JDM H22

Im going to run 7 psi on a 57 trim t3/t4 on an H22. I have both the fmu and the BTM. Am I just wasting my time. Should I sell them and run a chipped p28 instead? ( should cost about the same right?). Any draw backs toward either way?

97turboteg

for sure, sell the FMU and MSD BTM and get a chipped p28 with your mods chipped onto it....thats what im using...

SOHC_MShue

get a chipped ecu and bigger injectors

kasso

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97turboteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for sure, sell the FMU and MSD BTM and get a chipped p28 with your mods chipped onto it....thats what im using... </TD></TR></TABLE>

^^ typical H-T response, just suggest what you have with no reasoning.

FMU: if you have a 12:1 (which everyone and their moms usually use), at 7 psi boost, you're at 85psi at the fuel rail overloading your injectors. Yes it will work but for how long reliably?

BTM: I'm not too sure about the specs of this, but I do know it pulls timing based on boost. What I understand from the descriptions, it has set levels to pull timing; so again, it will work but for how long reliably:

Chipped ECU: you can get one that's already chipped for about $150-$175 right here on H-T. You can run a basemap, but I would highly recommend a tuner to tune the setup right away.

I would go with the ECU because I know for a fact I wouldn't be satisfied at 7psi for too long.

em1 Ziggy

chipped ecu with a very good basemap to run the car to a local tuner and getting it tuned ASAP

JDM H22

I probably should have mentioned that I have a vafc and some 450s as well. If I ever wanted to change the boost, I would have to get the ecu retuned all over again right??. With the vafc I could raise boost a couple pounds with less trouble then changing the ecu right? Thanks again for the help

Jay_Sensing

Once you have a good tune on your ECU, it is scaled to the max your map sensor can read (using CROME at least, don't know about others) and you can vary between boost levels to the extent your motor/injectors can handle.

The problem with an FMU is although it will allow you to run the car with a turbo, it's beating the hell out of your injectors and also has a nice healthy lean spot everytime you car crosses over from vacuum to boost. I ran one for a long time about 5 years ago because at the time, there were no other options I knew about.

Now with all the options we have, there is no reason to even consider it just on the safety/driveability factor alone of a well tuned shipped ECU.

Turbo O

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM H22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I probably should have mentioned that I have a vafc and some 450s as well. If I ever wanted to change the boost, I would have to get the ecu retuned all over again right??. With the vafc I could raise boost a couple pounds with less trouble then changing the ecu right? Thanks again for the help</TD></TR></TABLE>

i'm guessing that you meant the AVCR not the VAFC. the AVCR is the one the lets you rasie and lower boost per gear even. the VAFC is for vtec, fuel and timing control. well its really for fuel contol but also effects the timing when you change the fuel since its all off the same map.

so i would say sell that too. get the AVCR instead, its strictly for boost control only so it wont have any control of your fuel/timing. get a good tune but dont put that VAFC piggyback **** on or else it will expletive you your tuned basemap also.

0mtber

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