seanclark

got a d16z6 turbo and im gonna do a forged rebuild with 9.0:1 .020 bore pistons,h beam rods,arp head studs. its the first time ive ever done anything like this so im just wondering if anyones got any little tips or anything i should pay particular attention to ? im going to take the block to a machine shop to get it bored honed and notched for the rods and i have the oem manual, if i follow this should i be ok ? thanks

lodo1

pretty much your on the right track. take the block and pistons and rods to the machine shop, let them balance it. also your helms manual is your new best friend.

also, dont have too many people helping you with the deal.

sohc_turd

some type of organizational system works wonders. I just finished my second motor build/rebuild recently and as stupid as it sounds, i learned that using little baggies to organize nuts, bolts, bearings helps speed things up... don't forget to label them too.

P.S. always run a tap into the head to clear out the crap.

seanclark

any more handy tips before i start taking things to bits ?

mamaboy

measure before you take it to the machine shop. measure when you get it back. and make sure you take a air line and clean every crevice out.

SOHCD16y8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mamaboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">measure before you take it to the machine shop. measure when you get it back. and make sure you take a air line and clean every crevice out.</TD></TR></TABLE> Yeah, I had a machine shop over bore my block and totally **** it up, once.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by unbanned_evosol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">some type of organizational system works wonders. I just finished my second motor build/rebuild recently and as stupid as it sounds, i learned that using little baggies to organize nuts, bolts, bearings helps speed things up... don't forget to label them too. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ive always used baggies, they work great, and when im done I just save them and use them on my next build, It will save you a lot of time.

hondaxsimike

orginization and cleanliness is the key. when you build a motor, be absolutely **** about everything and you'll be ok.

l2yanE

plastigauge is ur friend, use it well, and make sure it all fits good-

EnzoSpeed

USE A STRETCH GAUGE ON THE ROD BOLTS!

RACEPAK

more

B6tPoweredMx3

And above all.
TAKE YOUR ******* TIME!
Its not a race if you think you may have messed up on something go back to it and make sure that you didnt and if you did and cant seem to get it right find someone who has rebuilt an engine before and have them help.

sohc_turd

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B6tPoweredMx3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And above all.
TAKE YOUR ******* TIME!
Its not a race if you think you may have messed up on something go back to it and make sure that you didnt and if you did and cant seem to get it right find someone who has rebuilt an engine before and have them help.</TD></TR></TABLE>

True that... my most recent build, for some reason i thought it was a race... I started with a bare block at 3pm, and by 2am it was installed in my car. one thing that really pissed me off was the little ring gasket on the oil pump fell out and i found it on the ground after i put the oil pan on... i also forgot the oil pick up once too.... take your time.

2muchboost2blow

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EnzoSpeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">USE A STRETCH GAUGE ON THE ROD BOLTS! </TD></TR></TABLE>
how does a stretch gauge work? i've never heard of one...
i put arp rod bolts in mine, i simply followed arp's advice and used the moly on the threads before assembly. i made sure to use a dial-style torque wrench instead of the click-style for greater accuracy. i'm trying to make this motor last, so can u tell me the process for using the stretch gauge? where can i find one and how much are they?

2muchboost2blow

also another tip make sure not to forget the thrust bearings, and the little canals in the bearings face away from the crank girdle wall. (face outwards)

other than that its pretty straightfoward, just rings, rods, and mains. make sure to check for tolerances with plastigauge and only touch the bearings on the side (so not to get oils off your hands on the surfaces). dip all the bearings in engine oil before assembling them. i prefer engine oil over assembly lube because assembly lube stays in the motor and can gunk things up, the engine is made to have oil lubricate it so thats what i use to assemble it also.

not tips from a professional, but from someone who has done it a few times before.

also the block is going to have to be machined to accept the h-beam rods. the cylinder walls need to be notched so the rods will clear them. you should also get the cylinders honed while it's there to ensure the rings seat properly. if you've got the money, have them balance and micropolish the crank.

EnzoSpeed

The stretch gauge fits over the ends of the bolt and pinches it like a micrometer. It measures how much the bolt stretches after you tighten it.

At first I torqued my rod bolts to spec, which was 24 ft-lbs with lube. But when I measured stretch at that setting, it was only about .004". To get to the .0055" stretch I wanted, I had to torque them closer to 28 ft-lbs.

So the torque spec is NOT a good way to tighten the bolts. It leaves them undertightened. And undertightened rod bolts will back themselves out over time. A rod bolt is like a spring - it stretches when you tighten it, and shrinks back when you loosen it. Undertightening the bolt means you won't maximze the bolt's clamping ability and overtightening it will permanently stretch and ruin it. It's really important to measure stretch! A Proform gauge is only $40 - well worth it.

EnzoSpeed

Oh yeah - FILE YOUR RINGS SLOWLY! It's super easy to overfile them.

blaze the chemi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EnzoSpeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh yeah - FILE YOUR RINGS SLOWLY! It's super easy to overfile them.</TD></TR></TABLE>

^^^^That is also the most PITA job. Patience is key. And be slow. It just took me a month (4 weekends) to do the job and I finished yesterday. Be organized, be ****, and think. Take breaks too to think about what is coming up. And keep that Helms close. Good luck! It's rewarding when you crank that engine up and it runs.

EnzoSpeed

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2muchboost2blow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also another tip make sure not to forget the thrust bearings, and the little canals in the bearings face away from the crank girdle wall. (face outwards) </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, this is very important - thrust washers with groved sides OUT. If you put them in backwards, your crank will seize.