Forced Induction Detonation Damage?
If that isnt already selected how did this **** tune your motor under boost?
Op- what are the specs your builder set everything to?
Bearing clearance and ptw should be at least noted somewhere
He did say that he was using very conservative timing settings. I'm under the impression that no matter what the timing was set to that detonation was inevitable. I know the tuner set up the map sensor. It is an AEM 5 bar.
Can you post a pic of just the 2d side? Slide the center bar all the way to the right so just the left side is visible. We need to see the timing values under the boost columns.
ummmm...im a hondata noob but is this thing running 11.5 degrees at idle?...
the timing looks a bit low below 3000 rpm but i dont think its insanely low.
in the past i have seen motors that have had coolant in the oil wear the face of the bearing off. this looks like it was that plus some detonation wear. what were the specs overall like ptw, main and rod bearing tolerances? i find it odd that there is excessive cylinder wear on the sides of the cylinders. what kind of clutch did you have and what did the thrust washers look like.
just looks like the synergy of a few bad things like poor tune and possible improper build all acting up at once. on the rebuild i would shoot for something around 10:1 and then go at it again with 93 pump. good luck!
the timing looks a bit low below 3000 rpm but i dont think its insanely low.
in the past i have seen motors that have had coolant in the oil wear the face of the bearing off. this looks like it was that plus some detonation wear. what were the specs overall like ptw, main and rod bearing tolerances? i find it odd that there is excessive cylinder wear on the sides of the cylinders. what kind of clutch did you have and what did the thrust washers look like.
just looks like the synergy of a few bad things like poor tune and possible improper build all acting up at once. on the rebuild i would shoot for something around 10:1 and then go at it again with 93 pump. good luck!
OP, for 93 and boost I'd stay in the 10-10.5 neighborhood since you'll have to pull a fair amount of timing just to make it all cooperate on pump gasif you stay above 11......also consider the occasional octane variances from one gas station to the next who may offer subpar fuel formulations unless your always buying from say Shell
Added the full tables ^
There was no coolant in the oil and the oil was clean when I removed it. I haven't removed the crankshaft so I don't have pics of the thrust washers yet. I am running an ACT light weight flywheel, 6 puck sprung disk and HD pressure plate.
There was no coolant in the oil and the oil was clean when I removed it. I haven't removed the crankshaft so I don't have pics of the thrust washers yet. I am running an ACT light weight flywheel, 6 puck sprung disk and HD pressure plate.
Not to compare my setup vs. yours.... BUT if you were to compare my 93 tuned B16 highcam timing against yours... your running roughly 4 deg higher at 7-8 psi vs mine and I've been doing some pretty extensive timing adjustments lately since I can listen for knock using a homemade det can setup (+other devices) so I'm about 1.5 deg away from where it generally starts to ping as a margin that I may push back another .5 deg.
Keep in mind that their an innumerable number of factors here and the stroke and R/S ratio plays a role in the timing needed too so in your case you may need a bit more on average but from your story its clear your tuner wasn't competent for the job which was unfortunate.
Keep in mind that their an innumerable number of factors here and the stroke and R/S ratio plays a role in the timing needed too so in your case you may need a bit more on average but from your story its clear your tuner wasn't competent for the job which was unfortunate.
I will be purchasing new Supertech pistons, Rings and rod bearings. I will also purchase all the needed measuring and specialty tools to complete this rebuild myself. I figure I might as well spend money on tools this time as opposed to trying to find another shop. I will update this thread as I progress with checking all the clearances against the builders spec sheet. And as I progress with this new build.
Thanks
Thanks
Yea rod bearings are like holy crap tight. It seems that yor motor was built to oem ls specs. Id want those ring gaps bigger too something like .020-.024 top n second respectively.
Im in for afrs
Im in for afrs
Under "rings" it says thirds, lol. I would be pissed if someone handed me a spec sheet like that. Those clearences are f'd and you should have known not to even run that motor with those specs.
I'm in for afrs too.
The tune had way too much timing for a high 11.5CR on 93 pump at 16 psi...
Every set up is different but I can estimate that some part of the ignition map has at least 3-5* too much advance. That's (or was) an E85 setup.
2.0lsvek, the rods are too tight and if you go with E85 I would not go as big on the PTW clearance. I would pick around 0.003'' for the Supertech piston. This would reduce piston slap a lot.
Every set up is different but I can estimate that some part of the ignition map has at least 3-5* too much advance. That's (or was) an E85 setup.
2.0lsvek, the rods are too tight and if you go with E85 I would not go as big on the PTW clearance. I would pick around 0.003'' for the Supertech piston. This would reduce piston slap a lot.





