IIRC you just set the Solenoid Type (AEM is normally closed) and you set the Frequency (IIRC 30 or 31hz for the AEM Solenoid) and thats it.

With PWM turned off in the software the spool should be the same as it was with the manual controller disconnected just running off the Gate Spring.

Try turning the duty to 100% (make sure your boost cut is set) and do a pull from like 3000rpm to whereever you get full boost and see if the responce increases...

 

31hz is the correct frequency to use for the MAC/AEM/etc solenoid. If you're using gear vs rpm be sure to keep the lower RPMs at 0% duty to spool quicker. If you're using target boost by gear, the statement below will apply.

The next release will have the option to keep duty at a steady setting until a specified load. This may also help your response time, but it's not due out for at least another week.

 

Wouldnt setting the duty to 100% make the turbo spool faster when the turbo starts to make boost? Whatever positive pressure that is being made would be placed on the top of the gate to help hold it closed or am I missing something?

 

I mean that makes sense to me as well, but not for spooling quicker. It's on the top port to help keep it steady/regulate it, I don't see how it's making it spool quicker.

Ill have to check with my tuner about the hz setting. He uses them on everyones setup, so he should know what he's doing with it, but u know how it goes we could have overlooked it or clicked something wrong.

I didn't know about the 0 duty cycle though, how is that helping it spool quicker? I mean really as far as spool is concerned it is what it is, and seems to be working as it always has, hits full boost and roasting tire @ vtec (5200), and holds all the way to 9500. Just for some reason the solenoid isn't putting out that kind of boost, that the manual will let me do. It's like it doesn't want to work, or just run the gate setting. Im throwing another one on there just to make sure it's not defective for the hell of it. When I first tuned the car it never made noise, I dunno if my tuner changed something, but with it plugged up now, the solenoid makes a clicking noise @ idle, but it never did before?? Is that normal?

 

Actually the "new" AEM solenoid is 25Hz (35 series), the old larger solenoid was 31Hz (36-series). That's probably what you have. The new style doesn't have the special oval core, thus has less power per wattm thus the lower frequency. I'd try 25Hz on the small solenoid for you, but it's under my air filter, and a bitch to get to.

The way it works is by adding pressure to the top of the spring. My EMS has a fast-spool option, it will run the solenoid 100% duty until a certain PSI. This applys full boost to the top of the WG, and keeps it absolutely sealed until that PSI setting. Normally a WG will crack open just enough a few psi before your target, and slow spool a little. After it goes into regular pulsed mode, it only keeps a percentage of boost in the top port, and raises/lowers that to raise/lower boost.

IMO it sounds like you are leaking too much boost through the valve seal (inside the WG), and/or you have the solenoid air connections wrong. If you have the inlet and outlet swapped, it will leak a decent amount of boost right out that exit port.


This link shows the large 31Hz style, but connections are the same with both. On a normally-closed setup, #1 (right side) is the inlet from turbo/manifold pressure (tee'd from the WG bottom port), #2 (left) is to the WG's top port, #3 is where the muffler/vent port. To check yours, blow into the right-side port when it's unpowered. If it's blocked, it is the pressure inlet port when the EMS is set to normally-closed.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=110446618036

 

This is exactly what I was suggesting, apply pressure to keep the gate from cracking early.....

 

yeah I always though you would do 100% for aem/mac and 0% on top for GM solenoid will give you the quickest spool.

 

i always noticed faster spool with a MBC over a PWM style, that and the fact i bracket race and temp comp tables are such a pain to make a PWM style make the same boost no matter if its hot or cold out. what i suggest if you feel you cant get the PWM style to spool as you want just use a dual stage MBC that allows you to switch between stages with the ecu so you dont have to use a switch. PM me or 93turbo16 if you are interested in this idea we have several MBC that can do just that.

 

I'm sorry, yes, I said that backwards.

HiProfile, thanks for the info. I didn't know they released a new solenoid.

 

Well it's set just as you said. Port 1 has manifold source going in, and going out to the bottom port on gate, port 2 goes to top port on gate, and port 3 is vented.

Again, Ill have to check with my tuner on the settings but imma get him to chime in here and see, maybe there is something set wrong.

Its not the gate, b/c I was running a diff. exhaust mani with tial 44, saame issue. I went back to my old manifold with 38 gate and still, same thing. The manual just works, and the solenoid just won't produce much more than the gate. From the sounds of it I have the older style one, but was brand new. well see what happens soon as this rain goes away., and I can do some more pulls....

I have friends that complained about these things, and some that swear by them, but DAMN this thing can't be this much of a pain in the ***..

 

dealing with rain here to it really makes testing a pain. good luck

 

Why would anyone in their right mind go with a manual controller? This isn't 2005! Once you figure out what the problem is, you'll love the PWM system..

 

I want to use the pwm, but it flat out doesn't like me or my setup. @ this point IMPORT vs DOMESTIC is around the corner, and the manual is out performing the pwm for now, so thats why it's on the car. I guess you just jumped in the thread, and didn't read anything....lol

 

So if you are having issues with gaining boost quickly using the 25hz solenoid perhaps might help? I dont understand exactly what the differences would be between these two solenoids are? Is it because it uses a different frequency it is able to apply boost quicker?

 

Not really sure, I was kinda wondering the same thing. I know nothing about the hz and what not, all these electronic ones are new to me. Me and my old fashion manual have bneen getting it done for years now...lol

 

Well I mean manuals are great and all, but they cant do boost by gear I know there they were dual stage controllers, but those put the boost at two different levels. So I would iike to continue using the pwm from hondata..

 

I would like to as well, but as I stated it just flat out isn't building the boost that the car needs, when the pwm is hooked up, who knows maybe it's defective?

 

My buddies integra has the same issue, it builds boost the same way it builds on the wg spring and then slowly adds psi as rpm increases.

Him and I are both on hondata S300 and have same mac sols. I just recently set mine up and it works great. to get more spool responce out of mine i simply did the duty cycle up and up to see what duty = what psi and then i setup boost by gear. in the lower rpm range i told the s300 that i wanted 3-4 more psi then i actually want and this increase the spool responce of the turbo. Im running a t3 sc63 with a .82 hotside and stage 5 wheel and i am getting 16 psi by 5500

try adding duty cycle lower in rpms even so far as 100% to keep that gate closed. Also the turbo starts making boost before you see it in the intake manifold so drill/tap your turbo housing and put a 1/8 npt fitting in there to port 1 on the aem then 3 is vented and 2 to the top port. im not to familiar with neptune but if its like s300 you have a sol activation pressure. set that low so its starts working sooner and keeping that gate closed. ive found setting mine at 4 psi works best but all are different. see what woks for you best

My boost by gear works decent and holds the pressure im looking for and gets there in a decent amount of time but nothing beats an EBC. I used to have a turbosmart eboost and that thing was amazing. it had gate pressure setting and would hold the wg shut completely untill the desired boost pressure you input into the unit. i used to keep the gate closed untill 2 psi below deired. On wg and mbc i would get 22 psi at like 6500rpm once i got the eboost working right i was getting 22 psi at 4500rpm on a t4 super 60 with a.96 hotside on a LS motor