Clearances are all way too tight for 20w50. That's why the bearings look like they do.
Timing looks a little high for pump gas 93. Those are definately detonation hits and not preignition.

 

12 degrees @ 16psi on pump gas.... Whats the Comp on this setup? If it is 11.5 on pump, i'd say thats around what i'd run, depending on Fuel and AFR..

I did tune a b16 setup to around 27psi on pump gas, it was a 9:1 comp, took around 17 degrees total timing.. AFR's around 12.0, on the dyno this was where the best power / safe useable timing was. Could have made a tad more but it was a daily car and didn't wanna push it.

 

Bearings that flake the coating like that are usually the result of detonation caught early. It's not likely detonation from bad timing melted just one area of one piston. Most likely there was some oil getting in there to make the piston extremely hot, which will create detonation regardless of timing.

If you do some research, CP had some issues with their pistons melting next to the intake reliefs. It was a combination of oil getting into the chamber and the thin material next to the relief not able to dissipate that heat. The oil was from leaking valve seals or poorly vented crankcases pushing oil thru the rings into the chamber. Their solution was to notch the side of the relief (as you see on nearly all aftermarket Honda pistons now) and warn customers to ensure their crankcase vents & valve seals were all working properly.

 

your mains are on the tight side for my taste.
What kind of bearings?
My 500whp setup has .0019-.0020 across all journals

rod bearings are ridiculous tight. But its quite obvious who wrote this out should practice more with math. rod #1 is .0008, but #2 is .00010? Per OEM spec, rod bearing clearances range from .0008-.0015, and you want looser bearings on boosted setups.

my rod bearing clearances were .0017-.0020 with acl race bearings, same bearings for mains.

 

Holy eff man your bearings are way too tight. I went for .0018 mains, .0022 for the center main, and
0015 rids (wanred .0018 but didnt have money to buy more oem bearings, .0015 is fine)

Your spec sheet points to an engine that WILL blow up

 

those are oem specs


stock block motors run forever with boost..

 

Except his number 4 rod (I think) was showing .0001, which is retarded tight

 

Ok I know it's been a while guys. All your input has been very helpful and I appreciate it. I have finally saved up the money and decided what to do with my project. I am going to use Supertech low compression pistons (9.5/1). I am going to run on pump gas (93 octane). I am going to order Mitutoyo micrometers and dial bore gauges. Also piston ring pliars, ARP ring compressor tool, ring filer etc and do this whole build myself. I will run my mains and rod bearings between .018 and .020". And last but certainly not least I will be using a tuner with a much better reputation. I'll keep you updates as things progress.

 

Not at 11.5:1 400whp+ on 93 lol.

Not to mention forged components do not expand like cast ones.

 

You have that backwards...

 

I figured the way I worded it would be scrutinized. But it still an accurate statement

 

He said " they do not expand like cast ones"

Meaning they expand differently than cast. Didnt specify which one expands more.

Jeezus

 

Oh, yeah... whoops LOL! I see people deleted comments too that were on my side. Meh, that's what happens when you are vague.

 

Please PM me the tuner you used so I don't mess up and go there. I have retarded money in my set-up and don't need issues.

 

Would it be OK to ask.. How much the tuner charged?
Damn, I wish I could learn to tune my own.

 

Whats stopping you

 

Nothing mental I hope.
Haven't been able to spare funds for new EMS and wideband in a long time.
You, and other's who do it give me inspiration.

 

Ive been reading and experimenting for a few months now.

Its something that definitely comes with experience.

Reading plugs takes time to learn. You can read till your eyes bleed but you really need to buy a bunch of plugs and pull them in and out as you make changes to learn whats doing what.

If youre committed to learning it gets easier and easier as you go.

 

It helps i started with a really basic low power kit I couldn't really get myself into too much trouble lol.

Xenocron has a decent writeup for crome and there are some books out there that help.

I just recently took the High Performance academy 101 class and taking the road tuning course next month.

 

I bought a lot of the books that everyone usually recommend and while interesting reads, most of them are not very good for beginners. More along the lines of too much broad based info too fast. VegasInvasion's CROME tuning guide is probably the best without a doubt when it comes to CROME. Another good free source is AEM's instruction manual. You just have to learn how to read between the lines when reading platform specific manuals. The problem with a lot of the books is that they try to be vague and general, but if you have ever tuned something, you know they are generalizing off of one or two EMS that are usually very high end.

Reading plugs is your most important skill set you should hone though. In reality everything else is truly just a guessing game since no two engines are identical in the tune itself.

 

Learn To Tune EFI - Online Courses From FASTuuN EFI Simplified ? FASTuuN EFI Simplified

I took this course. It helped me tune my setup myself. It really helped bring everything that I had learned on my own all together in a way that made sense to me. I recommend it to anyone wanting to learn how to tune.

 

What was some of the main points that the course helped you grasp? Looks pretty cool

 

Well, all I know is I stated tuning my first standalone 12 years ago and still learning. It's always evolving...

 

These are the guys I follow on facebook/instagram and are taking webinars through.

https://www.hpacademy.com/

They actually post alot of useful, and interesting topics weekly.

After taking the 101 course its nice to have a foundation for the stuff I've been doing. Some little myths debunked and questions I've always had in my mind. Its all been seat of the pants otherwise for me lol. I would just leave my laptop in the car between classes and on the way back to my apartment do a pull on this one road I always took. Look at logs make adjustments, next time I go to class same thing. Sometimes I would just get in and go do 5-10 pulls on some country roads. It was slow enough that sufficed lol. No way could I do that on anything but nice highway stretch now.

 

It basically covers everything lol. I think it's over 20 hours worth of videos. I had done years of research on my own but this course just really helped bring all that knowledge together so I could actually apply it.