fmu with 450cc
so you have an idea of the 2, here is my experience between the 2.
98' B18b swap in a 92 DX hatch
12:1 FMU + Missing link + Walbro255 + timing back down about 5 degrees. with stock injectors. I'd check the AFR's with a wideband and check plugs for any detonation. FMU if used correctly will be ok if ran at 6-7psi and 10psi at the track. I made 242whp 200ftlbs on 8.5psi with FMU. At 11psi my AFR's were sittin at 12.0-12.3:1 afr's on a T4-T04E turbo. (a while back).
Ran 13.0 @ 106 on street tires @ 6psi
Ran 12.6 @ 105 on 20' MT slicks @ 6psi
Ran 12.2 @ 109 on 22' M&H slicks @ 10psi
(92 dx hatch)
But for the same price you could get a set of injectors + walbro255 + socketed ECU and run Chrome/Uberdata or the like. Make more power, more reliable, more drivable... just much better.
same setup ran the following on Uberdata + RC440's
Ran 11.9 @ 114 on 22' M&H slicks @ 10psi
Ran 12.2 @ 123 on street tires @ 18psi
Ran 11.58 @ 122 on 22' M&H slicks @ 20psi
(^ low mph because i blew at charge pipe at the 1000ft)
Modified by JDMs1eeper at 8:39 PM 2/12/2006
Modified by JDMs1eeper at 8:40 PM 2/12/2006
Modified by JDMs1eeper at 8:41 PM 2/12/2006
98' B18b swap in a 92 DX hatch
12:1 FMU + Missing link + Walbro255 + timing back down about 5 degrees. with stock injectors. I'd check the AFR's with a wideband and check plugs for any detonation. FMU if used correctly will be ok if ran at 6-7psi and 10psi at the track. I made 242whp 200ftlbs on 8.5psi with FMU. At 11psi my AFR's were sittin at 12.0-12.3:1 afr's on a T4-T04E turbo. (a while back).
Ran 13.0 @ 106 on street tires @ 6psi
Ran 12.6 @ 105 on 20' MT slicks @ 6psi
Ran 12.2 @ 109 on 22' M&H slicks @ 10psi
(92 dx hatch)
But for the same price you could get a set of injectors + walbro255 + socketed ECU and run Chrome/Uberdata or the like. Make more power, more reliable, more drivable... just much better.
same setup ran the following on Uberdata + RC440's
Ran 11.9 @ 114 on 22' M&H slicks @ 10psi
Ran 12.2 @ 123 on street tires @ 18psi
Ran 11.58 @ 122 on 22' M&H slicks @ 20psi
(^ low mph because i blew at charge pipe at the 1000ft)
Modified by JDMs1eeper at 8:39 PM 2/12/2006
Modified by JDMs1eeper at 8:40 PM 2/12/2006
Modified by JDMs1eeper at 8:41 PM 2/12/2006
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no, the dsms MAX OUT at 300 whp. xenocron proved this. yer gonna need at least some 550s to get to 360 whp. the fmu just hurts your injectors and will cause an injector failure soonor or later.
and if u get a nice safe basemap, u wont need the fmu at all
and if u get a nice safe basemap, u wont need the fmu at all
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by I Have an STD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no, the dsms MAX OUT at 300 whp. xenocron proved this. yer gonna need at least some 550s to get to 360 whp. the fmu just hurts your injectors and will cause an injector failure soonor or later.
and if u get a nice safe basemap, u wont need the fmu at all</TD></TR></TABLE>
actualy, I personaly made 366whp and 275ftlbs with RC440's.
With a base rail pressure of 95psi, they were at 100% duty cycle from 8,000-8,500. AFR's were in the mid 11's then started to raise to about 11.7:1
Now... Thats what i call maxen them out.
and if u get a nice safe basemap, u wont need the fmu at all</TD></TR></TABLE>
actualy, I personaly made 366whp and 275ftlbs with RC440's.
With a base rail pressure of 95psi, they were at 100% duty cycle from 8,000-8,500. AFR's were in the mid 11's then started to raise to about 11.7:1
Now... Thats what i call maxen them out.
inline pro was running in the 10's years ago with a FMU, 450's, missing link, afc and 255lph pump
I ran the above set up for 2 years on my stock ITR bottom end with inline pro head gasket and block guard. I ran 14psi daily and 17psi on race gas with the 18G. never dynoed but it was probably pretty close to 300whp the car ran 12.86@116mph on BFG's with that set up.
It was very rich no matter what and the AFC would mess with timing is you went to far so we kept it realllllly conservative.
just because my set up lasted doesn't mean yours will just go crome and be done with it
I ran the above set up for 2 years on my stock ITR bottom end with inline pro head gasket and block guard. I ran 14psi daily and 17psi on race gas with the 18G. never dynoed but it was probably pretty close to 300whp the car ran 12.86@116mph on BFG's with that set up.
It was very rich no matter what and the AFC would mess with timing is you went to far so we kept it realllllly conservative.
just because my set up lasted doesn't mean yours will just go crome and be done with it
pretty much you have two choices:
1. the chipped ecu, bigger injectors, and intank pump
2. the fmu, missing link, inline pump and stock injectors.
if you have the chipped ecu then there is no need for the fmu, whatever program you run can add the needed fuel. if you stick with the FMU and stock ecu then you should keep the stock injectors so that it runs smoothly out of boost. if you try to run 450's on an ecu that is programed for 240's then you can forget about idling or smooth part throttle response what so ever. you might be able to add an afc to "tune" the 450's but what a PITA.
chipped ecu = more power and reliability.
1. the chipped ecu, bigger injectors, and intank pump
2. the fmu, missing link, inline pump and stock injectors.
if you have the chipped ecu then there is no need for the fmu, whatever program you run can add the needed fuel. if you stick with the FMU and stock ecu then you should keep the stock injectors so that it runs smoothly out of boost. if you try to run 450's on an ecu that is programed for 240's then you can forget about idling or smooth part throttle response what so ever. you might be able to add an afc to "tune" the 450's but what a PITA.
chipped ecu = more power and reliability.
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