Fuel Pressure Drop Issue
whoa that Is not normal. thats showing a massive restriction. I dont think you should ever be seeing double the pressure before the filter, maybe a little, but not that much!
that would explain why you see a drop under load. supply> demand. without running or at idle demand is very low, so ypu wont see a drop even with nasty restrictions till you ramp up the demand.
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that would explain why you see a drop under load. supply> demand. without running or at idle demand is very low, so ypu wont see a drop even with nasty restrictions till you ramp up the demand.
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hmm..do you have a way to bypass ypur filter and measure fuel pressure before the rail? just to check off things that may or may not be the culprit.
also, does your fuel line setup retain any of those oem banjo bolts they had on the filter and fuel rail? cause those definitely will cause an issue if theyre screwed in too far or not far enough.
Posted from Honda-tech.com App for Android
also, does your fuel line setup retain any of those oem banjo bolts they had on the filter and fuel rail? cause those definitely will cause an issue if theyre screwed in too far or not far enough.
Posted from Honda-tech.com App for Android
hmm..do you have a way to bypass ypur filter and measure fuel pressure before the rail? just to check off things that may or may not be the culprit.
also, does your fuel line setup retain any of those oem banjo bolts they had on the filter and fuel rail? cause those definitely will cause an issue if theyre screwed in too far or not far enough.
Posted from Honda-tech.com App for Android
also, does your fuel line setup retain any of those oem banjo bolts they had on the filter and fuel rail? cause those definitely will cause an issue if theyre screwed in too far or not far enough.
Posted from Honda-tech.com App for Android

just to let you know i am using stock fuel pump cap and -6 feed/return all the way from the back to the front. i am not using any stock components! so it goes like this:
walbro 255hp intank pump with sock --> stock fuel pump cap --> -6 feed --> mech fuel press gauge and aeromotive fuel filter --> -6 to BDL rail --> -6 to Weldon FPR -->-6 return line fully to the back to the stock fuel cap
i will remove the fuel tank check valve and see if that going to help and will change my current alternator and replace it with a new OEM one at the same time. will update later tonight!
yeah from the sound of your setup your filter either is very restrictice or your fuel fuel line has a kink after your pressure gauge, or the rail itself has something causing a restriction
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Posted from Honda-tech.com App for Android
wanted to update you guys! the problem is fixed! here is what i did:
1- replaced the old alternator with a new OEM
2- removed the fuel tank check valve (it seems it was clogged)
3- replaced my weldon fpr with my old aeromotive one
4- bypassed the fuel filter
whoop idle AF went from 14.4 to 10! and the fuel pump noise is reduced dramatically now!
BUT now i have another issue during the test i DIDNT take my laptop with me to tune the VE tables as i wasnt expecting the issue to get fixed and the car shut down on me because of fouling plugs (running too rich 7.4 AFR when boosted to be exact). i only stepped on here twice to 7k rev limit. i'm a bit worried if i damaged anything internally in the engine? had spare new NGK spare plugs with me and put them on and tried cranking it many many times hoping i can drive her back home, but with no luck. i had to tow her back home with the help of my 4x4 and when i removed the new plugs i installed a few mins ago the pistons are shining and covered with fuel. i even saw a lot of black un-burned fuel. left the plugs out so the fuel can evaporate
the question is...do you think i damaged anything in the engine now? whats the worst scenario?
1- replaced the old alternator with a new OEM
2- removed the fuel tank check valve (it seems it was clogged)
3- replaced my weldon fpr with my old aeromotive one
4- bypassed the fuel filter
whoop idle AF went from 14.4 to 10! and the fuel pump noise is reduced dramatically now!
BUT now i have another issue during the test i DIDNT take my laptop with me to tune the VE tables as i wasnt expecting the issue to get fixed and the car shut down on me because of fouling plugs (running too rich 7.4 AFR when boosted to be exact). i only stepped on here twice to 7k rev limit. i'm a bit worried if i damaged anything internally in the engine? had spare new NGK spare plugs with me and put them on and tried cranking it many many times hoping i can drive her back home, but with no luck. i had to tow her back home with the help of my 4x4 and when i removed the new plugs i installed a few mins ago the pistons are shining and covered with fuel. i even saw a lot of black un-burned fuel. left the plugs out so the fuel can evaporate
the question is...do you think i damaged anything in the engine now? whats the worst scenario?
Last edited by IntegraTypeR; Sep 9, 2013 at 03:45 AM.
Towed back? Just remove a ton of fuel from the fuel tables. Start with 25% and get it back to the tuner.
Crank it over with the plugs out. The fuel will shoot out the top.
So the cause was either 2 or 4. Id like to know which part it was actually. Try putting the fuel filter back inline - you need one anyways.
Crank it over with the plugs out. The fuel will shoot out the top.
So the cause was either 2 or 4. Id like to know which part it was actually. Try putting the fuel filter back inline - you need one anyways.
hmm does the check valve go before or after the pumps? I havent messed with any of that **** back there on mine yet.
I dont think you hurt anything, but do what muckman said. crank it with no plugs and let it spit out all that fuel before you try starting it again.
also agree, put the filter back on. its not good to run without one. hopefulky the filter wasnt the cause and the checkvalve was
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I dont think you hurt anything, but do what muckman said. crank it with no plugs and let it spit out all that fuel before you try starting it again.
also agree, put the filter back on. its not good to run without one. hopefulky the filter wasnt the cause and the checkvalve was
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also glad to see I was of some sort of help. like I said before I am by no means an expert or even highly knowledgable about a lot of this stuff, im just good at using google and sherlocking it
Posted from Honda-tech.com App for Android
Posted from Honda-tech.com App for Android
Towed back? Just remove a ton of fuel from the fuel tables. Start with 25% and get it back to the tuner.
Crank it over with the plugs out. The fuel will shoot out the top.
So the cause was either 2 or 4. Id like to know which part it was actually. Try putting the fuel filter back inline - you need one anyways.
Crank it over with the plugs out. The fuel will shoot out the top.
So the cause was either 2 or 4. Id like to know which part it was actually. Try putting the fuel filter back inline - you need one anyways.
to let you know i'm the tuner and i already set my hondata overall fuel trim to -10 and tried -40 thats with the base fuel pressure of 40psi. i didnt crank the engine over with the plugs removed, but just left the plug holes open to evap. i think it should be evaporated by now. will check coil, igniter, check plugs produce a good spark to ground, check inj if they are still operational and do a quick compression test, but i put new plugs back in there and crank her up
about the fuel filter thats what i'm going to do cause i dont think its safe depending on the intank filter to keep the fuel system filtered. i am 100% sure it was a combo of fuel tank check valve being clogged and a bad Weldon fpr, cause those were the last two things i replaced and issue got fixed
hmm does the check valve go before or after the pumps? I havent messed with any of that **** back there on mine yet.
I dont think you hurt anything, but do what muckman said. crank it with no plugs and let it spit out all that fuel before you try starting it again.
also agree, put the filter back on. its not good to run without one. hopefulky the filter wasnt the cause and the checkvalve was
Posted from Honda-tech.com App for Android
I dont think you hurt anything, but do what muckman said. crank it with no plugs and let it spit out all that fuel before you try starting it again.
also agree, put the filter back on. its not good to run without one. hopefulky the filter wasnt the cause and the checkvalve was
Posted from Honda-tech.com App for Android
will follow Muckman instructions for sure
i appreciate it buddy! you were very supportive
Your fuel trim being at -40 may be why it won't start. It's affecting your cranking trims. Take 40% away from your idle rpms on the fuel map and set the overall trim to 0 then see what happens.
Originally Posted by IntegraTypeR
Quote:
Originally Posted by m4xwellmurd3r
hmm does the check valve go before or after the pumps? I havent messed with any of that **** back there on mine yet.
I dont think you hurt anything, but do what muckman said. crank it with no plugs and let it spit out all that fuel before you try starting it again.
also agree, put the filter back on. its not good to run without one. hopefulky the filter wasnt the cause and the checkvalve was
Posted from Honda-tech.com App for Android
check valve before or after the pump?!?! i was reffering to the fuel tank ventilation check valve! which is a vent hose connected to a check valve and routed to the front of the car where i believe gets connected to the stock canister. now its simple the fuel tank has three ports. one port for fuel feed, one for return and one for vent. the fuel refill cap has a spring there to release any pressure in the tank and the vent port is used to provide the tank with required inhaling vac/suction. The tank needs to see 0 VAC/pressure in it so the pump operate properly i believe. i did the math a while back and now i removed the check valve entirely and put a new refill fuel cap.
will follow Muckman instructions for sure
Originally Posted by m4xwellmurd3r
hmm does the check valve go before or after the pumps? I havent messed with any of that **** back there on mine yet.
I dont think you hurt anything, but do what muckman said. crank it with no plugs and let it spit out all that fuel before you try starting it again.
also agree, put the filter back on. its not good to run without one. hopefulky the filter wasnt the cause and the checkvalve was
Posted from Honda-tech.com App for Android
check valve before or after the pump?!?! i was reffering to the fuel tank ventilation check valve! which is a vent hose connected to a check valve and routed to the front of the car where i believe gets connected to the stock canister. now its simple the fuel tank has three ports. one port for fuel feed, one for return and one for vent. the fuel refill cap has a spring there to release any pressure in the tank and the vent port is used to provide the tank with required inhaling vac/suction. The tank needs to see 0 VAC/pressure in it so the pump operate properly i believe. i did the math a while back and now i removed the check valve entirely and put a new refill fuel cap.
will follow Muckman instructions for sure
Posted from Honda-tech.com App for Android
that has nothing to do with the issue as i read live AF during cranking and i see 10 afr....anwyays i found the issue! talk about bad luck, but one of my map sensor wires got broken at the solder point (used to run a motec 3bar map a while back)! soldered the wire back and engine runs like champ. thing is hondata didnt throw a code when i was cranking the engine all that time and hand to find the hard way.
lol ....dont research until its broken
Last edited by IntegraTypeR; Sep 9, 2013 at 03:50 AM.
that has nothing to do with the issue as i read live AF during cranking and i see 10 afr....anwyays i found the issue! talk about bad luck, but one of my map sensor wires got broken at the solder point (used to run a motec 3bar map a while back)! soldered the wire back and engine runs like champ. thing is hondata didnt throw a code when i was cranking the engine all that time and hand to find the hard way.
Originally Posted by IntegraTypeR
Quote:
Originally Posted by m4xwellmurd3r
got it! like I said, I havent messed with the fuel system much so I really havent looked at a diagram to see how everything is routed, im not sure how I forgot the tank has a vent line.
Posted from Honda-tech.com App for Android
lol ....dont research until its broken
Originally Posted by m4xwellmurd3r
got it! like I said, I havent messed with the fuel system much so I really havent looked at a diagram to see how everything is routed, im not sure how I forgot the tank has a vent line.
Posted from Honda-tech.com App for Android
lol ....dont research until its broken
no joke, 90% of the **** I fix on my car I learned by helping out people who broke their **** already, and by reading build threads.
Posted from Honda-tech.com App for Android
Guys guess what? i put the aeromotive fuel filter and the problem is back (fuel pressure drop when under boost)!!!! what?!?!?! bypass the fuel filter and the fuel pressure increases as it should be when boost kicks in. hmm....how would a aeromotive new inner element go bad in a few hours drive. if you read the original post you will notice that i replaced the old element with a new original one from aeromotive even though there were no signs of dirt or strange materials stuck in the filter.....the car is fine and to be in specific runs perfectly without the fuel filter, but i cant drive her around depending on the intank filter to keep my fuel system filtered.
any suggestions for a better flowing fuel filter? brand? micron?
any suggestions for a better flowing fuel filter? brand? micron?
this is off the invoice when i got the fuel filter:
AERO-12301 / Aeromotive Fuel Filter, 12301 10 Micron
now i mentioned that i replaced the filter and i believe its a new 10 micron filter, but i'm still looking for the invoice for that replacement element filter that i used
by the way before anyone ask's the filter is directed to the right flow direction pointing to the fuel rail!
AERO-12301 / Aeromotive Fuel Filter, 12301 10 Micron
now i mentioned that i replaced the filter and i believe its a new 10 micron filter, but i'm still looking for the invoice for that replacement element filter that i used
by the way before anyone ask's the filter is directed to the right flow direction pointing to the fuel rail!
That filter in theory should work great as long as you arent running e85.
Maybe yiu have a bad element? Is it possible to run it without an element to verify the problem is just a clogging filter?
Maybe yiu have a bad element? Is it possible to run it without an element to verify the problem is just a clogging filter?
found both invoices. now i bought this fuel filter like a few years back and its a 12301 10 Micron fuel filter and recently the element was replaced by me a few months ago using the 12601 Aeromotive replacement 10 micron filter element.
am surprized how would a new element be clogged?!?!?! could it be that the element has short shelf life? the element was still in its package i opened it and used it. the elemnt was bought in 2010 and stored all this time. those elements are cheap. will try a new one and see how it goes
am surprized how would a new element be clogged?!?!?! could it be that the element has short shelf life? the element was still in its package i opened it and used it. the elemnt was bought in 2010 and stored all this time. those elements are cheap. will try a new one and see how it goes
Last edited by IntegraTypeR; Sep 11, 2013 at 10:18 AM.
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