Sup guys! Hit a little kink in the road. 2000 integra. Been tuning on the car and so far everything's been good for the last month. Today I noticed a burning/hot wire smell. Turns out it's the positive wire to my aftermarket fuel pump.

The fuel pump wiring sits as follows. I have A relay wired in.. it's grounded to chassis. The fuel pump is wired correctly. The wire from oem harness (green/yellow) wire is what got hot since thats what I'm using as my signal.. So it's --->oem harness----->new wire----->wire to inline fuse/fuse----->toggle switch------> relay

The wire that got hot was the new wire after the oem harness and in front of the inline fuse. Everything past the fuse was good. Fuse did not blow. The whole wire was warm to touch but the 2 spots where I crimped the new wire were clearly hot and started to melt the wire.. My theory is that either the fuse I had in there (30 amp green) is too big and allowing too much current orr... that the wire I had used to connect from inline fuse to oem harness was too small. I have some 16g wire to run from oem harness (green/yellow) to the inline fuse. Also the oem fuse that sends signal/power to the fuel pump didn't blow either. If anyone can help chime in that would be great. Thanks

 

You should do factory power wire to fuel pump on the control side of the relay and a large gauge wire I.E. 10 gauge from a battery constant source to the supply side of the relay. Relay pin 85 or 86 wire for factory fuel pump wire. which ever one you don't use to chassis ground. Wire from the battery or power distribution block(Large gauge) to pin 30 or 87 and which every one you don't use goes to fuel pump. you can toss a fuse in either before or after the relay. You can do some googling to find the normal current draw of your fuel pump.

 

12g or 10g should be what you use. Nothing smaller than 12g for sure.

 

Just bought some for my upcoming fuel pump wiring upgrade

 

Found this diagram which looks like what I've got. So which wire needs to be the thicker wire??? I can rip out the wiring I have now I'm on vacation this week

 

All the wires that you add need to be 12g or larger.. (Remember; the smaller the number, the BIGGER the wire!)
Basically, The power wire you add from the battery and all wires after the relay. Use the stock power wire for relay signal only.. You'll be golden..

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced...-pump-3279999/

 

Would you guys put the battery in the trunk to simplify this or stick with it up front?

 

I kept mine in the bay. Ran wires through the firewall harness plug.. BOOSTD posted the writeup for this that was simple enough for even ME to follow. Lol! It helps a lot with this process.

 

That would complicate not simplify... I’d leave up front unless it’s a race car

 

Ok thanks guys to sum it up: pin 86 will get the (oem wire) signal wire + kill switch. Pin 85 will be my ground to chassis. Pin 87 will get the power to fuel pumps and last but not least pin 30 will get the wire to battery with inline fuse.

And to keep it simple here's how the switch gets wired in?

 

Use thick wire where I highlighted thick. Wire the stock two wires for the fuel pump as shown - I don't believe polarity matters for terminals 85 & 86.

 

Thank you all for the information. Turns out I had the relay wired wrong. At least the pumps were wired right 😂😂 I had the 30 wired to the oem signal wire and the 86 was wired to the toggle switch and that was wired...somewhere??? Anyways I cut that wire. I ditched the toggle switch and ran the 86 pin wire to the oem signal wire and ran a line to the battery with a fuse. It's DEFINITELY a big difference in fuel pump for sure. Thank you guys for your help. Yall are the best!!

Now excuse me while I watch qualifying for the daytona 500 ✌