After six grueling months, I finally started my new motor yesterday. I was so excited - no CELs, no oil leaks, no coolant leaks, no nothing; it seemed to run perfectly.

After the first initial startup yesterday, my oil pressure showed 50psi, then dropped to about 20psi once it warmed up. I monitored it for a while and it seemed to be steady at 20psi. So feeling confident, I spent a few hours tweaking things - setting the timing, bleeding the radiator, fighting with uberdata. By midnight, I was tired of trying to set the idle, so I called it a night.

Now here's the problem - I go out today to tackle the idle again, but when I start the car, the oil pressure shows 90psi????? I let it warm up and it only dropped to about 72psi.

Now granted, I'm using an electric Autometer gauge, but it's brand new. Could it be broken? I'm praying to God that there is no internal problem . I know a bad pressure relief valve can do this, but the oil pump is new. Actually, everything is new. Does a spun bearing cause high pressure? I just changed the oil (and filter) and it poured out looking perfectly clear; it could have passed for new oil. I'm using "Coastal ND 30" oil.

Another concern I have is the noise the motor makes. It makes a weird clicking noise that sounds like it's coming from the valve train. I pulled off the valve cover, but everything looks fine (i.e. no metal shavings or dropped valves). I'm thinking maybe the new head just sounds different. It's a fully built JG head (except for the stock cam). I set the valve lash to factory specs.

 

No replies? C'mon you jerks, don't make me come out there. Earl - you want me to start with the emails again?! Didn't think so .

 

clicking noise: LMA's possibly?

 

^^^They click? Is that normal operation?


I just buzzed out to PepBoys and bought a mech oil gauge. It also reads 75psi

 

Bump

I think I'm going to cry. I just dumped my life savings/college money into this car and I think my motor is f*cked

What would cause such insanely high oil pressure?

 

the guage sending unit could be wired backwards... the clicking could be injectors.. they click alot

 

My pressure was about 20 psi yesterday. Now it's about 80 psi. I used both a mechanical and electrical gauge to confirm that the pressure is indeed 80 psi. Also, an extremely small oil leak just developed at the oil take-off fitting which also leads me to believe that the pressuse has drastically increased since yesterday.


Forget the clicking noise. Why is my pressure so high? I just drained a cup of oil out of the pan and examined it. There are no traces of metal. HELP.

 

let it warm up warm up . even when my car was at operating temp but not being driven , idle would be 50psi o nmy d series.

 

Holy crap, I figured out the problem. As it turns out, I'm just a tool . Dang, that's the second time this week that I've embarassed myself on H-T.


Anyway, the problem is the ND-30 oil I'm using. I guess since it's colder today, it just takes longer to warm up. <U>Insanely longer</U>.


Here is a breakdown of how the oil psi just changed when I went out and started it again:

Startup: 85psi
2mins: 70psi
5mins: 70psi
8mins: 65psi
10mins: 65psi
15mins: 60psi
20mins: 28psi

So it took 20 minutes of idling for the oil to heat up . That's pretty insane. I wonder why it only took five minutes yesterday?! That ND-30 stuff is wicked - it pours just like honey. I really really hope it's the stuff I'm supposed to be using.


**edit**
For the record, this is in a d16y8 motor. I set all the bearing clearances really loose in preparation for my SC50 and I still had the high pressure. With all-motor bearing clearances, I can only imagine how high the pressure will go with ND-30.

 

thats perfectly fine

 

Am I supposed to go out and drive/tune while using the ND-30? Or am I supposed to switch to 10w-30 non-synth before I start putting load on the engine?

I'm so leary of driving around on oil that's "Not for use in motor vehicles" according to the disclaimer.

 

i started mine for 30 min on the 30 weight , drained it , put 5w30 non synthetic in for the first 500 miles then changed it

 

Hmm... Well that's what I initially thought I was supposed to do. Then I read through the archives and came to the conclusion that I was supposed to drive the first few hundred miles on ND-30.

I've already started the car on ND-30, drained it, and re-filled with more ND-30. Should I drain it a second time and re-fill with normal multi-visc oil before driving?

 

Get rid of the ND30 and put some non synthetic 5-30 for 500 miles and then make the switch to your oil of choice. No reason to use ND30 that I know about.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EnzoSpeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hmm... Well that's what I initially thought I was supposed to do. Then I read through the archives and came to the conclusion that I was supposed to drive the first few hundred miles on ND-30.

I've already started the car on ND-30, drained it, and re-filled with more ND-30. Should I drain it a second time and re-fill with normal multi-visc oil before driving?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes throw in 5w30 non synthetic in

 

Alright, thanks guys

This brings me up to about ten gallons of used oil that I need to drop off at Autozone.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get rid of the ND30 and put some non synthetic 5-30 for 500 miles and then make the switch to your oil of choice. No reason to use ND30 that I know about.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ive heard the non detergent oil will help seat the rings faster. i dont know how true this is, but this is what full time engine builders/ machinests have told me...

 

I am using ND-30 in my engine right now for breakin. I haven't seen/had any problems due to the oil yet. I plan on changing it after 15min of running.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get rid of the ND30 and put some non synthetic 5-30 for 500 miles and then make the switch to your oil of choice. No reason to use ND30 that I know about.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would recommend this as well.

 

ya i wouldnt drive on the nd30 because it keeps contaminates within the oil . its a very rough oil thats why they say it seats the rings faster . i wouldnt even rev the car up on the stuff .the first start my motor saw was on nd30 , idled for 30 min then switched to castrol 5w30. then started the break in process.