type R head
Wiseco Pistons 9.4CR (older model)
Welded in GE block guard
428HP 290TQ
also be careful pushing it any further I cracked a sleeve on pretty much the exact same setup.
B18c1 81.5 / Type R head
Wiseco Pistons 9.4CR (older model)
Welded in GE block guard
428HP 290TQ
He'll be fine with a piston/rod setup and some even better fuel.
perhaps with better fuel, other then that I had the exact same setup and cracked a sleeve at slightly higher HP. IMO 400+ stock sleeves should be OK but sometimes **** happens
03-07-2017, 07:48 PM
GoinFast's attempt at "Goin' Fast" - B18C5 10.5:1CR "Hunter" DBB Turbo Project Build
