TABIAS

Hey guys, I've been a member of the family for a few weeks now, and love every second of it, but I've got a few worries about my turbo it's self. It's a Garrett t3 with a A/R of .42, I pulled this turbo off of a Sabb 900 last year at a junk yard, turbo is in great condition and no shaft play at all. When Mased tuned my set up this past week, he set the boost for 8psi on a stock JDM b18c motor, with INLINEPRO headgasket (which lowered the compression to 9:1 verses the 10:1) When under full throttle the needle on my boost gauge will rarely hit 8 but mostly stays around 5psi but will drop as the car gets to a higher rpm level. From 4000-5000 8psi, 5000-6000 5psi, 6000-7000 3psi - 2 psi. Needless to say I'm not happy with it's performance, I'd like to hold a constant 8psi all the way to redline. Would a t3t4 solve this problem or is there some type of leak in my piping? Any help would be appreciated.
thanks

TurboBumblBee

there may be a leak in the pipes.. check that first before spending all the money on a new turbo unless you really wnat more power..

as for the headgasket, i could be wrong but i didnt think inlinepro made a headgasket that would lower the compression that much, so you might be running a higher compression then you think

turboH22Aakkord

thats what i was thinking... 10 to 9 by just switching gaskets.. holy **** sign me up!! haha

TABIAS

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turboH22Aakkord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats what i was thinking... 10 to 9 by just switching gaskets.. holy **** sign me up!! haha </TD></TR></TABLE>

I just got off the phone with INlinePro and I gave him your name

it does just that it's a 3mm gastket

thanks so far, I'll go check the IC piping

Joseph Davis

Check for wastegate actuator/linkage binding, it sounds like you have an internal gate... actuator opens at 8 psi and then sticks.

I think a 3mm headgasket is a bad idea. Adding 0.118" to your quench in exchange for a point of CR is a poor substitute for proper tuning.

edit: I also think you'd be happier with a bigger turbo. 8 psi on that Saab unit is probably more than it can flow on a properly set up GSR.

TurboBumblBee

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I think a 3mm headgasket is a bad idea. Adding 0.118" to your quench in exchange for a point of CR is a poor substitute for proper tuning.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

agreeed...

Charlie Moua

iTrader: (3)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check for wastegate actuator/linkage binding, it sounds like you have an internal gate... actuator opens at 8 psi and then sticks.

I think a 3mm headgasket is a bad idea. Adding 0.118" to your quench in exchange for a point of CR is a poor substitute for proper tuning.

edit: I also think you'd be happier with a bigger turbo. 8 psi on that Saab unit is probably more than it can flow on a properly set up GSR.</TD></TR></TABLE>

one of my buddies had the same issue on his greddy 18G. It turns out he had a bad spring for the internal WG.
I don't think that a thicker HG is a bad idea at all. Even though you do no need it since you only pushing 8psi with a small turbo. I'll be using a small bb turbo myself on stock gsr compression.... should be fine up to 10-12psi.

I think that turbo is fine if you like the repsonse and if your satifyed with the powerband. That turbo is not to small. Even though at 8psi on a t3t4you would make and *** load of more power.

Joseph Davis

Quench = octane equivalent. You lose a large amount of burn quality in your combustion chamber when you sacrifice it for the lower adabiatic heating and poorer cylinder filling/evacuation of a lower CR when using a thicker headgasket. It's a rig job. If you had proper engine controls, completely affordable on any budget due to Uberdata, there is no point in going through the expense and hassle of a thicker headgasket which creates as many problems as people think it solves.

.50 trim T3 on an LS or B16 has the compressor maxed out at 10 psi. On a GSR, you're blowing a lot of hot air and way off your efficiency island at 10-12 psi. Go plot it yourself on the turbocalculator at Ray Hall's site if you don't believe me.

.48 AR is a **** in the *** on a GSR. A straight T3 works well on a D-series or low revving LS, although even those engines like the .63 housing, but you're choking down on a B16 with the .48 AR and on a GSR you're wasting your time. Please keep in mind that these are OEM turbine wheels! An OEM .63 setup is more restrictive than the usual stage 3 clipped .63 setup that comes on aftermarket T3/4!

Charlie Moua

iTrader: (3)

damn.... great info.

IM you
maybe you can help me out a little.

TABIAS

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Charlie Moua &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damn.... great info. </TD></TR></TABLE> agreed


yes it is, ok i checked and rechecked my IC piping, and still no full 8psi, Actually I plan on running 10psi in about 2 weeks when I get a friend to tune the car for me, as far as tuning goes I've got dsm 450cc's and Vafc .... at first I was a fan, but now I'm let down by the hack, Uberdata is what's next, either that or hondata. Yes I want more power and I feel that on a t3t4 I can make a constant 10psi untill redline, My WG is a tial 35mm with a 6 pound spring. How could I tell if something is wrong with the spring? It makes a nasty, gargluing sound at idol, and when i get on the gas it's dies out. No idea so far, but I do plan on upgrading to a t3t4 but I wanted the general consisence before I go and spend 500.00 (used from a friend)
thanks